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Discussion Starter #1
This is an older model (MD320AV) that hasn't been started in 10+ years or so. It has never been used heavily when it was in use.

Here's what I did so far:
  • drained the old fuel that was still in there, replaced it with a fresh 40:1 mix (it says 40:1 on the fuel tank)
  • replaced the fuel lines (they broke into small pieces when I simply grabbed them) + the fuel filter in the fuel tank
  • changed the purging bulb (aka priming bulb)
  • replaced the spark plug (multimeter gave me suspect readings on the old one)
  • for the moment I removed the air filter, to make sure that's not an issue
Had hoped it would start after that, but it doesn't. I know next to nothing about 2-stroke engines (always used electrical tools), so I'm not even sure I'm trying the right starting sequence.

Here's what I do to start it:
  • put the choke on the 'snowflake' setting, i.e. cold engine
  • turn the on-off switch to 'on'
  • not sure if this step is correct: I push on the two paddles (throttle) and then lock the slider, so that the two paddles remain pushed in
  • push the purge bulb a couple times (I do notice that air bubbles appear, there are none in the line coming from the fuel tank, but there are in the fuel line that goes from the carb into the purge bulb -- not sure if this is normal)
  • pull the starter rope 4 times or so
  • put the choke on the "1/2" setting
  • pull the starter rope a couple more times
  • no engine start (nor does it 'almost' start)
I've put some pictures of the locking slider and of the air bubbles here:

I know it could be my carburator (e.g. the diaphragm being stiff), or that maybe no spark is generated when pulling the rope, and probably a million other things. But if I'm not doing the right starting sequence it's all for naught :).

Is what I'm doing correct? If so, what's the next thing I could check?
 

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Moderator, Automotive Team
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next step is to change the diaphragm in the carb and clean teh rust oee the flywheen and coil if that doesnt do it oull the plug and leave it connected to teh spark plug wire, have an assistant pull the sorc as you hole it firmely against teh metal part of the engine with INSULATED PLIERS!!!!!!!!! trust me, if theres spark and you touch it bare handed test done, and when your dpont screaming and shakeig your hand to get feeling back you'll know the coil works......I speak from experiencs
 

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Team Manager, Microsoft Support
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What Wolf is saying is, you don't want to be the ground. 🔑 Remember Ben Franklin.
 

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Moderator, Automotive Team
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What Wolf is saying is, you don't want to be the ground. 🔑 Remember Ben Franklin.

LOl your right, I was hileing a coil wire on a Briggs 5 hp mower engine and found out the hard way that the coil worked LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks a lot!

So I tested the spark plug as you said, thought it didn't work, but when I tried it again night I could clearly see a spark.

The diaphragm in the carb seems to be mostly OK: it's still flexible. It does make a very very light 'clicking' noise when pushing it. I've ordered a kit to change it, but I'm not too hopeful that will fix it.

I have a couple questions, if you guys don't mind:
  1. When I unscrew the spark plug and put fuel+oil directly under it, screw it back in and try starting the machine, it still doesn't work. So it doesn't seem like the carb is the (only) problem -- shouldn't this procedure start it, since I have spark and fuel+oil?

  2. When I put fuel underneath the spark plug, it doesn't seem to stay there; is it possible that it runs off somewhere?

  3. I saw on Youtube that some people mention having to pull the starter rope 100+ times, is that really something I need to try?? As an alternative, they put a drill on it and start it this way. But that seems like a great way to ruin my drill, especially since I don't even know if the weedeater starter runs clockwise or anti-clockwise...

  4. I haven't tried adjusting the carb high/low fuel settings, is that something that could cause it not to start?
 

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Moderator, Automotive Team
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Not sure about your particular model but my Sanapper weedeater came with a drill adapter that ratchets one way ONLY, Don't try a drill start without a device like that or you WILL total your drill
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Not sure about your particular model but my Sanapper weedeater came with a drill adapter that ratchets one way ONLY, Don't try a drill start without a device like that or you WILL total your drill
Thanks for the advice (y) No such device on this old model -- wish it did :). Yep I agree the risk is a bit too high, although on Youtube there are plenty of people doing electric starts/drill starts, there's a couple things that can go very wrong.
 

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Yea I yanked and yanked and yanked the pull cord on that weed eater till I decided to try that, works great, of course in quality, of craftsmanship when I bought that ,juts like 1975 I have a 5 year old McCollah saw that was " too heavy" so my dad got me a homelite , quality is where the old McCullah was still running years after the Homelite broke beyond repair ( about three weeks)
 
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