Can you take a screenshot? I think your PSU is the problem. 500 w is a little light for that system, and if the Everest reading is correct, the +12 v is way too low. Double check your voltages with speedfan, and check your CPU temps while you are at it.
I Think I'm Having A Problem With Artifacting
I was reading through this thread and noticed the attachment - http://www.techsupportforum.com/f24/oblivion-graphics-error-135937.html
Whenever I play Oblivion it is fine but every so often I get the same as what is shown in the picture in that thread above.
My PC specs are:
OS - Windows XP Pro
CPU - Intel Pentium D 2.8Ghz
Video Card - 256mb Nvidia Geforce 7600GT (XXX Version)
RAM - 1gb PC3200 DDR
PSU - 500w Antec Basiq (running at 11.37 V as shown in Everest)
HK
Whenever I play Oblivion it is fine but every so often I get the same as what is shown in the picture in that thread above.
My PC specs are:
OS - Windows XP Pro
CPU - Intel Pentium D 2.8Ghz
Video Card - 256mb Nvidia Geforce 7600GT (XXX Version)
RAM - 1gb PC3200 DDR
PSU - 500w Antec Basiq (running at 11.37 V as shown in Everest)
HK
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I can't really take a screenshot because it happens all of a sudden at times and sometimes it doesn't happen at all. I was playing Oblivion for around 3 hours earlier and it didn't happen once.
I've been told by many forums that 11.37 V is fine but by others that it isn't. Speedfan read at 11.37 V aswell by the way.
EDIT: Just a quick question... Could the power cable be anything to do with it (the one running from the PSU to the wall socket) as I'm using a Power Cable from my old 300w PSU instead of the one that came with the 500w PSU as I misplaced it somewhere.
HK
I've been told by many forums that 11.37 V is fine but by others that it isn't. Speedfan read at 11.37 V aswell by the way.
EDIT: Just a quick question... Could the power cable be anything to do with it (the one running from the PSU to the wall socket) as I'm using a Power Cable from my old 300w PSU instead of the one that came with the 500w PSU as I misplaced it somewhere.
HK
Brand New PSU Reading At 11.07v
I bought a brand new Antec Basiq 500w PSU from the Internet at Christmas and it was running at 11.37v
I was told a couple days ago that this is dangerously low and that I have a faulty Power Supply. Well today I went out and bought a 460w Xclio StablePower PSU which cost me a bundle and after installing it onto my PC it's only reading at 11.07v
Surely two brand new PSU's can't be faulty... What else could be the problem?
HK
I bought a brand new Antec Basiq 500w PSU from the Internet at Christmas and it was running at 11.37v
I was told a couple days ago that this is dangerously low and that I have a faulty Power Supply. Well today I went out and bought a 460w Xclio StablePower PSU which cost me a bundle and after installing it onto my PC it's only reading at 11.07v
Surely two brand new PSU's can't be faulty... What else could be the problem?
HK
HI,
First of all, when you have a stated voltage, a variation of 5% +/- will work fine. For example, on the +12 rail that would be between 11.4 and 12.6, so the 11.37v is below standard. The new one is way below that at 11.07v, so you do have a problem.
I only wish you had purchased a brand name power supply when you purchased your second one and that might have told us a lot more than the one you purchased. I am not saying it is not adequate (I don't know), but a well-known brand name would have given us a clue immediately. Since your present power supply is not a well-known brand name, it is kind of an unknown quality to us. If it were an Antec, Seasonic, OCZ, Fortron, we would have been able to pretty well know about the problem much quicker.
List your specs so we know what you have and that should help. Also, tell us how you are determining the voltages, via what method?
Then, download the SensorviewPro program and also speedfan under my signature and post the data for us. That wasy we have two more ways to compare the voltages so we get an idea if the sensor is bad in your motherboard or some other problem.
Post back with information/concerns/questions.
First of all, when you have a stated voltage, a variation of 5% +/- will work fine. For example, on the +12 rail that would be between 11.4 and 12.6, so the 11.37v is below standard. The new one is way below that at 11.07v, so you do have a problem.
I only wish you had purchased a brand name power supply when you purchased your second one and that might have told us a lot more than the one you purchased. I am not saying it is not adequate (I don't know), but a well-known brand name would have given us a clue immediately. Since your present power supply is not a well-known brand name, it is kind of an unknown quality to us. If it were an Antec, Seasonic, OCZ, Fortron, we would have been able to pretty well know about the problem much quicker.
List your specs so we know what you have and that should help. Also, tell us how you are determining the voltages, via what method?
Then, download the SensorviewPro program and also speedfan under my signature and post the data for us. That wasy we have two more ways to compare the voltages so we get an idea if the sensor is bad in your motherboard or some other problem.
Post back with information/concerns/questions.
OS - Windows XP ProHI,
First of all, when you have a stated voltage, a variation of 5% +/- will work fine. For example, on the +12 rail that would be between 11.4 and 12.6, so the 11.37v is below standard. The new one is way below that at 11.07v, so you do have a problem.
List your specs so we know what you have and that should help. Also, tell us how you are determining the voltages, via what method?
Then, download the SensorviewPro program and also speedfan under my signature and post the data for us. That wasy we have two more ways to compare the voltages so we get an idea if the sensor is bad in your motherboard or some other problem.
Post back with information/concerns/questions.
CPU - Intel Pentium D 2.8Ghz
Video Card - 256mb Nvidia Geforce 7600gt
RAM - 1GB PC3200 DDR
I am using Everest to determine the voltages.
Here is the Sensorview & speedfan info:
I had a thought... I was opening up my PC and noticed that there was a wire named 'Speaker' coming from the PC Case that wasn't attached to the motherboard. Could this be the problem? Sorry to just throw random things about, it's just that I'm really frustrated and annoyed with this now and I'm looking/hoping for a solution.
HK
Hi,
I doubt if a speaker wire would have anything to do with that at all. I think from what I see, you have a weak power supply. I would take it back or RMA it if it were mine and if you have an option to obtain a brand name power supply, I would do that also. Please read the Power Supply Information under my signature area before you go too far.
I think that the first power supply although an Antec was a tad weak, but the Basiq is not one of their top supplies. Antec is very good at replacements for a faulty supply, so you could send that one back (RMA) for a replacement and if it is fairly new, maybe upgrade to their new TRIO model which is around the price you paid for the second supply.
If the first one is reading what it is (and I suspect it was correct), then this second one is just a "dog" power supply or a bad one. It is quite possible to get a bad power supply when they are new (those of us who build computers for customers come across that), but two in a row means you have been unlucky, but that is quite possible. Rarely, does that happen to a well known brand name, but is quite common for the off-brands like the second one you purchased. Their claims are great, but their power supplies are not.
Could it be a bad sensor? Well, yes it could. Does the computer work flawlessly? If it were a bad sensor and the second power supply not right, why did the first one which is a very, very basic (basiq) one work better than the second one? I suspect your sensors (not 100% positive) are fine and you have just gotten two bad or weak power supplies.
Let me know if I can help further.
I doubt if a speaker wire would have anything to do with that at all. I think from what I see, you have a weak power supply. I would take it back or RMA it if it were mine and if you have an option to obtain a brand name power supply, I would do that also. Please read the Power Supply Information under my signature area before you go too far.
I think that the first power supply although an Antec was a tad weak, but the Basiq is not one of their top supplies. Antec is very good at replacements for a faulty supply, so you could send that one back (RMA) for a replacement and if it is fairly new, maybe upgrade to their new TRIO model which is around the price you paid for the second supply.
If the first one is reading what it is (and I suspect it was correct), then this second one is just a "dog" power supply or a bad one. It is quite possible to get a bad power supply when they are new (those of us who build computers for customers come across that), but two in a row means you have been unlucky, but that is quite possible. Rarely, does that happen to a well known brand name, but is quite common for the off-brands like the second one you purchased. Their claims are great, but their power supplies are not.
Could it be a bad sensor? Well, yes it could. Does the computer work flawlessly? If it were a bad sensor and the second power supply not right, why did the first one which is a very, very basic (basiq) one work better than the second one? I suspect your sensors (not 100% positive) are fine and you have just gotten two bad or weak power supplies.
Let me know if I can help further.
I've just checked the voltages in the BIOS and they're reading at 11.67 whereas in Everest etc they're reading at a lot lower than that.
HK
HK
Hi,
That is unusual, because normally the most accurate readings are with the BIOS, SensorviewPro, and with Speedfan. Is the computer operating O.K????? What motherboard do you have?
That being said, if you want to check the accuracy of your sensors, here is a way to do that. Print it out and then follow through with it for the +12V rail. Let us know how it comes out:
http://www.techsupportforum.com/har...-tricks/65936-troubleshooting-multimeter.html
That is unusual, because normally the most accurate readings are with the BIOS, SensorviewPro, and with Speedfan. Is the computer operating O.K????? What motherboard do you have?
That being said, if you want to check the accuracy of your sensors, here is a way to do that. Print it out and then follow through with it for the +12V rail. Let us know how it comes out:
http://www.techsupportforum.com/har...-tricks/65936-troubleshooting-multimeter.html
OK update! I took both my PSU's to a PC repair shop and they tested the voltages with:
A) A Multimeter
B) BIOS
All readings came back as 12.6v for both PSU's.
That means that they're not faulty and that the problem has to be to do with my PC... Have you any idea what could be wrong?
HK
A) A Multimeter
B) BIOS
All readings came back as 12.6v for both PSU's.
That means that they're not faulty and that the problem has to be to do with my PC... Have you any idea what could be wrong?
HK
Unless that cord is something very special (broken) then there's no need to worry about it. The important thing is the amperes being fed to the components of the PC.
eback, I'd be ever so grateful if you could take a look at this thread for me as I feel they are related in some way, thanks - http://www.techsupportforum.com/
HK
HK
Hi,
If they tested O.K., and your computer is working fine, then use it and don't worry about it. I just don't see in my shop any that show that divergent of readings with the sensor. Usually, if they are bad, then it shows the same bad reading, but the BIOS and the other programs show the same problem. What I am saying, is that you have a very flaky sensor, but that won't harm anything. If it is not broken otherwise, don't sweat the small stuff and a faulty sensor reading is small stuff. Have a great day.
If they tested O.K., and your computer is working fine, then use it and don't worry about it. I just don't see in my shop any that show that divergent of readings with the sensor. Usually, if they are bad, then it shows the same bad reading, but the BIOS and the other programs show the same problem. What I am saying, is that you have a very flaky sensor, but that won't harm anything. If it is not broken otherwise, don't sweat the small stuff and a faulty sensor reading is small stuff. Have a great day.
Thanks for your help so far. I have been experiencing Bad video Artifacting in games though and was told that the low voltage on the PSU is probably the culprit.
Is there a chance that the sensor readings on my PC are correct and I am actually experiencing low voltages as I don't want to rule anything out yet just incase my PSU takes out some components some time down the line.
HK
Is there a chance that the sensor readings on my PC are correct and I am actually experiencing low voltages as I don't want to rule anything out yet just incase my PSU takes out some components some time down the line.
HK
Hi,
Well, low voltage is one of the leading causes of artifacting, that is a fact. If you trust the shop you took it to, then you don't have low voltages. The ultimate test I guess would be to get yourself a multi-meter from radio shack or someplace similar (about 8 bucks for a cheap one) and try to test it yourself with the link I gave you.
My only thing to consider is that if the shop that tested them says they were both 12.6V, when the sensor showed them so divergent, then that is suspicious to me. If they sold it to you (the have a vested interest to it being right), then they are not independent in that they would have to admit they sold you faulty goods. I just find it highly unlikely that both of your power supplies would show 12.6 at the same time when they show so much different, even if with a faulty sensor.
Faulty sensors are not uncommon, but being that inconsistent is rather uncommon. Let's face it, if the shop said they were BOTH 12.6v (which is the highest allowable for the 5% +/-) , then that to me is strange since the readings varied so much with the BIOS, SensorviewPro, and Speedfan. Not saying it is not possible, but strange to me. I guess I would check it myself to make sure if you have artifacting.
Let me know if I can help.
Well, low voltage is one of the leading causes of artifacting, that is a fact. If you trust the shop you took it to, then you don't have low voltages. The ultimate test I guess would be to get yourself a multi-meter from radio shack or someplace similar (about 8 bucks for a cheap one) and try to test it yourself with the link I gave you.
My only thing to consider is that if the shop that tested them says they were both 12.6V, when the sensor showed them so divergent, then that is suspicious to me. If they sold it to you (the have a vested interest to it being right), then they are not independent in that they would have to admit they sold you faulty goods. I just find it highly unlikely that both of your power supplies would show 12.6 at the same time when they show so much different, even if with a faulty sensor.
Faulty sensors are not uncommon, but being that inconsistent is rather uncommon. Let's face it, if the shop said they were BOTH 12.6v (which is the highest allowable for the 5% +/-) , then that to me is strange since the readings varied so much with the BIOS, SensorviewPro, and Speedfan. Not saying it is not possible, but strange to me. I guess I would check it myself to make sure if you have artifacting.
Let me know if I can help.
Well when he tested them I actually watched him do it and saw the reading myself. Anyway, I've just reinstalled my original PSU, went to BIOS and it says that its running at 12v exactly whereas Everest etc says only 11.37v, weird. Thanks a lot for your help!
HK
HK
it sounds like a faulty sensor check what the bios reports it at
if you can use a multimeter
http://www.techsupportforum.com/har...-tricks/65936-troubleshooting-multimeter.html
don't start a new thread on the same problem i will merge them together so we can go back and see what has already been tried
if you can use a multimeter
http://www.techsupportforum.com/har...-tricks/65936-troubleshooting-multimeter.html
don't start a new thread on the same problem i will merge them together so we can go back and see what has already been tried
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