Have you run a check on your System files yet, to see whether your OS has some corruption.

• Click Search button and type Command Prompt
• From the results, right click on the Command Prompt icon, and select Run as administrator
• A Command Window will open.
• Copy paste the command below into it, then press Enter
• Dism /Online /Cleanup-Image /ScanHealth
• Once DISM has finished running, if it finds anything, then run the command ....
• Dism /Online /Cleanup-Image /RestoreHealth
  • 
    
    In all honesty I believe your problem is more likely to be hardware/driver based than a fault with your System, but as you hadn't listed it as something you'd checked, it seemed best to check.

 

I seem to remember a similar fault on another laptop from a year or so back on TSF ... NOT an HP though.

I had the feeling back then that the problem was fan related, depending upon the point where the fan stopped regarding the magnetic polarity and Hall Sensor that would trigger the next polarity change.
If you have access to a new fan that works normally and is proven to be working properly, I would suggest swapping it out. I suspect though, since many have had similar problems, that it might be a manufacturing problem that doesn't show up in normal tests. I haven't had any of these fans come into my possession, so I am only working on general facts that have come my way in conjunction with the principles of design and working of these fans.

Edit. Whilst designs change constantly in the electronics industry ... the basic way that devices work stay the same .. here's a description that might help you understand the intricacies of fan movement ...

How PC Fans Work

PCB Heaven! Electronic theory, schematic circuits and PIC tutorials

www.pcbheaven.com

 

Thank you both for responding quickly, and with better information than just the standard "try restarting and factory reset" that I've been getting elsewhere.


Gary;
I had not tried that, I have done multiple virus and malware scans, all came up with either nothing or something so small it wasn't even worth mentioning. I did reinstall the latest version of windows, but not the whole thing. The thing it said at the end was "The component store is repairable. The operation completed successfully." I took that to mean no issues found, but I figured while the fans are operating (at this moment...), I will just have it do the repair anyway. Afterward it said: “The restore operation completed successfully. The operation completed successfully.”

I agree that this is indeed hardware or driver based. I believe it has nothing to do with my OS as it will sometimes turn on without the fans turning on. Unfortunately, I have run out of ideas on how to solve this in the BIOS. I also have no idea what piece of hardware is causing the problem, nor how to test without trial and error. I suppose it can be the temperature sensor, but it's still reading accurate temperatures regardless of the fans, so I doubt it is that. That, to me, leaves the motherboard. I'm worried that if it is the motherboard, it might just be better to just get a new laptop... which is not in the budget for another 3 years or so.


Done Fishin;
The fans I have in the laptop now are new. They were replaced after my first dozen or so attempts at solving this as though it was a software issue. Not only have the new fans not fixed the issue, the issue's 'behavior' has not changed. I have confidence that from the port the fans are in perfect working condition.

As far as the fans tripping a sensor; I haven't seen anything that would indicate that's what's happening. There appears to be absolutely no pattern to when it turns on or off. When the fans are running, I have taken them from idle (2000 RPM) to max (5400 RPM) and they seem to run quite smoothly without hiccups. But when it's having issues, it can happen at any speed as well. The scariest times are when I'm pushing the computer, so it's revved up pretty high, then it just goes silent. That's when I know I have to close basically everything as fast as possible and put it to sleep or shut it down fast. Since the problem got to be more consistent, I have made sure to overclock the fans and try to keep the temperature down below 100F (37C). The fans may be louder, but it makes it so 1, I can hear when they stop, and 2, it gives me more time to react.


For a general question, directed in anyone that may know, I am currently open to the idea of forcing the fans to go even if it means I have to manually control them from here on out. Does anyone know of a way, short from strapping external fans to the vents, to achieve this?

 

Let me fill you in on my thought process. Here is a schematic of the motor.

we have the motor supplied by the 5volt rail.

In order for the fan to start spinning the Control signal must go High which allows 5 volts to feed to both transistors through both sets of coils. Depending upon the position of the magnet to the Hall sensor, the tacho signal might be High or Low. If the tacho signal is High, the transistor on the left will turn on taking current through the coils to Zero, and forcing the transistor on the right off. Current through the coils creates an electromagnet field, where the magnet is found. The magnet is a bar that is rolled into a circle connecting as close as possible the North to the South pole. As this join passes the Hall sensor, a pulse is emitted. As the pulse goes high the 1st transistor conducts creating the magnetic field in the 1st set of coils. As the pulse fades away the 1st transistor will turn off allowing the 5V feed to turn on the 2nd transistor, creating a magnetic field through those windings. As the coils are switched in rotation creating different magnetic fields, the magnet will be forced to move as 2 North pole magnetic fields fight each other.

This assumes that the control signal is being switched properly from OFF to ON.
It also assumes that the magnet behind the fan blades has sufficient magnetic field to trigger the Hall sensor as it passes and that the current passing through the control transistor is suffient to create a strong field through the coils. The coils, in each pair, will be split sitting diagonally on opposite sides of the board, across the axle of the motor.

This all needs to be verified before deciding that the fan and motor are not to blame. Current methods of testing dictate that only a percentage of motors need to be tested to see if they function correctly and considering that I have been seeing quite a few issues with laptops and intermittently working fans in various modes, I think it is quite possible that there is a design issue which may even include the use of Lead Free solder, which has a tendancy towards growing whiskers towards other points of solder.

 

so, if I'm understanding you right (my apologies if I don't), you are saying that the sensor is with the fan itself? I'm more of a tech guy (troubleshooting, building, etc) than an electrician/electrical engineer. It sounds like you're describing what amounts to a flaw which makes a can basically stall out due to a 'misfire'?

I've got a GPU and CPU fan that are cutting out both at the same time. The computer is also registering them at 0 RPM when they cut out. So if I am understanding this (I am trying) then I have a few more questions.

Wouldn't this just end up being a straight up manufacturer's defect?
Wouldn't the act of swapping out the fans correct this?
if they are contained within the fan itself, why would both CPU and GPU turn on and off at the same time? i didn't think there was one slave and one master as they were installed independently... they just came as a set.

Thank you for your patience.

 

I suggest you read the link I quoted on How PC fans work ...

But ... the fan is not just the blades, the blades sit on a motor attached to the axle. Between them there is a control board and on that control board is the circuit, or one very similar to it, shown in the schematic above.

In a 2 wire Fan there is no control circuit. Just a straight "give it volts" and it will run!

In a 3 wire circuit the third wire is used to feed back the fan speed.

In a 4 wire fan the 4th wire is the control which can start / stop the fan whilst monitoring the speed.

There is also a situation where if both transistors were to be half energised then the fan would remain locked, unable to move. This is why I say the problem might be design. In other instances of this problem, where it has been said the fan stops moving, it was also locked into place and not easy to move. First time I saw this effect was large motors on Mainframe magnetic tape units, and was deliberate to stop tape movement whilst not being read or written to.
Exactly why this is happening on PC or laptop fans I do not know ... but I suspect it has to do with the circuit design, perhaps a component not working to its ideal characteristic, charge building up, current leakage through a device where no current should flow. Not having access to any of the devices where this happens, it really is difficult to prove what is happening.
If eberything is working according tο design and theory, there should be no problem. Normally a replacement New fan should cure the problem if the problem is the fan. But if the problem is fan design ...

 

I apologize, I missed the link on your initial response.

Makes sense now on what you are saying. Mine are the 4 wire variety, with a 4 wire port. I know you said "I haven't had any of these fans come into my possession, so I am only working on general facts that have come my way in conjunction with the principles of design and working of these fans." but I'm curious, if these lock into place would they make any noise/vibrations? I'm asking because when the fans are off it is silent and if they were to make noise/vibrations, it'll help me with diagnosing.

 

Yes they could have a vibration if the magnetics fields were fighting each other ... and if you have the laptop open and the fan within reach, you will find you cannot assist the fan to move in either direction BUT KEEP YOUR FINGERS AWAY FROM THE FAN BLADES ... take a plastic straw and try pushing both directions.
I would put the vibration down to the transistors driving the coils whilst the join in the magnet hovers close to the Hall Sensor. As the "join" moves it will be triggering, via the Hall Sensor, the transistors on/off very quickly causing an oscillation but no circular movement.

 

Just so you know, the message ... "The component store is repairable. The operation completed successfully." ... meant that there were corruptions present, and you needed to run the RestoreHealth command (which fortunately you did).

As with so many things Microsoft, the messages they give are somewhat ambiguous and often require interpretation.

 

Note that after running Dism /Online /Cleanup-Image /RestoreHealth, you now need to run

SFC /SCANNOW

Both of these commands should be run from an elevated Terminal -- right-click Start and choose Terminal (Admin). The former command repairs the the component store and the latter repairs the Windows install by checking system files against the now good component store.

If you are having problems with the fan profile you may need to reset your BIOS. You might also replace the CMOS battery in case changes you are making are not being saved correctly. If resetting the BIOS doesn't work, and if you have an older version, download and install the latest version from the manufacturer's website. I see that you may have installed the latest BIOS but double-check. It wouldn't hurt to re-install the chipset driver as well.

Info:

The Windows Component Store, located in the C:\Windows\WinSxS directory, is a critical system folder that stores essential files for Windows functionality, including support for features, updates, and system recovery. The sfc /scannow command in Windows is used to scan and repair corrupted or missing protected system files. It's often used in conjunction with the DISM tool to ensure the Windows component store (WinSxS) is healthy, which is necessary for SFC to function correctly. Essentially, DISM repairs the component store, and then SFC can use the healthy component store to repair system files.

Resources:

https://support.hp.com/us-en/drivers/omen-17.3-inch-gaming-laptop-pc-17-cm2000/model/2101638760?sku=7L8G1UA

 

Note that after running Dism /Online /Cleanup-Image /RestoreHealth, you now need to run

SFC /SCANNOW

Not entirely true, but it is the normal procedure if corruptions are found.

DISM repairs corruptions in both the Registry, and the file system, using a "master" copy of the OS sourced online directly from a Micosoft server.

SFC only repairs file corruptions, using "duplicate" files contained in your System. It generally does a more thorough job of file repair than DISM, which is why you run it.

Without looking at, and analysing what corruptions DISM found, it's not clear whether the corruptions might not have been just related to the Registry or not, so running SFC might not be necessary, however since it's quicker and easier to run SFC than go line by line through a long DISM log, that's generally what you do.

 

Done_Fishin:
I disassembled things enough to check over stuff another time and do a power/hard reset. I didn’t think it would work, but since I hadn’t tried it yet I checked that box off the list. While it was all exposed, I tested it out. The fans are capable of rotating freely while not on. No vibrations or sounds. There’s just now power being sent to them from what it seems.


Gary:
I agree, it would have been better if it said something like “things need repaired.” Unfortunately it did not work, but thank you for your help.


MPR:
The scannow will take time and effort on the computer, so I will have to wait until the fans are working again before I can do it.

I already reset the BIOS, along with the hard reset (as mentioned above) but I don’t have a replacement CMOS battery. I already spent money on fans that I didn’t need, I’m not exactly thrilled with the idea of spending more money unless there was a definitive way of knowing that a specific part will indeed solve the issue.

As for the link, I downloaded the BIOS updated driver from there and it immediately said it wasn’t compatible. I will work on the scannow, driver updates, and DISM once the fans operate again and let you know how it goes.


Thank you all again for the help so far
Indy

 

As for the link, I downloaded the BIOS updated driver from there and it immediately said it wasn’t compatible.

The HP link I gave you is for the system you listed

OMEN by HP Laptop 17-cm2047nr (7L8G1UA)

If it's not the right one, use the HP search tool to go to the correct download site for your specific computer.

https://support.hp.com/us-en/drivers/laptops

 

MPR:
I haven't been able to do the SFC yet. When the fans finally kicked on I updated the drivers first. It seemed to go well, I was able to restart the computer 4 times and the fans kicked on all 4 times without fail. My hopes surged. It would turn on appropriately every time I had it go to sleep and wake back up. Went to bed, got up, and it still worked without a hitch.

Then I tried to get on it. Then the fans started cutting out again. So I will scratch that off the list as a possible solution and try for the next thing once the fans turn back on again...

 

Have you monitored your temperatures? The fans may be cutting off because they are simply not needed. Also, check the fan-control software that came with your computer. Most have an option to keep the fans on all the time if you wish.

HWMONITOR | Softwares | CPUID

HWMonitor for Windows® x86/x64 is a hardware monitoring program that reads PC systems main health sensors : voltages, temperatures, powers, currents, fans speed, utilizations, clock speeds ... The program handles : CPU and GPU-level hardware monitoring...

www.cpuid.com

 

If there was a way to show you a video of what it looks and sounds like when it happens I would gladly send a 30 second one to you. Shows fan speed and temps registered, as well as it cutting out. I'll look into the link you provided

 

You could possibly upload a video file to .... WeTransfer or TransferKit or SendFileOnline .... and then post a link to it here.