You can see it go through all the errors here. It takes almost half an hour, but maybe you don't need to watch it all, just enough to get an idea of what is happening. I was just trying to be thorough.
A startup repair takes time. What happens after it finishes the startup repair? Does it run well? Did you restart it after you used it for a while to see if it loads right away?
This whole process, give or take 10-20 minutes, in the video starts every time I cold boot my computer. In this case (unless I don't know the term correctly) meaning after I shut the computer down completely, using the shut down option in Windows 10.
Hi, could be any number of reasons, first if you have fast start active turn it off.
Next open Msconfig and go to the "boot" tab put a check in "boot log" when you start, a boot log is produced to see this go to c:\windows\ntblog.txt (opens in notepad)
You can also see what is happening at boot , open a cmd prompt as admin and run this cmd:-
I wonder how long I have to go back to Windows 7. I know you don't want to do that because there are not more updates being made for it.
But, if I could go back, I'd have more time to go back again if I upgrade to Windows 10, it would reset/give me more time
Someone who helped fix my USB port on my laptop (not my desktop, that this is the problem on in this thread) with a remote session is saying I should run windows 10 one memory stick at a time (I have 6 in right now, totalling 48GB) and see if these problems still happen when I boot, with each. Wasn't sure if he was right, that we should follow what the errors the BSOD's give me when I boot up, they might not mean memory errors.
I did a test with memtest for 11 hours on all 6 sticks and I didn't get any errors, though I have in the past got memory management BSOD's when I was running windows 7 with these same memory sticks in.
I don't have the power options app in windows 10 to be able to even see if it's on or off, and it says my system can't run it when I try to open it with search/run.
Next open Msconfig and go to the "boot" tab put a check in "boot log" when you start, a boot log is produced to see this go to c:\windows\ntblog.txt (opens in notepad)
I've attached it, but this time I had an easy bootup, not sure it will show you any of the problems in the video. I'm sure that bootup is temporary and I will get it again, just didn't today. I'll have to wait until a slow error-prone one happens.
You can also see what is happening at boot , open a cmd prompt as admin and run this cmd:-
I don't have the power options app in windows 10 to be able to even see if it's on or off, and it says my system can't run it when I try to open it with search/run.
This time I had a harder time starting up, and here is the new startup log, looks like it doesn't separate each individual startup you do, though. Or maybe you have to delete the log for it record a new one, I'm not sure.
Hi, yes use only windows defender it is all a home user needs. Uninstall Acronis (you can reinstall it later) Go to your MB manufacturers web site and download the latest chipset drivers for your machine.
I've been told you can use every anti-malware on the planet and still have malware, though someone told me once hitman has never failed them. Why do you think Windows defender is all you need for ALL your malware? Haven't you ever found some malware with another anti-malware that WD did NOT detect?
Go to your MB manufacturers web site and download the latest chipset drivers for your machine.
You cannot have more the 1 Anti-Virus software on your computer or they will conflict.
Windows Security (Defender) is a part of Windows, they have made great improvements on it and it works flawlessly in Windows and is updated in Windows Update.
If you install any other AV software (ie) Norton, McAfee, Avast etc, it will disable Windows Defender, because they conflict. All other AV programs have a big foot print and give false positives and block downloads on certain web pages.
That is not to say that you shouldn't have other Malware removal tools. the Free versions of ADWCleaner, and Malwarebytes or Hitman Pro are great to have in your toolbox. As long as you don't use their Premium versions and have them load at startup, they work in tandem with Windows Security to keep you very safe.
Ok, I uninstalled Emsisoft and Acronis and did the clean boot of Windows 10. the Clean boot booted a lot easier than any other reboot, only took about 3-4 minutes
But, should we try a cold boot, from when the computer is completely shut down, for comparison? How do you know the two won't be different in thier results of starting up?
Hope I'm using that term correctly, What I mean is my computer is shut down, but it is connected to a power outlet, there is still some power, a few lights on, etc.
If cold boot means starting it from totally having no power- such as when I unplug it, press down the power switch to draiin the power, then plug it back in and press the power button, then it's not a cold boot.
Cold Boot= Computer is totally shut down, not restarted, Sleep or Hibernation. No fans or lights should be on, except the link light on the Ethernet cable. Start the computer from this state as if it has never been turned on.
Make sure Clean Boot steps are still enabled.
Also, download HDTune, not Pro from my signature. Go to the Error Scan tab, do a full Error Scan, not quick. This will take some time. At the end of this scan, If all of the boxes are Green, the HDD/SSD is Healthy. If any of the boxes are RED, Then there is no reason to complete the test. The Drive needs to be replaced.
They are, I get no error messages booting now but it always takes 8-9 minutes
Also, download HDTune, not Pro from my signature. Go to the Error Scan tab, do a full Error Scan, not quick. This will take some time. At the end of this scan, If all of the boxes are Green, the HDD/SSD is Healthy. If any of the boxes are RED, Then there is no reason to complete the test. The Drive needs to be replaced.
Yes, the clean boot steps are still enabled. I don't getany error messages starting up now, just takes 9 minutes. You don't have a signature, but is this it, no newer version?
Windows 10 can still be installed free with a Windows 7 code so why screw around with update process that failed in almost every case anyway? Upgrading Windows 7 to Windows 10 just brings forward some incompatible process and tries to meld it into the system but it never will. I cannot remember any free upgrade to Windows 10 that ever ran right so why not just do a clean install here using the Media Creator Disk with your Windows 7 COA? Choose the second option make an iso disk or use usb flash drive: https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10
You mean, as if I installed Windows 10 on an OS with no OS on it in the first place? Only thing thing with that is I'd need to reinstall everything, which is thing I try to avoid like the plague, I hate when I have to do that.
The free version of HDTune doesn't have it listed that it's for Windows 10, but do I have to boot from a disk/USB stick that has it on it- guessing not- if that's the case why does it even mention the OS if it's not involved?
the free version of HDTune is for Windows 10 and all previous versions. If you have a version of HDTune that works then run the Error Scan. If the drive is healthy,(ie) All Green Boxes,
then, as Rich-M suggested, you can Upgrade to Windows 10 directly from the link Rich provided while keeping your programs and files.
Or you can choose to use the Media Creation Tool on that same page and burn it to a USB Flash Drive. Then, with that in your computer while in Windows, choose to Upgrade keeping your files.
But I've already upgraded to windows 10. Can't upgrade if I already have, unless you mean in some other way. He's saying in his post before this one I will have to reinstall everything.
One of the beauties of Windows 10 is the repair install, which differs from a feature update only in that you use the same version's ISO that you already have. And you can choose to keep all existing apps and files.
If you upgraded to version 1909, then you're going to have to do a feature update to Version 2004 at this point. If there are problems after that then do the repair install on Version 2004, but I'd be willing to bet the feature update itself has the potential to fix whatever is going on.
It's not common, but it's not unheard of, either, for an upgrade from Windows 7 to Windows 10 to have issues, particularly if the condition of the Windows 7 on which the upgrade was done was not meticulous to begin with. Doing a repair install tends to "blow out the cobwebs" when that's the case.
Like stancestans my two desktops and laptop are up under 10 seconds every time. You have wasted more time procrastinating and waiting and wondering about whether or not you will have issues than if you had done a clean install in the first place.
I'm on an 11 year old laptop (not my go to computer). Done the clean install 4 times on it. Wife uses it on trips (separate account). If you want to make it easier, write down the programs you want to use and everything else should be on a portable backup.
Think I may try the repair install first. I have done a clean install for viruses and malware, not for an upgrade from one Windows type to another though, think I'll see how the repair install works.
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