also, my gain is at 75%. seems worth mentioning.
amplifier's protect mode
alright so ill keep it simple, heres my issue. but firstly, my gear:
2 Directed Electronics 23124. 12" subs 750 watts peak each
Crunch BLX1000d amp
8 ga amp kit
Sony CDX M620 headunit
Ive had my subs/amp for about 3 weeks, and they were working fine, damn they pump hard. But now, just today, the amp went into protect mode, and continues to do so. trends:
-my car is not hot, neither is my amp, nor subs. so no overheating, im assuming
-my amp is screwed onto the back of my sub box with my backseat dropped. so, in other words, good venting.
-the music isnt that loud, especially compared to past playing before the problem came up.
-it has happened at low volumes
-the very last occasion that the amp cut, protect mode DID NOT come on. the bass just stopped for a few seconds, i lowered my headunit volume, and the bass popped back on. repeat, did not go into protect mode because light was still green.
sorry for the big wall of text, just really hoping its something simple like grounding, and not my amp itself.
as far as grounding, the ground wire is attached to a bolt underneath my rear speaker deck. I did not install the amp myself so i dont know if they sanded the surface but the grounding looks alright to *me*.
haaaalp
2 Directed Electronics 23124. 12" subs 750 watts peak each
Crunch BLX1000d amp
8 ga amp kit
Sony CDX M620 headunit
Ive had my subs/amp for about 3 weeks, and they were working fine, damn they pump hard. But now, just today, the amp went into protect mode, and continues to do so. trends:
-my car is not hot, neither is my amp, nor subs. so no overheating, im assuming
-my amp is screwed onto the back of my sub box with my backseat dropped. so, in other words, good venting.
-the music isnt that loud, especially compared to past playing before the problem came up.
-it has happened at low volumes
-the very last occasion that the amp cut, protect mode DID NOT come on. the bass just stopped for a few seconds, i lowered my headunit volume, and the bass popped back on. repeat, did not go into protect mode because light was still green.
sorry for the big wall of text, just really hoping its something simple like grounding, and not my amp itself.
as far as grounding, the ground wire is attached to a bolt underneath my rear speaker deck. I did not install the amp myself so i dont know if they sanded the surface but the grounding looks alright to *me*.
haaaalp
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I dont know how to name it, but the subs wiring go into 2 positive terminals on the amp, no negative terminals. i found that odd.
from the amp its wired directly to the box terminals.
forgive my ignorance, im familiar with home theatre quite well, but new to car audio. I have a few pics if it helps. just let me know and ill upload em.
no clue about the monoblock thing... sorry
edit: the specs just to clarify, and confirm for yourself...hope this helps
# 750 Watts
# BlackMaxx Flo-Thru Heat Sink Design
# PWM Mosfet Power Supply
# Fully Bridgeable Design
# Black High Quality PCB Design
# High Speed Mosfet Output Devices
# Class AB Operation
# Separate Bass and Treble Controls with Switch
# HP (High Pass) from 60 Hz to 1.2 kHz Adjustable Crossover Network
# LP (Low Pass) from 40 Hz to 150 Hz Adjustable Crossover Network
# HP/LP/Flat Select Switch
# Silver RCA Line Input , High Level Inputs
# Silver RCA Line Output for Amplifier Daisy Chaining
# Internal Protection Circuitry
# Green "On"LED, Red "Protect"LED
# Mono Channel
SPECIFICATIONS:
# 1 x 350 Watts @ 4 Ohms
# 1 x 750 Watts @ 2 Ohms
# 1 x 1000 Watts @ 1 Ohm
# Size (WxHxL): 10.1" x 1.85" x 12.79"
from the amp its wired directly to the box terminals.
forgive my ignorance, im familiar with home theatre quite well, but new to car audio. I have a few pics if it helps. just let me know and ill upload em.
no clue about the monoblock thing... sorry
edit: the specs just to clarify, and confirm for yourself...hope this helps
# 750 Watts
# BlackMaxx Flo-Thru Heat Sink Design
# PWM Mosfet Power Supply
# Fully Bridgeable Design
# Black High Quality PCB Design
# High Speed Mosfet Output Devices
# Class AB Operation
# Separate Bass and Treble Controls with Switch
# HP (High Pass) from 60 Hz to 1.2 kHz Adjustable Crossover Network
# LP (Low Pass) from 40 Hz to 150 Hz Adjustable Crossover Network
# HP/LP/Flat Select Switch
# Silver RCA Line Input , High Level Inputs
# Silver RCA Line Output for Amplifier Daisy Chaining
# Internal Protection Circuitry
# Green "On"LED, Red "Protect"LED
# Mono Channel
SPECIFICATIONS:
# 1 x 350 Watts @ 4 Ohms
# 1 x 750 Watts @ 2 Ohms
# 1 x 1000 Watts @ 1 Ohm
# Size (WxHxL): 10.1" x 1.85" x 12.79"
first time i wired mine to 2 ohm load it was fine for a while then started tripping out,, maybe its not an ohm problem tho? but maybe it is, who knows, im just assuming... and no nothing should get damaged while playing your music loud if its the ohm load...the amp cuts of to protect itself, thats all,,, just restart your deck and it shud be back on,, thats what im doing until i get a new amp.
but maybe it is, who knows, im just assuming... and no nothing should get damaged while playing your music loud if its the ohm load...the amp cuts of to protect itself, thats all,,, just restart your deck and it shud be back on,, thats what im doing until i get a new amp.
in my opinon , two subs sound like **** if they're on there own channels(ex. two channel amp) if the amps bridgeable or sumthing you shud wire both subs to the same terminals to bridge the amp...more power and sounds better, only problem is if your amp isnt stable to it like mine
His amp is mono,, so there shud only be two terminals, 1 pos. and 1 neg. and both neg. wires shud go to the neg. on amp and both pos. wires shud go to pos. terminal on amp, some mono amps have two neg. beside eachother and two pos. beside eachother,, but you wire it the same i guess,, neg. to neg. and pos. to pos.
EDIT: how come you wrote 750 watts for the amp,, but at the bottom in the specifications, it says if the amplifier sees a 1 ohm load, its 1000 watts? or is 750 watts per sub? i need an amp liek yours 1000watts rms at 1ohm load.
(ex. two channel amp) if the amps bridgeable or sumthing you shud wire both subs to the same terminals to bridge the amp...more power and sounds better, only problem is if your amp isnt stable to it like mine His amp is mono,, so there shud only be two terminals, 1 pos. and 1 neg. and both neg. wires shud go to the neg. on amp and both pos. wires shud go to pos. terminal on amp, some mono amps have two neg. beside eachother and two pos. beside eachother,, but you wire it the same i guess,, neg. to neg. and pos. to pos.
EDIT: how come you wrote 750 watts for the amp,, but at the bottom in the specifications, it says if the amplifier sees a 1 ohm load, its 1000 watts? or is 750 watts per sub? i need an amp liek yours
1000watts rms at 1ohm load.lol the wiring looks exactly like my amps and subs except my amp is 2 channel and it looks exactly like that wen its bridged
Find out what your subs are ,, like the ohm and voice coil of them, then find out how much ohm your amp is stable to, then you can re-wire your system if YOU want to.
except my amp is 2 channel and it looks exactly like that wen its bridgedFind out what your subs are ,, like the ohm and voice coil of them, then find out how much ohm your amp is stable to, then you can re-wire your system if YOU want to.
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