Weird Door Lock Problem w/Viper 5901

4479 Views 10 Replies 3 Participants Last post by lcurle, Jul 20, 2010

Cobraguy

Discussion Starter · Jul 13, 2010

I installed a 5901 in a 2005 CTS-V and this thing has been kicking my butt. Not necessarily the install, but all the programming etc. Right now, we are fighting a stupid little problem.

When we hit the arm button, the doors lock just fine and the system arms. About a second later, the doors all unlock. System stays armed...and in fact, if you open the door, the alarm goes off. You hit the lock one more time and the doors all lock and stay locked this time.

Here is what we have. We have a new model 5901 with the 18 pin harness. We have an XK09 with DPLKGM firmware updated to version 2.0 with the XKLOADER2. The door locks are all handled through the data line with the XK09. We have 530T window modules...one in each door. We have the auto up wires (orange) all hooked to the alarm so they all roll up when armed. We have the vent/open wires (red w/stripe) all wired to aux 1 and programmed to open with aux one by timing that function to 'on' for 15 seconds. One issue we first had was when we opened the windows with the alarm set, it would set off the factory alarm only. We got past that by taking the gray wire from the driver's window module (530T) and hooking it to the green wire in the going into the factory driver's door module. This is a wire from the door key switch that disarms the factory alarm when you unlock the door with a key. This stopped the factory alarm going off.

If anyone has any ideas as to why this thing is unlocking a second after you arm it, it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for taking time to read this.

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jaggerwild

· #2 · Jul 13, 2010

Cobraguy said:
I installed a 5901 in a 2005 CTS-V and this thing has been kicking my butt. Not necessarily the install, but all the programming etc. Right now, we are fighting a stupid little problem.

When we hit the arm button, the doors lock just fine and the system arms. About a second later, the doors all unlock. System stays armed...and in fact, if you open the door, the alarm goes off. You hit the lock one more time and the doors all lock and stay locked this time.

Here is what we have. We have a new model 5901 with the 18 pin harness. We have an XK09 with DPLKGM firmware updated to version 2.0 with the XKLOADER2. The door locks are all handled through the data line with the XK09. We have 530T window modules...one in each door. We have the auto up wires (orange) all hooked to the alarm so they all roll up when armed. We have the vent/open wires (red w/stripe) all wired to aux 1 and programmed to open with aux one by timing that function to 'on' for 15 seconds. One issue we first had was when we opened the windows with the alarm set, it would set off the factory alarm only. We got past that by taking the gray wire from the driver's window module (530T) and hooking it to the green wire in the going into the factory driver's door module. This is a wire from the door key switch that disarms the factory alarm when you unlock the door with a key. This stopped the factory alarm going off.

If anyone has any ideas as to why this thing is unlocking a second after you arm it, it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for taking time to read this.

It sounds like you have it set to pulse two times to lock the doors, but your saying they do lock witch has me wondering also.
I have seen similar issues on GM cars and the wires that were taped into where the problem, so I'd suggest re-checking them first. I have often found the same wires code's coming from the car but having two sets of wires inside the car. Make sure if the data module has settings that they are RESET, witch may require a power cycle of the module.

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Cobraguy

Discussion Starter · #3 · Jul 14, 2010

No taped wires jaggerwild. Everything...and I mean everything...was soldered. The door locks are on the dataline anyway from the XK09.

Single pulse setting. I'm going to reload the file from the Bitwriter and make sure though. This is a weird one.

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jaggerwild

· #4 · Jul 14, 2010

Cobraguy said:
No taped wires jaggerwild. Everything...and I mean everything...was soldered. The door locks are on the dataline anyway from the XK09.

Single pulse setting. I'm going to reload the file from the Bitwriter and make sure though. This is a weird one.

Can you disconnect the interface for locks, lock the doors, then arm the alarm and see if this is still happening? That would isolate it to either the car or the interface unit.

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jaggerwild

· #5 · Jul 14, 2010

Cobraguy said:
No taped wires jaggerwild. Everything...and I mean everything...was soldered. The door locks are on the dataline anyway from the XK09.

Single pulse setting. I'm going to reload the file from the Bitwriter and make sure though. This is a weird one.

You have a bit writer but you didn't mention using direct wire.
http://www.directed.com/Support/InstallerSupport.aspx

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Cobraguy

Discussion Starter · #6 · Jul 16, 2010

jaggerwild said:
You have a bit writer but you didn't mention using direct wire.
http://www.directed.com/Support/InstallerSupport.aspx

Well, that's because Directed won't support me because I won't stock their product. I'm a tech...not a salesman. I don't want to stock their products. I'll leave that up to others who specialize in inventories. I'll buy from them. But since I don't buy and stock inventory, they refuse to help me. I'm semi-retired and do this because I love it. I don't want to be married to it though.

I did find out that tech tip 1923 from Directed should help me out. Now I need to figure out a way to get my hands on it!

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jaggerwild

· #7 · Jul 17, 2010

Cobraguy said:
Well, that's because Directed won't support me because I won't stock their product. I'm a tech...not a salesman. I don't want to stock their products. I'll leave that up to others who specialize in inventories. I'll buy from them. But since I don't buy and stock inventory, they refuse to help me. I'm semi-retired and do this because I love it. I don't want to be married to it though.

I did find out that tech tip 1923 from Directed should help me out. Now I need to figure out a way to get my hands on it!

Cool!
i was just asking, my old boss had it made life easier on us techs. So you buy your product through another, you might ask them to go half's or what not.

What does the tech tip say? I don't have access to it I don't do installs any more, I went into slot machines. My back can't take getting under dashboards, I do love the work!! Just seems the shops don't want to pay my worth, so i just do installs for friends and family.

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Cobraguy

Discussion Starter · #8 · Jul 18, 2010

I hear that! First thing I do if I'm going to be under a dash is pull the seats. Period. Don't even think about it. Makes life so much easier.

I've got a few feelers out for the tech tip I need. I also can run down to a retailer who is also and installer and see if they will get it for me. I haven't bought any Viper stuff from them, but I spent thousands on a home theater with them. Let's see if they want any more of my business!

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jaggerwild

· #9 · Jul 19, 2010

Cobraguy said:
I hear that! First thing I do if I'm going to be under a dash is pull the seats. Period. Don't even think about it. Makes life so much easier.

I've got a few feelers out for the tech tip I need. I also can run down to a retailer who is also and installer and see if they will get it for me. I haven't bought any Viper stuff from them, but I spent thousands on a home theater with them. Let's see if they want any more of my business!

Yeah on the Chrysler Concords i used to pull the whole dashboard to install a remote stater in it, it was way faster as there's no space under dash to work in.

I know some times there are several different interface modules, have you considered another? Even if you have to buy another, usually you will end up using the one you have left over. I had a link to an online place that sells tons of them, and starter units.
You may try contacting Lee, who is on here also. He has a shop, in Kansas city. He may or may not be able to help you, i know hes in high end mode lately as I see him posting on my FB about events. I'll message him with this link, see if hes around.

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jaggerwild

· #10 · Jul 19, 2010

Here's a link to his FB, tell him i sent ya from here. He may take a while to reply, but its worth a shot.
http://www.facebook.com/home.php?#!/profile.php?id=100000326516085

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lcurle

· #11 · Jul 20, 2010

POWER LOCK ORANGE/BLACK (TYPE B) @ DRIVERS DOOR LOCK SWITCH in DOOR
POWER UNLOCK ORANGE/BLACK (TYPE B) @ DRIVERS DOOR LOCK SWITCH in DOOR

“Type B” Door Lock Test (Most Imports, some newer Fords)
Probe both door lock wires going to the door lock switch these wires are usually located in the driver’s kick panel. Attach one end of your test light to +12V using the vehicle’s door lock controls activate the lock then the unlock testing both wires one at a time. If the test light illuminates when you probe the lock and the unlock wires your vehicle has a “Type B” door locking system. Make sure to mark which wire is lock and unlock.

From the keyless entry module, the Blue/Black it unlock and the Green/black is lock (most of the time)

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