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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I probably should have posted this here first, but I didn't ( shame on me huh?)

I have a 2001 Jeep wrangler, 2.5 engine Auto transmission a Dana 30 175mm differential in front and a Dana 35 188mm differential in the rear both have 3.73:1 gears, don't know what spline size though. the other day during the Nor Easter I went in the field to try to see where the broken power line is at and the Jeep just slowed down to a total stop stuck in the mud. I got out still in 4 low, and looked at the wheels to see how bad it really was, what I saw was the right front and left rear tires spinning and the opposites just sitting there looking pretty, After I got my old 89 S-10 Blazer and pulled the Jeep out ( keep in mind the Blazer don't carte what it pulls or where it goes) I discovered that I have 2 open differentials, I have asked about installing a Aussie Locker on the rear, and I have been told I will ruin the rear end, break it, ream it off, and that the D35 is a pos.
So I'll ask the experts here, if I install a locker in the rear will it destroy the rear end? Will it damage or destroy anything else?

Have fun with this one wrench :)

Oh I already emailed Jeep and Aussie Locker, no emails back yet ( been a week)
 

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That's the problem with open diffs. Is limited slip or posi available?? I agree the locker could ruin something unless it is only used when needed. If you forget to disengage the locker and drive on dry pavement you will ruin something. At least a posi will slip when you are turning (you can hear a clicking sound) preventing damage to the diff.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
the only junk yard around here that carries Jeeps is Johnsons Mustang and Truck parts, and they want as much as new, I checked and Aussie Locker says they operate on dry pavement like an open diff, but I've been around enough to be rather skeptical about that.
I'm looking all over the internet for a limited slip, but I can't find anything under $600-800 that I'd trust. the only thing I have found is a lot of places that say a locker will break the carrier in my D35 or the c clip will fall out and a axle goes where it wants to, either way I don't need that to happen, and I'm kinda scared to take it off road with opens.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Everybody can sell me one that fits, its just that some of them including factory ones require changing the pinion shaft like if I was changing gears, which I don't want to do cause then the back and front would be different. the Aussie locker is a type of Lunchbox locker, which is one type that uses the current carrier, but replaces the spider gears, so basically I yank the carrier, pull the pin, dump the spider gears, drop in the Aussie Locker, and put it back in, the pinion never moves, so theirs no shimming involved, they make different kinds both LSD and Locker, problem is the Aussie is only 249, which I might be able to afford come tax time after I order a new soft top. I'm still looking for a LSD, gonna call Hidust4X4 here in a few and see what they say about it.
 

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The front and back have to stay the same ratio, What I was thinking is some are shared among other manufacturers, I know I have in older models used dodge parts in jeeps but I can't say that practice continued into the newer models.
The Aussie I not a fan of only seen a couple and they didn't last long on the street.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The Aussie I not a fan of only seen a couple and they didn't last long on the street.
Thanks Wrench, THAT'S the magic sentence I was looking all over the internet for :) Now I guess I'll just keep the opens on her for now. I did find a couple of item that I'd rather spend 250 on its from Australia and you slip them under the front end and hit the gas forgot the name but they look liek they work in all conditions in their video, but personally I think I'll spend 250 on a winch first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Command trac, you pull the lever in the cab into 4 High and the little part time light comes on telling me I can't drive it in 4WD on a hard surface. At least that's what the owners manual says
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I have figured out what I'm going to do to counter the possibility of getting stuck again :) After I'm done building my trailer hitch, I'm going to start of a winch mount for the front end :)

Check out my trailer hitch thread after I start it. you might like my design.
 

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If it helps, I have heard you can apply the brakes lightly when stuck (with an open diff) and its suppose to equalize the the resistance of the the spinning tire closer to the one that's not doing anything.
I haven't tried it though, and of course I would suggest trying this carefully and at your own risk. I don't think anything can really happen if your don't slam on the brakes and dont do it all of the time. I would expect the brakes to wear slightly faster if you do this enough though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I gotta try that and post my results LOl, call me a gluten for punishment but if I go straight this time I won't have to pull the Jeep around a high tension pole.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Well I tried it again today, and I still had to use the Blazer to pull it out, but that's not because of the differentials I have its because, I got stuck again because the ground is still deeper than my frame has clearance LOL, but I had my oldest stand outside while I was stuck and watch as I applied teh brakes and the wheels that were not spinning still just sat there doing nothing, so after a actual physical test of the theory, my conclusion is it does not work, BUT I stayd straight in a line this time and all I had to do to get out was pull it 1 foot with the Blazer and she got traction on the two fronts and out she drove. After my test I concluded that two wheels at either end having traction works good enough to pull out in a situation like that.
 
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