[scotch740]

OK I just built a comp with all new parts.
SPECS
MB- Intel DG965RY
CPU- Core 2 Duo 2.13
RAM- Corsair value select 2 x 512 DDR2 667 PC2 5300
HD-Wester Digital 80GB SATA
Video Card- (On its way) using On board Video now
CD/DVD- LG combo drive
Power Supply- Sunbeam PSU-BKS580-US ATX 580W

Problem
So I started it up after installing everying, formated the HD and was installing windows. Then the screen went white in the middle of the windows install and just sat there. I restarted and reformated again, then in the middle of reformatting the computer just cut off. Switched the PS off and on trying to get it to start and finaly it did but now I do not get any video output (monitor dosent think its hooked up, but it is). My power switch and reset switch do nothing in the way to turn the computer off OR on, I have tryed unpluging them and still no difference. I have to cut off the PS to turn off the computer and when I turn the PS on the computer starts up by itself, (fans, HD, CD/DVD all working and I have a led on the MB that turns on). But no Video output.

Things I have checked
My rams timing is 5-5-5-15 and MB requires 5-5-5 or 6-6-6. I checked my power switch and it makes contact only when the button is depressed which is the same as my old computer. I have tryed the reset jumper but got nothing.

Any suggestions would be greatly appriciated.

 

[dai]

http://www.techsupportforum.com/showthread.php?t=107466
does it switch on when you touch the 2 pins the front case button connects to on the m/b with a small screwdriver or paperclip fora fraction of a second

 

[scotch740]

http://www.techsupportforum.com/showthread.php?t=107466
does it switch on when you touch the 2 pins the front case button connects to on the m/b with a small screwdriver or paperclip fora fraction of a second

The problem is not it wont turn on, but that it wont turn OFF. As soon as i turn on the powersupply switch the computer starts up (without me touching the cases on/off switch), but when it starts up I do not have video output. I tested the switch and it makes contact when pressed so I dont believe using a screw driver will work, however I will try that when I get home.

 

[Tumbleweed36]

Hi,

The power supply most likely is a real problem with this one. Sorry, but you just can't buy a decent 580 watt power supply for $22.00. A good 580 watt supply at this time (and they are cheap right now) will cost a minimum of $75 to $90. If you follow the link dai gave you and find out exactly what wattage you need, then maybe you can find one to swap in to give it a try.

 

[scotch740]

Went through that link and ran the calculator and what not, came up with needing 360W for my system. I know I should have a better PS but with an advertised 580W I would think this should cover me pretty well:4-dontkno

Why would the Power supply cause my comp to not turn off? I will try a different PS when I get home, but I fear this is more motherboard/ram/cpu related.

EDIT: I was actualy thinking about replacing the PS cause its the loudest part of my system which I was trying to keep quiet since my last comp had 6 80mm fans cooling my comp + raid. But I'll look around the PS forum for help on that.

 

[Tumbleweed36]

Hi,

Please read the link dai gave you before you get involved with working with another power supply. There is no guarantee this is the problem, but if you have a way to try another one, that would be a quick check to see if that was the issue.

Don't forget if you came up with 360, then you have to add 30%, so your total would be more like 468 as your bare minimal needs. That could be quite a difference.

Another thought before you get too far into this baby. You might want to take a double check that you have the front panel header connected correctly if the switch is not working as it should. So easy to get something on the wrong place. I always blow up that front panel header picture so I can be sure it is on the right place for each wire.

Additionally, you might want to boogie in to the BIOS setup menu and make sure your video (if you can get that far or see it) is set for the onboard video to work. If you can't get that far (and it worked earlier), then clear the cmos and see if it comes back up to default settings. It won't harm anything, and if you can't see anything, you can't lose anything.

Note: If you want quiet in a power supply, the Seasonic line is about as quiet as it gets. Just thought I would throw that in.

 

[scotch740]

WOW thanks for all the quick replys this is a really great site.

Yeah I hadn't added the %30 but I knew it would still be well under the 580. I do have an old PS my brother replaced at home cuase it was too loud, ill give that a try cause it would be really quick.

Im pretty sure I have the switches wired correctly, I double checked before the first startup, and it was working then, but quit during XP install. I have since double checked several times unpluging and replugging everything.

As for bios, I cant even get there. I tryed to clear the CMOS but not sure if it worked or not, eithe way still no progress. Do you have to remove the battrie for resetting the MB? The Intel Manual (pdf from intel site) dosent say anything about removing the battrie, just resetting the password.

Thanks for the recomendation on the PS, I'll look into that when I get this problem figured out, maybe even as a solution to this.

 

[Tumbleweed36]

Hi,

If you want to reset the CMOS, there are two ways. First, there is a jumper that you can move from pins 1 and 2 to pins 2 and 3. Wait a bit (few minutes) and then move them back. Then, take it for a test drive and see if it helped.

The other way is just to remove the motherboard battery for a few minutes. Then replace it before you take it for a test drive. Either way is effective to reset it and the same process takes place.

Just be sure you unplug it from the wall and ground yourself before you do that. Otherwise, you could cause static problems.

 

[scotch740]

Hi,

If you want to reset the CMOS, there are two ways. First, there is a jumper that you can move from pins 1 and 2 to pins 2 and 3. Wait a bit (few minutes) and then move them back. Then, take it for a test drive and see if it helped.

The other way is just to remove the motherboard battery for a few minutes. Then replace it before you take it for a test drive. Either way is effective to reset it and the same process takes place.

Just be sure you unplug it from the wall and ground yourself before you do that. Otherwise, you could cause static problems.

Ok I did move the jumper but I though I had to power up the computer after moving, then power off, move jumper back to pins 1-2 then power back up, which I did. I did not remove the battery but wasnt sure if this needed to be done in addition to moving the jumper. I will try removing the battery when I get home.

 

[scotch740]

Found The Problem

Found the problem! Its the motherboard, my fears were confirmed. Called newegg and got a new one rush ordered, next day air for free. Also added a Maxtor 500Gig to that and got free next day air on that also. Im returning my crapy power supply and getting a Antec True Power Trio TP3-650 ATX12V 650W Power Supply localy for a nasty discount. Oh yeah NewEgg waved the restocking fee on the PS also, WOO HOO for NewEggray:

To find the problem I tested my parts with a friends comp who has almost the same setup. Everying thing worked except for the MB, simple conclusion from that.

 

[Tumbleweed36]

Hi,

Good move on all that. You have chosen a power supply that will do anything you need in the near future. So glad you made that decision and a three eggs up for NewEgg for being so understanding. They truly are a good company and that is why I buy most of my stuff from them. My guess is that about 85% of the techs, mentors, moderators, and managers on this forum deal with them if they live in the USA.

Be sure to let us know how it comes out and good luck.

 

[dai]

i wish they would open up here

 

[linderman]

you wont regret getting the Antec 650 watt Trio PSU ! :4-cheers:


Nothing will wreck a system faster than a low qaulity PSU!


The problem with selecting a unit based only upon wattage rating; being the big question? How did they arrive at that wattage rating ????? The wattage ratings IMHO are bogus on 80% of units on the market. There is no electrical standard which holds them to a testing criteria. The rating is soley based upon individual corporate integrity or lack there of.

This problem is certainly brought into focus when you realize many units are tested at 20 degrees C, yet the real intenral temperature of a typical computer box is more like 50C. The extra 30 degree C drops the capabilities of the unit by as much as 5 watts per C degree. In summary, the minute you begin to run your system you lost 150 watts of power!

Now lets address the garbage internal components that are built into that unit. I have seen plenty of units that could only sustain their bogus wattage rating in a falsely cool environment for a lousy 100 hours !

Are you really prepared to replace your PSU after 100 hours in a 20C environment ???????

If we had some sort of consumer protection & unified testing methods for the PSU market we would be far better off for sure!

But then again, what makes us as consumers assume that a $30.00 unit will perform the same task as a $125.00 unit ????????????? and by chance; if the $30.00 dollar unit is good enough to do the job; then who in hades are the other makers selling those $200.00 units too ????????????????????

Consumers are their own worst enemies, and consumers make the best salesman for sleasy / shody computer parts makers.

goodluck and enjoy that new rig, at least now you are devoid of garbage.

Personally I think it was the PSU that killed the mobo :upset:

 

[scotch740]

Yeah I wouldnt be supprised if it was the PS that make it kick, after reading up on PSs more. My friend who was lending me his comp to test all this has the trio and its VERY quiet. Which I kinda care about now after having a rig with 7 80mm fans NOT including the power supply.

Thanks again for all the help on everything:wave: