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Honda 11 HP GX340 Won't start with the key

27K views 4 replies 2 participants last post by  okrobie  
#1 ·
Hi all, this is the same generator as the previous thread. That one was solved so now we are on to a different issue.

First mistake: I removed the ignition switch and took it to a locksmith because I bought it without a key. I re-installed it but it won't start in electric mode.

I jumpered the solenoid and it starts fine. I'm not getting a contact closure to the solenoid when I turn the ignition key.

Since I just had an oil spill, I naturally checked the oil level and it was good, but I'm not getting a contact closure from the oil level sensor switch. I tried to jumper the oil level switch but it didn't help.

Here is a schematic of the circuit:
http://cdn.powerequipment.honda.com/engines/pdf/manuals/37Z5F602.pdf

Any ideas? Thanks, Jim
 
#2 · (Edited)
Hi, in studying the schematic, I discovered an inconsistency. The drawing shows the wire from the oil switch (8) to be yellow, which connects to another yellow wire, which connects to the black wire on the oil alert unit(6). In the unit, the yellow wire goes to the yellow wire on the oil alert unit. They can't be reversed, because the connectors are polarized opposite so the yellow wire can't connect to the yellow wire. They don't disclose what is in the black box oil alert unit, but it can't be too complicated because it only has two wires.

Here's the schematics. They are easier to get to than my previous link.


Image


Image
 
#3 ·
Not suppose to getting any closure (near zero ohms) if the engine has the proper amount of oil. It is ground device so the ignition kill terminal is shorted to ground to kill and to prevent the from starting up if there is very low or no oil; otherwise, it is just an open circuit.

Check the white at the ignition switch for your battery voltage if not there then the fuse is probably blown. If there then I believe the blue/white wire label "ST" in your diagram for the battery voltage with the ignition switch held in start position. Not there bad ignition switch, if there then the starter solenoid is probably bad.
 
#4 ·
Thanks AVB, I'll check that all out tomorrow. One thing I can say for sure is that the starter solenoid is good, because if I jumper 12 VDC on to the BL/W terminal, the engine will start. The diagnostic procedure you suggest will work, but the terminals on the ignition switch are challenging to get to. Thanks, I'll get back to you tomorrow.
 
#5 ·
I got it running, but it was my error. When I re-installed the starter switch, I got confused by the "white" wire. The "white" wire is shrink wrapped with black spaghetti so I misread the color. Anyway, I had the wire attached to the cold side of the solenoid. All is well now. Thanks for the help, especially AVB who got me started looking at the "white" wire. Regards, Jim
 
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