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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My b&s model 461707 is flooding. I have completely rebuilt the carb, new fuel line and filter. Still flooding. I even bought a brand new carb and it didn't help. Thinking maybe the new carb was faulty, I rebuilt it to no avail. It has done this in the past and a rebuild always fixed it. It started after raising the rear of the tractor maybe 2 feet in order to change a broken belt if that gives anyone any ideas. I am stumped on this. Maybe a slightly longer needle? Silicone the top to the bottom rather than using the gasket? Thanks all!
 

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Double check the gasket position that is that seals the upper body. They only work one way and causes the float to hang when installed upside down by rubbing on the float hinge. Also invert the upper body with float installed and make it is parallel to the gasket surface. When reinstalling the upper body to the lower body invert the carburetor as to not hang the float during assembly. Once assembled pressure test to check that float valve is working as intended before installation.
 

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Could have provide the Briggs repair manual for free in PDF format for that opposed engine. The pressure is call a pop off test. It you apply approximately 10 PSI to fuel inlet with the carburetor inverted to make sure the float needle valve assembly is sealing. If you continue to add pressure the float valve will unseat and won't re seat until the pressure drops back to around 10 psi. It is test not mention in the manual though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I know! I put a shutoff valve on the fuel line so that I can run the carb dry before shutting it off. That's the only way it will start the next time. If I'm running it and shut it off for whatever reason without shutting the gas off, it will NOT start again unless I pull the gas soaked plugs, crank it for a while to get the extra gas out, etc. When it is running, you can tell it's getting too much gas. Maybe lifting the rear caused something? Doesn't seem like it though....
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I don't think there is a problem with heat on the fuel line, but there does seem to be an issue with the intake manifold where the carb mounts to it. Snapped these pics... It is not level in 2 of the 3 pics with the level in different positions. Should I try grinding off some material to make it level?
 

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No on the grinding, mowers are designed to cut slopes.
Still think you have a needle/seat problem.

BG
 

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Pretty much what BG says.......being level doesn't come into the equation. Also, what is being used as a reference point in regard to being level?? If you are using the garage floor as an indicator of level, it shouldn't be the case. Minimum slope on a garage floor is 1/8" per foot with the slope heading towards the overhead door.....1/4" is even better.

Forget the 'being level' part......the biggest question is if the surface is perfectly flat and even. In all reality, the intake is not the problem......if it were you would be seeing a 'lean' condition when trying to start the engine.

If the carb is working as it should, you might want to check out weak spark. Seems like you've done everything but check out the ignition.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I have actually already replaced the ignition system as well. Getting a very good looking spark. I used to be able to mow my entire lawn on one tank of gas. After it started flooding all the time, I can only get about 3/4 of it done before having to add gas. I don't even turn the mower off while filling the gas tank anymore - cuz it will not restart. I used to be able to drop the throttle all the way down while dumping clippings from the bagger, but now if I do that it stalls and won't start again. I can throttle it down about halfway now.
 

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Are you sure you have the linkage hooked up correctly? A hot engine should not need
choking or priming. If the coke is not all the way off, it will run too rich.

Maybe try another new plug, they are cheap enough

BG
 
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