Since the laundry is on the second floor, running the vent down to the first floor would involve a number of bends in the pipe, not a really good idea with a dryer vent.I designed my home to be convenient, very much unlike engineers who design for their own convenience and don't consider the end-user. For instance, who in their right mind believes the most convenient place to locate a vehicle fuel pump and filter is inside the gas tank?
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dryer_vent , click on "Spin Dryers" and note the kinked vent above the dryer, then the pic of the inside of the vent. (Fire Hazard)Since the laundry is on the second floor, running the vent down to the first floor would involve a number of bends in the pipe, not a really good idea with a dryer vent.
I used to do volunteer work for an agency that built homes for veterans. Their dryer vent design never made sense to me. The laundry hookups were in the garage. The vent went up into the ceiling and across the garage and out the wall opposite where the dryer was. The city required a blower half-way across the garage to make sure the lint was forced out of the house. My concern with this setup is no one will ever want to clean their vents, as there is no easy access or direct flow. That's 2 elbows and a fan between the dryer and the exit.
I understand this was the reason the city made them put in in-line boosters. Though the in-line boosters are supposed to be self-cleaning, you can't get a brush through it to clean the rest of the vent pipe, so I doubt these vent pipes will ever be cleaned... leading to an eventual fire condition.Each bend in the ductwork subtracts from the maximum length allowed. Here's the International Code on the subject: What is the maximum length for a clothes dryer vent?.
Thanks for the links, but they are for washing machines, not dryers. I have no idea the purpose of the pressure switches in dryers. Do they shut down the dryer if the lint screen gets filled and pressure builds? Do they activate aspects of the dryer when they sense normal pressure? Would a faulty pressure switch cause the dryer to overheat and shut down? This is the part: Kenmore Dryer Pressure Sensor 279580 3407033 ASMN | eBay
I'm not going to replace a part when I have no idea what it's purpose is or how to test it. You could say to replace all parts of the dryer that cost $20 or less. That will add up to more than I bought the dryer for when it was new, yet I may still end up with the same problem. I'm looking to understand the problem, not replace parts that don't need to be replaced.It's only $20? Replace it.
Thank you for your response. It sounds like you believe it would shut the dryer down if there is too much back pressure from lint buildup in the vent pipe. That makes sense, but I wonder what it might do if there is no back pressure but the sensor goes bad. I doubt it is causing my problem, but it can't hurt to test it anyway. I tried blowing through it, and air didn't go through. Maybe it needs a certain amount of pressure to send a signal to the burner. There is a hose from the blower housing to the sensor and then from the sensor to the burner assembly. I checked its two contacts for resistance and there is none. There are very few sensors in this dryer, so I figure I might as well test them all. (thermistor -- already replaced, high-limit thermostat, moisture sensor, radiant sensor and pressure sensor)Clearly, the pressure sensor would be for sensing back-pressure in the exhaust line, so it's certainly a possible suspect. I'm at a total loss where else a pressure sensor would be used in a dryer.
You can't blow through a pressure sensor, this happens to be a topic I know a bit about. In a previous life I designed avionics, including several air data computers.I tried blowing through it, and air didn't go through. Maybe it needs a certain amount of pressure to send a signal to the burner.