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Discussion Starter #1
My problem is that the Antec Trio 650w doesn't work in my computer, while the original power supply does. The key phrase here is "in my computer".

CompUSA sold me an Antec Trio 650w ATX power supply ($70 on sale). And while the cables coming out of that thing look like an mad alien squid when compared to my OEM power supply (a 300w Bestec - see specs below), I managed to find all the connections, and connected everything I needed. I had a lot of cables left over. I screwed the power supply to the case and...

No power.

I disconnected everything but the two motherboard connectors (the 20/24-pin and the square 4-pin), and same thing - no power. But when I conenct my old supply to the same two connectors and press the power button - I get power.

I took both power supplies to CompUSA, where a tech hooked them up to a tester (see link) and found the both supplies test the same - all lights on the tester showed green except the -5 volt light, which is correct. And the tester showed that both supplies are 12v.

I took the supply back home and same thing - no power. I don't get it.

My original Bestec Power Supply specs: http://support.gateway.com/s/POWER/100929/100929sp2.shtml

The Antec Truepower Trio 650w Power Supply specs:
http://www.antec.com/us/productDetails.php?ProdID=23650

The power supply tester used at CompUSA:
http://www.compusa.com/products/product_info.asp?pfp=cat3&product_code=332184
 

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please give us the model numer of your besteq PSU



the four pin cpu power plug you are using is not the one that seperates from the 20 +4 motherboard connector is it ????? this is a common error


the correct 4-pin cpu power plug has a plastic snap lock latch and has two yellow wires and two black wires

please elaborate on the info above ????
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for replying Linderman. It was you and another team member who responded to my previous post about >> finding the right kind of power supply <<.

The model number of the Bestec power supply that came with my computer is : "ATX-300-12E Rev D". That's read directly off the power supply label. The link to the specs are in my first post.

I used the 4-pin connector that you described (2 yellow, 2 black), which is not the 4-pin addition to the 20-pin motherboard connector.

Of note : The Bestec motherboard cable is a 20-pin connector; however the motherboard accepts (has the slots available) to accept a 24-pin connector. I tried both configurations (20 and 24 pin) without success. The 4-pin connector that you described (2 yellow, 2 black) was plugged into it's own 4-pin slot for both tests.

Lastly - and I'll caveat this by stating that I know nothing about electricity - I think one of 4 scenarios exist :

1) the soft-switch (that's what I'm calling the power-on button on the front of the computer) doesn't generate enough juice to tell the new, more powerful supply to turn on,

2) the new supply from what I was told at CompUSA has a power fluctuation test that it performs prior to starting (which the old supply does not do), and it's finding the the power coming from my outlets is not steady enough (though I've never seen any visual evidence of fluctuating power),

3) The outlet doesn't generate enough juice to power the supply because it's wired along a string of other outlets that siphon their own power,

4) or it's something else.
 

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its possible the trio is defective, it must happen sometime after all..
i just replaced a 250 besteq in an hp pavilion with a 550 trio, to avoid future issues, no problems. of course i used an empty drive bay to store the wild snakes coming out of the antec.
 

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I would take that power supply back to compusa and ask for another


you should not have this issue; you are doing everything right


oen last note : compare side by side the 20 pin motherboard connector of both power supplies / are the position of the colored wires matching ???
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Anything's possible including that the Trio is defective in a way that's not detected by the tester the CompUSA guy hooked it up to, because it tested ok (the specs to the tester used are in my first post).

But I'll check the colored wires sequence against the good power supply like you said. If I infer correctly, you mean that wire color is standard, so any two supplies should share the same color-coded wiring sequence. If the sequence doesn't match, that's a problem. My guess is that they'll match since they both tested good, but I'll be sure to check.

And bottom line, I will exchange the supply at CompUSA. And I'll buy a tester that I mentioned in my first post. If the exchanged supply doesn't work, I'll then open the tester and let you know what I find out.

I'll exchange it tonight after work. Either way good or bad I'll post the result.

PS : That's more or less where I crammed the unused cables into my machine too. That supply is like a hydra.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok, I exchanged the power supply for another Trio 650, and I bought the tester I referred to in my first post. In short, same thing is still happening - new supply is not working in the computer.

It's weird. It's frustrating. I don't know what to say. So I ran both power supplies through the tester here at my home, and both supplies checked out. The result was both supplies lit up all the testing lights except the -5v, and both tested as a 12v supply.

Now there is a discrepancy between the wiring of the larger 20/24-pin color-coded wiring.

But this is hard to explain clearly with words. So what I'd like to do is post a short video of me plugging in both supplies to the motherboard and then to the tester. And I'd like to show you a comparison of each supply's 20/24-pin motherboard cable structure. That way you can see what I see and what I'm doing, and it'll address a bunch of questions, and most importantly it'll save time. So where can I post a video, say 1 or 2 minutes long or so?

If your answer's YouTube, fine. But if there's a better place, let me know.

Thanks again.

Just to recap : The Bestec supply is what came with and what works in the computer. The Antec supply is new, and despite it testing good, it does not work in the computer.
 

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how old is this computer?
from antec faq's
Why is my 20 + 4 pin connector missing a wire?
The missing wire is a -5V wire, it was removed from the Intel standard years ago. All current Antec Power Supplies do not have this wire. If you are in need of this wire you will have to find an older ATX 1.3 compliant power supply. For more information on this topic please visit http://www.formfactors.org/developer/specs/ATX12V PSDG2.01.pdf
 

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please email me your video clip


check your PM's = private messages (located in the upper right hand corner of this web page



regards

joe
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
The computer was bought from BestBuy during April 2006.

As far as the wire configuration between the two supplies being different, and the Antec possibly missing the -5v wire : Both power supplies lit up the tester the same way, and neither power supply test lit up the -5v light. So I don't think my original supply uses or needs a -5v wire. If it did, then the -5v light would have been lit up on the test - right?

I know zip about electricity, but I think that would be the case.
 

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you are correct any motherboard made in the last 2-3 years doesnt use the 15v pin thats why most all supplies dropped that pin & wire / thats of no concern to you here, but the conversation keeps this thread thorough. :pray:


I have never heard of such a problem between compatible ATX wired systems >>>> although I havent looked at your wiring pics yet ? will do that by end of day.


if it were me; I would be taking this machine back to best buy to find out why the motherboard is doing this ?????

although it may well be cheaper just to put another motherboard in the system and be done with it ?????

what are the specs of your current system
'
we may be able to find a cheap motherboard that will give you "more" anyway >>>>> knowing the Geeks they dont use very good motherboards usually, thats how they keep their build prices down, personally I dont try to compete on the low dollar end of things, but rather offer better speed, realiability and free warranty service calls parts and labor for one full year >>>>>> many of my system builds come in for video card upgrade and I install that as a freebie >>>>> they also NEVER need a new PSU either I put good ones in to start :4-thatsba

keep us posted and let us know how you want to proceed
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I had company over last night, so I shot the video after they left. I haven't placed subtitles and converted it. I will do that tonight. This will give me the chance to try out a video-editing program I bought a few months ago.

I shot three things :

1) plugging each supply into the computer
2) plugging each supply into the tester
3) comparing each supply's wiring on the motherboard wiring connector

As far as your suggestion : I'm not sure if the pre-packaged OEM-certified Operating System would work without the OEM-motherboard. And the Geeks already had my system for about a month last year, but that's a whole other story with no small amount of you-Geeks-are-doing-what-??? frusteration.

Part of me that wants to build a custom system, but $200 for the Windows operating system. I prefer Windows (XP, that is) for all the software and games. Part of me is also hesitant cause I am not so technically minded.

Part of me knows that despite the drawbacks, pre-built, box-store-sold systems are within my budget and expectations. I all my upgrades I've never come across such an obstacle. Darn this power supply issue (my first PS upgrade ever, at that)!

Financially pre-builts, for me, also make sense : spend $600 for the box and $300 on initial RAM, graphics, sound, and LCD upgrades. Then a year or two later, upgrade the power and graphics for another $200 net (selling/handing down), and I'm good for another 2 years. So for 4 years and $1100 - $1200 I have my system. Maybe the self-build system would have been cheaper, but would it last for 4 years at that price?

I have three computers in my home : mine, my son's and my godson's. So I have the option of either selling or handing down parts I don't use, which either way saves me money on a future upgrade purchase.

I give credence to your suggestion, because I always consider building my own system instead of purchasing a pre-built. I understand the pros. It's the cons that are unfamiliar. This is a whole other topic though. It's tantalizing though despite the OS purchase price.

Anyway, you'll have the vids tonight.
 

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I dont think the OEM OS will prohibit you from swapping motherboards;

but in the event you are unable to install an OS with your current disks / dont sweat that one


you could always borrow a win xp disk from a friend / as long as the versions are the same >>>>> if your system is win xp home you must use a friends disk with win xp home >>>>> you MUST use your 25 character install key code to stay legit; but that's no biggie

you do have a right to replace a defective motherboard within the bounds of your win xp license!

as far as the challenges of replacing a motherboard; its not nearly as difficult as you might think. I could make a video for you to watch; its your call but I think there is a strong chance you have a flaky motherboard, and seldom do the geeks sell top notch motherboards as they are too absorbed with price tag's >>>> in order to keep profit margins they use 3rd tier motherboard manufacturers

you call, but many find solice in the independence gained from fixing your own system, although it may not be cheaper; the level of quality and dependability & performance is significantly improved

food for thought


best regards

joe
 

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Hey guys just a thought, check the caps on the motherboard for bulged or leaking, had a HP in the shop last week that was freesing and random rebooting, swaped in a known working antec, same thing would not post, put the original in and it posted.

Thru closer inspection had 5 leaking capacitores
 

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Hello




got your videos / nice job by the way :pray:


the wiring on your two PSU's is close enough match to rule out the Bestec being a special PSU with its own different wiring pattern

at this point, I am going to say motherboard replacement


if you are on a budget / give me your complete system specs and I can point you to a motherboard for less than $80.00


if you are not budget restricted , we can point you to the upper levels of performance :wink:
 
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