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I am a brake specialist on older non abs vehicles, corday's bleeding procedure is CORRECT, clamping off a line is illegal in most states to the best of my knowledge,I would also check the brake master cylinder after you have removed all fluid from the lines, that is easy, once everything is bled and the fluid is all changed out hold pressure on the pedal after pumping it hard three times, if I moves toward the floorboard the master cylinder is leaking internally, also remove the master cylinder from the vac booster, with out loosening the lines and look inside the booster with a flashlight, if you see fluid, the booster will need to be replaced also,
Once I replaced a master cylinder on a Jeep and pumped a entire bottle of brake fluid into the vac booster because of a defective seal
Brakes are my pet peeve, when a car leaves my yard I couldn't care less if it moves forward as long as when that ball comes between two cars and a child follows it you can stop
 

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Are you the original owner?or maybe your father or grandfather, I know this might seem far fetched, but are the bleed screws at the top of the caliper or the bottom?
I've never seen a private person do that, but I have seen brake shops do that

jk4229, I wish you lived here in Northampton county NC or near, I do not charge to look, only to fix, and I charge 30 a wheel for brakes,plus parts
and I PROMISE you it'll stop on a dime and give you 9 cents change and a 1 cent govt kickback when I'm done
 

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Hi My grandfather owned it and he gave it to me. The bleed screws are on the top. I plan to get it to a shop near home at some point, but it is not too important. It is only used around the farm and it isn't licensed. Wolfen1086, I live very near Flandreau, SD. Small town.
Question, if at idle, engine warm and you press the brake, is there ANY change in indicated RPM, or eng sound?
 

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Corday is correct, there is a possible vacuum leak in either the line to the booster or the booster itself
Test it with a soapy water mixture, in a spray bottle, spray everything down with it with the eng running and see if theres any change, believe it or not THAT will save you about three hundred dollars because the mechanics is gonna do the same thing.
Spray the booster, the line where it goes into the booster and the line where it hooks up on the intake manifold first, then spray the line itself, I'm not saying this is your problem, but back in 84 I have a 76 C10 4x4 and no power brakes at all, and it was the rotted grommet that little plastic fitting was in
 

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that's the easiest I can find, everybody that made a video is either confusing or way too long
 

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After what I saw the other day with my sons 0226 Chevy pickup, I'd but ford or dodge or Japan, he was hit diagonally on the front end drivers side in Greenville and it broke the rim, axle both control arme, the eng and trans nounts, fender, entire front end drivers door andf bent the frame,the ford suffered a slight dent in the front end where he smashed into the Chevy, my sons Chevy truck is not totaled and the Ford was able to drive home with no mechanical damage.
 

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No kidding?!
Dead serious truck valued at $6000, damage $5000 and a bent frame, welcome to the new world order where nobody know jack squat about working on a vehicle anymore, just replacing parts
That's why I have respect for you, you at least try to fix your truck and not just throw parts at it
 

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On and I am NOT in canada, thats simply where my vpn says I am currently, Ive been doing research on covid and I don't want the govt tracking me, and that isn't just a current thing, I trust bad brakes on a hill more than the govt LOL
 

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It might it might not, BUT keep in mind head gasket sealers....what else are they sealing? if you do use a QUALITY product, not a elcheapO
 
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