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my system:
mb: asus a8n-sli deluxe edition
amd 64 3700+
antec 500 watt neo he
1 gb corsair ram
(2) 250gb western digital hd's
geforce7800gtx pci express

SO...
I got all of that in the mail this morning from new egg, and i start putting everything together. After assembly was complete, i turned on the computer and it actually worked! now this is the first time i've built a system all by ymself so I was pretty excited. About 10 minutes into installing window the damn thing turns right off.

Now whenever I turn it on, it usually lasts on between 5-10 minutes, and freezes right after bios lists my pci device setttings, right before it should say system boot failure, insert system disc, but it doesnt anymore. It just freezes on that one thing, and then turns off every 5-10 minutes.

I called my local pc shop they said i used to much thermal compound, so i wiped it off with a paper towel, re-applied some more put the heatsink on, fired it up, same thing happens.

the cpu temp has been at like 33-35c
and the m/b temp like 38c

ive double checked every power supply wire, the graphics card, the sata connections on my m/b.

the only thing i noiced was on the 24 pin connecter coming from the power supply there is only 23 pins, i was told by the pc shop that was normal, but just figured i'd throw that in there.

if anyone can think of any possibilities that would happen, or has any questions, ask because i'll be sitting here refreshing every so often.

hope you someone can help me.
 

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@ xclusion
Welcome :smile: . Sounds like you'll have a nice system when you get it going. I was just reading about those new Antec Neo HE PSU's and they sound killer :cool: .
Concerning your trouble, my first guess would also be poor HSF contact like your local shop suggested. But it sounds like your temps ar OK now. I would recommend removing all but the neccesary components and try to fire up. Try firing it up with just the CPU, Video card, one stick of RAM and one HDD connected. Make sure all components and cables are seated firmly and correctly(for your 10th time :smile: ) If that fails, swap the memory sticks. If that is successful, try adding one component at a time. Take note of any error message or beeps you get.

You say it freezes after the PCI device settings, does it stay frozen on that screen or does it go blank or what? Can you access the BIOS?

As for the thermal compound, your temps seem fine but here is a how-to if you want to make sure it is done properly, as it sounds like you may need it later when you get that machine fraggin'
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thanks for the response.

it stays stuck on the pci device listings list, and the last thing it shows is ACPI Controller. To the left of that there is no number. The rest of the list has numbers to the left of whatever the device, etc is.

it doesnt go to a black screen or anything, it just stays there with the "_" flashing kinda like the typing thing, but it wont actually let me type anything.

it actually used to say system error, insert system disc and press enter, so i inserted the windows cd, and then it turned off, now with or witout the windows cd in it still gets stuck at the pci listings screen, and still turns off no matter what i try.

i'll disconnect everything like you said and only run crucial things see if that works
 

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Hello:

two things come to mind

your partiall windows install may be whats stopping you now ???? it was probally the thermal compound & heats issues before but the interupted windows install has most likely written to your drive and gets hung upo there

run this prog (free) to erase you hard drive / it operates in DOS from a floppy so it will give us an good idea if there are other problems with your system because running the drive eraser is independent of windows
http://dban.sourceforge.net/ >>>>> download floppy version


also run Memtest86.com it too loads from a floppy disk / it will check for memory errors / let it run for about an hour


also I have a concern that 500 watts may not be enough juice for an SLI system / those babies are power hungry and VERY finicky about needing very stable juice / the antec is a high quality unit but you need 600 watts to run them well !! If i were in uyour shoes i would be speaking to newegg about exchanging for a 600 watt enermax EP-751 they boast "SLI ready and approved" there is a reason for that !! this is just my two cents worth proceed at your own discretion of course ??!!

dont hesitate to ask more questions

joe
 

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Discussion Starter #6
well it's sad to say i dont have a working floppy drive or disc in this house, i'll disconnect the first sata drive and make the second one the first one and try it again.

thanks for the advice as to the powersupply. I'm just hoping that it's something else, so I dont have to order a new supply and wait :(
 

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Discussion Starter #8
okay so by disconnecting both hard drives, it goes back to boot disc failure insert system disc and press enter.

i still have the problem of it turning off by itself
 

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with no drives attached the system shuts down on its own / if this is correct there arent many things that can cause that >>> this is a safety feature being activated !!

1. too much heat >> if the cpu gets too hot auto shutdown will occur ~~ some of the causes of too much cpu heat i.e thermal paste is too thick / or has been distrubed >> if you apply thermal grease and heat sink you CAN NOT remove the heat sink and just put it back on / once you have broken the original bond caused by the heatsink and cpu thermal grease then you MUST remove the thermal grease completely, clean off both surfaces of the cpu and heat sink then start the application over

b: the heat sink is not secure enough / if the heatsink can be wiggled or wobbles much when touched there is not sufficent pressure to make a good contact of the heat sink and cpu surface ???

C: voltage instability / the if quality or consistiency of the power being supplied to the system varies hardly at all the system will do an auto shutdown ?????? SLI systems generally need about 16amps on each 12V rail to run correctly add the 20% efficiency buffer required and bingo you need at least 20 amps on each 12V rail to run smoothly >>>>> I doubt a 500 watt PSU can deliver 20 amps on both rails ???????

D: memory errors / try to get memtest86.com downloaded (free) to a floppy disk and run from the floppy drive with no hard drives attached (you will need to change or make sure the floppy drive is the first boot device in the bios boot order) let run for atleast an hour to check for memory problems is you memory guarantteed to work with your board ????? the memory makers website should have a memory selector or configurator to establish you model number memory is compatible for your mobo ?????

which of the symptoms above applies to your systems ?????????

I strongly urge you go to a computer store or bestbuy - compusa etc and buy a floppy drive / when a system gets all weird and flaky a floppy drive to run DOS based diagnostic utilities is a MUST have and they are dirt cheap $10.00 to $15.00 bux


regards

joe
 

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Discussion Starter #10
a applies to me, i took it off to see if it spread right, but in bios the temps read 37 degrees before it turns off, or around the time it turns off.

i dont know how to check all the stuff about power and rails and whatever but I was pretty sure antec was a good brand name.

i'll have to check into the memory thing.

on an old ide hard drive that I have, but somethings wrong with it, like i can't boot from it...i plugged that in, i see the windows xp screen and the comp restarts, instead of it getting stuck at the pci device listings screen.

is it possible for both of the brand new wd hd's to have gone bad? or someone said something about the partial windows install maybe having something to do with it.

if the power supply isnt enough power then thats an easy fix, i'll re-apply the thermal paste.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
so i went to best buy and talked to "geek squad" tey told me to swap out the poer supply,so i bought a new one, and it still does the same ****.

he said its probably a bad board, so should I give them 60 dollers to try and diagnois it, and fix it...or should i have new egg send me a new board.
 

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have the geek squad diagnosis it ?????? well thats your call / it may be the fastest solution ????

i highly doubt you have two bad western ditital hard drives / you chances of winning the lottery are almost as good

I would remove the thermal grease off both surfaces and reapply / remember all that is need is a spot in the middle of the cpu about the size of a grain of white rice / then push the heat sink down and secure too much grease is just as bad as not enough !!

what size Power supply did they try when they were testing ?????

i doubt you board is bad ! but its not ruled out of course

your old hard drive will not run on your new system because the OS was installed while living in a different hardware enviro = motherboard

antec is a very good quality PSU / but it needs to be atleast 600 watts and good quality ????? what make and model did they sell you / return it its not an enermax EG 701 or equilivant / no house brand or generic psu is going to power your system correctly !!

did you get the floppy drive to run memtest with ???????
regards

joe
 

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The PSU is always one of the first things to look at especially with a SLI system. If all else fails return the board to newegg and get a new one. Get some Arctic Silver 5 and apply it according to their websites instructions.

Arctic Silver 5
 

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Discussion Starter #14
i re-applied the thermal paste, according to the directions someone posted above.

the power supply was the antec 500 watt neo he. Everyone else but you guys says that much power should be efficient. I'm not running dual graphics cards, only running one.

I didnt get to do the floppy test yet, as I have to leave for the weekend. Geek Squad charges 70 bucks just to look at the god damn thing, so Im trying to figure out exactly what it is, for if its the board i wasted my 70 dollers.

so my choices are:

a.)disconnect the entire system, including re-doing the thermal paste AGAIN (temps in bios are 33c for cpu, 34c for m/b) then re-build it all back up.

b.) return the antec power supply and buy a 600 watt power supply from comp usa and try that (i can't order anything else with the credit card i used to buy the parts) then try doing that.

c.) pay geek squad, compusa, or pcw computers to diagnois it/try to fix the problem.

d.) return the board to newegg have them send me a new one.


My old HD using IDE loads up fine in safe mode, and I can look at all my files, and even get to the device manager and it recognizes everything. The only other problem I had was getting my USB mouse to work, I had to use a ps/2 mouse. Not sure if thats because drivers werent working, or what.

but regardless, the computer still turns off after 10 minutes. My guess would have been the power supply just lke you guys, but so many people are telling me the board, and i'm so confused on what to do.

i want to find the quickest, simpliest solution so I can start using a real computer again.
 

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Well i guess you could eliminate one of the options by having the board replaced / but I think you have to send the board to the manufactuer (call newegg)

could be a memory error ??????? run memtest if possible


did you check the corsair website to be sure your memory is the right model for your board ???????????



cheers

joe
 

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Your confusion arises from the fact that we cannot just say that it is one component or another. We can not pinpoint every problem by posting on a forum. What we can do is draw on our experience to give you things to check and try which may allow you to discover what is wrong with your system.

Lets just assume that your 500 watt PSU is enough power to run your system, at least in an idle state. This does not mean that the PSU is not the problem. It could be that after 10 minutes it heats up and there is a flaw that causes the PSU to experience a failure. The same thing applies to every component in the system.

Therefore we remove or substitute as many components as we can to isolate and eliminate components from the issue. Strip the motherboard of all connections except the PSU, Fans, Video card, Monitor, keyboard and 1 stick of Ram.

Unplug the mouse, speakers, usb devices etc. Disconnect the power switch. momentarily short the 2 pins that the power switch was connected to and go into Bios, select the hardware monitor screen. Watch temps and voltages for anything abnormal.

Check it every so often to see if you can still select things in the bios. Do this and see how long it runs before freezing.

Does it still freeze up?

If so you may have to try this with a different Video Card, then a different PSU or another stick of ram.

Try the mobo out of the case, put it on a cardboard box or other non conductive surface.

Clear the Bios.

If it still fails after all this then the problem is the mobo or the CPU. I would then exchange both.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I really appreciate all your help, as I've tried everything everyones told me to do, it is still turning off after 10 minutes. Nothing seems abnormal in bios, cpu temp everything looks completely normal.

i guess i'll have to wait a while and return the board and the proccessor to new egg and have them ship me new ones :(
 

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@ xcursion
Just a wild stab at something since I have just reread this whole thing. What is your boot order? I was wondering if you have a floppy drive listed in your boot order, yet no floppy drive. You might have to disable floppy's in BIOS so your system won't look for a floppy. You might also want to check that the correct HDD is listed in your boot order as well. It can sometimes take a bit of fidgiting with to get the right drives listed in the right order.

Thought #2, does it actually shut off(versus just 'freeze') after 10 minutes? Is this always after the exact same amount of time has past? You might have some sort of auto-power-down attribute selected in BIOS or your partial WinXp install.

I still think you should be able to access/boot up into WinXP using the startup disc in your CD-ROM and have the ROM listed in your boot order. From there you should be able to repair or reinstall WinXP.

I also personally think your PSU is a good one even WITH using SLI(which I know you are not...yet :deveous: ). As I have been reading from a trusted source SPCR(<link for a NeoHE430 review, but the 500 is mentioned) the new Antec Neo HE series is very conservatively rated at that power level continuously(not 'peak')at 50C degrees(not 25C)! That is a much higher and more realistic rating that 99% of other PSU manufacturers. The Neo HE also has in its manual the correct cabling to use when using SLI/Crossfire as it has THREE 12V lines available.
 

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Have you tried "bench" testing the system outside of the case yet ?????
using just motherboard, cpu, one stick memory, video card & power supply ????????????? case shorts are a common causes of shut downs !!


what have you got to lose ??????


joe
 
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