I have a Kenmore 110.97195120 gas dryer (electronic/propane), 30 years old. Lately, I've found it to overheat and shut down when in the permanent press setting (lowest heat/highest drying). I can set it on knit/delicate, and it seems to dry fine. I opened the dryer up and cleaned the little bit of lint I could find, along with cleaning the already clear vent pipe, and nothing seems to change. I have the Part No. 3395267 Rev. B Parts List (in case there is a more current part list). It appears a part will need to be replaced. Please help me identify what part to replace. There are two part numbers for the thermistor (3390292) and Thermostat High-Limit 205°F (3388697) which appear to be the same part in the diagram. Thank you.
Posts by Barry321
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OK, let me clarify what's happening. Though the other settings work fine, when I set the dryer to permanent press (high dry/low heat), the gas burns too long, overheating the dryer and causing the high temp sensor to shut the whole machine down. I can reset it to air dry, and that works. I can reset it to knit/delicate, and that finishes the drying cycle. It only prevents it from working on the permanent press setting. It's just seems the high temp regulator doesn't work on permanent press.There is no lint in the lint filter, fan, dryer and metal vent pipe. Which part regulates the heat for permanent press only, or could the lead to the permanent press setting be faulty, while everything else works fine?
Would that be part # 42, 43 or 48 or something else?
Thank you for the article. It clearly explains the differences and results. Based on this article, my cycling thermostat is defective, though I can't find a cycling thermostat on my dryer. Viewing these videos, I believe the problem is probably the thermistor, so I'll replace that. https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B08GLHKRQT
I don't have a critter screen for that reason. Mine just has a metal flap. I place a magnet on the flap when I'm not using the dryer and take it off when I am using it. Before I started doing that, a critter did get inside and ate up my blower fan.
A simple magnet on my vent flap eliminates all your concerns, and it's very easy to use.
I replaced the thermistor and then ran a cycle on permanent press. The load dried properly with no problems. I then ran a load of a couple of towels on the towel setting, and the dryer shut off before the towels were dry. I then set it to permanent press, and it still shut off early. I then set it to knit/delicate and had the same results. I ran it on air only. Some moisture left the towels, and the dryer cooled down. I then attempted the knit/delicate cycle again. It ran longer, than previously, but still stopped early. I ran it again, and the towels were fairly dry.
It appears there are 4 other parts that might be causing the problem (unless the new thermistor is defective).
Sensor – Pressure #3407033
Electrode, Sensor #3387223 (possibly moisture sensor)
Thermostat (high limit 205°F) #3388697
Sensor, Radiant #338906
Since the dryer does shut off when hot, I’m sensing it is probably either the Electrode, Sensor or the Sensor, Radiant, as there is nothing I can see that might raise the pressure, and the dryer does get hot. What are your thoughts on this?
I replaced the thermistor and then ran a cycle on permanent press. The load dried properly with no problems. I then ran a load of a couple of towels on the towel setting, and the dryer shut off before the towels were dry. I then set it to permanent press, and it still shut off early. I then set it to knit/delicate and had the same results. I ran it on air only. Some moisture left the towels, and the dryer cooled down. I then attempted the knit/delicate cycle again. It ran longer, than previously, but still stopped early. I ran it again, and the towels were fairly dry.
It appears there are 4 other parts that might be causing the problem (unless the new thermistor is defective).
Sensor – Pressure #3407033
Electrode, Sensor #3387223 (possibly moisture sensor)
Thermostat (high limit 205°F) #3388697
Sensor, Radiant #338906
Since the dryer does shut off when hot, I’m sensing it is probably either the Electrode, Sensor or the Sensor, Radiant, as there is nothing I can see that might raise the pressure, and the dryer does get hot. What are your thoughts on this?
I designed my home to be convenient, very much unlike engineers who design for their own convenience and don't consider the end-user. For instance, who in their right mind believes the most convenient place to locate a vehicle fuel pump and filter is inside the gas tank?
Even my son, who is an engineer, admits many of the designs engineers come up with are far from ideal.I see. Who died and left you boss?
I understand there are many companies that primarily focus on their bottom line, but there are challenges with engineers in general, also. My son is responsible for all software development for all spacecraft designed, or already in space, for the major aerospace corporation he works for. He finds it challenging when he assigns an engineer to a project, only to find out the engineer chooses to take the easy way out and manipulate what already exists rather than designing something ideal for the situation. He often has to fix what engineers chose to just jury rig.
I used to do volunteer work for an agency that built homes for veterans. Their dryer vent design never made sense to me. The laundry hookups were in the garage. The vent went up into the ceiling and across the garage and out the wall opposite where the dryer was. The city required a blower half-way across the garage to make sure the lint was forced out of the house. My concern with this setup is no one will ever want to clean their vents, as there is no easy access or direct flow. That's 2 elbows and a fan between the dryer and the exit.
By the way, I'm still working to find the solution for my dryer, so any suggestions would be appreciated. I removed and cleaned the grill outlet, moisture sensor and blower fan and housing. There was a slight coating of dried lint, but nothing to cause any significant reduction of airflow. Resistance in the new (and old) thermistor lowers as the temperature rises, though overall range appears a little lower for the old one than the new one. Are there any other suggestions I could test? Since the thermostat is just high and not cycling, and it does shut down the dryer when it overheats, I don't sense that is the problem. Since I was able to run a load to completion and have the clothes dry, I sense none of the fuses are bad. I don't know how to test the pressure sensor.
I understand this was the reason the city made them put in in-line boosters. Though the in-line boosters are supposed to be self-cleaning, you can't get a brush through it to clean the rest of the vent pipe, so I doubt these vent pipes will ever be cleaned... leading to an eventual fire condition.
Thanks for the links, but they are for washing machines, not dryers. I have no idea the purpose of the pressure switches in dryers. Do they shut down the dryer if the lint screen gets filled and pressure builds? Do they activate aspects of the dryer when they sense normal pressure? Would a faulty pressure switch cause the dryer to overheat and shut down? This is the part: Kenmore Dryer Pressure Sensor 279580 3407033 ASMN | eBay
I'm not going to replace a part when I have no idea what it's purpose is or how to test it. You could say to replace all parts of the dryer that cost $20 or less. That will add up to more than I bought the dryer for when it was new, yet I may still end up with the same problem. I'm looking to understand the problem, not replace parts that don't need to be replaced.
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