"Hours" really should not affect temps that much - except for big massive devices and components like hard drives and the big transformers and capacitors in power supplies. But even then, we are talking about 20 - 30 minutes, 1 hour at most, not "hours".
Processors cool down almost as quickly as they heat up. Heat sinks, by their very nature, do not retain heat and quickly dissipate the heat into the surrounding air which is [hopefully]
flowing past.
Most programs are not very disk intensive. For most users, the drive is worked hardest at boot and the beginning of the "user session" when the user starts all their normal programs. But even if disk intensive, there "should" be enough air flowing over the drive(s) to prevent them from heating up the whole computer. In any case, the drive will not keep getting warmer and warmer. After about 15 minutes, it should stabilize. SSDs can get pretty warm, but because of their size, not impact case cooling significantly. But also, because the mass and composition of SSDs, they cool down rapidly too.
PSUs can get pretty warm, but they have their own fans directly pushing their heat out the back of the case. In fact, all top mounted PSUs and many bottom mounted PSUs help pull additional cool air into the case.
Your graphics solution may or may not be helping here. Most dual slot cards vent most of their generated heat out the back of the computer - a good thing. But all single slot cards, and some dual slot cards dump the heat back into the case - not so good.
You can upgrade the cooler anytime you want. You will need to clean the CPU and apply a fresh new layer of TIM at that time anyway.
As far as overclocking now, not sure I would if you temps are climbing into the 80s and 90s now. You can tell by the last line in my sig I take heat seriously.
The problem with heat in electronics is it is like loud noises on our ears, or sunburns on our skin. The permanent damage may not be immediately apparent, but it
IS there and
IS accumulative. So even if your temps remain below the "hot" threshold, running components for extended periods at "very very warm" temperatures
WILL increase the aging process of those devices, shortening their lifespans. Now whether that results in failure before you would normally upgrade/replace the device is anyone's guess.
All I can say is I don't like my temps to sit above 60°C for longer than a few seconds. When they do, that is generally a sign to me I need to clean my filters.
My current ambient should be 62F (it's really humid so it feels a tad warmer).
You must live in the far North (like Canada) or southern hemisphere where it is approaching colder winter months. Normal "room" temps are around 72°F. If your computer temps are that high when your ambient temps are that cool, you will definitely be in trouble in warmer months. Humidity does not affect the temperatures of electronics.
If you look at the Intel ARK for your processor, the
3770K, note the maximum Tcase temp allowed is 67.4°C. Tcase (Case Temperature) is the maximum temperature allowed at the processor Integrated Heat Spreader (IHS). Unfortunately, this does not relate directly to the internal or core temps most monitoring programs display. And there is no set formula to convert Tcase temps to core temps.
There is, however [more or less] a general consensus that core temps can be 10 to 15°C warmer than Tcase before the CPU starts throttling down as a self-preservation measure.
So, assuming the best, 67.4 + 15 = 82.4°C. So if me, I would not allow the core temps of that 3770K to exceed 82.4°C. And if I could not keep my temps below that with normal clocking, I sure would not overclock - period.
