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Yikes...wth happened to my PC?

This is a discussion on Yikes...wth happened to my PC? within the RAM and Power Supply Support forums, part of the Tech Support Forum category. Yesterday I felt so proud. As a non techie, I bought some new Arctic Silver paste and reseated my heatsink


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Old 02-26-2009, 12:02 PM   #1
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Yesterday I felt so proud. As a non techie, I bought some new Arctic Silver paste and reseated my heatsink to my CPU. It all seems to work fine and the CPU seems to be running a tad cooler, but today my computer does not work at all.

Last night, I saw a Bios 'update' screen that I've never seen before. It went through an update but then never launched XP.Today, I can't get Windows to get past the first screen where it shows the motherboard, bios set up, etc. It just sits there. At one point, my monitor shows 'no signal'. THen I would have to reboot. Then it freezes at the same point. I press Del to get into the BIOS but it won't budge.

What did I do? What can I do at this point?
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Old 02-26-2009, 12:06 PM   #2
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My computer has never updated the BIOS...Ever. Nor have I ever heard of it.
I think that might be your problem.
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Old 02-26-2009, 12:15 PM   #3
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I thought that was strange too. I've never had that happened. But the messages says not to turn off or reset computer. Has anyone else had this happened? What happens now?

Right at this very moment, I am putting in the XP disc to go through repair options, but it is also not working. Where it says, "Setup is load files (Windows Executive)......

But it stays there for 15 minutes now.

If anyone can help me, I'd be grateful.

Thanks.
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Old 02-26-2009, 12:53 PM   #4
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Quick update:

Well after restarting and rebooting, I decided to remove a few items (one stick of memory and unplugged one of my hard drive) I saw the lovely "Windows" logo screen. This is the furthest I've gone all day. It was going to launch onto the desktop but then I heard that small tone, which indicates that it's about to reboot by itself. Sure enough, the screen blacked out and now it's rebooting again. I'm at the Windows log screen but the status bar at the bottom is completely frozen. As I'm typing this, the PC automatically shuts itself off. I press the power button and NOTHING.

My god what has happened here? Is it possibly the power supply? I replaced it a few months ago. It's a 550w power supply.
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Old 02-26-2009, 01:38 PM   #5
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What is the brand name of your power supply?
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Old 02-26-2009, 01:49 PM   #6
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Can you get into your BIOS yet? It is possible your CPU is not cooler at all. If you can't get anywhere to monitor the temp how do you know it is cooler? It could be shutting itself down to prevent damage.
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Old 02-26-2009, 02:10 PM   #7
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It's called a Diablo Black Chrome 550w. I got it brand new on Ebay. I took it apart, blew in some air to get rid of some dust, screw it back on, connected all the power plugs, flicked the switch in the back (it turned orange) and it the power switch on the PC and NOTHING.
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Old 02-26-2009, 04:57 PM   #8
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I am not familiar with that brand...but brand names are important...You might find the following helpful.

Things to think about...in relation to the negative effects of heat on the computer...That can be caused by the power supply.

Manufacturers test their PSU's at a set temperature...from this their rating is determined... for most this No. is 25 degrees Celsius...which falls short of the temperature that most computers are capable of achieving.

Given that a PSU will actually lose 2-5 watts per one degree of heat above the 25 Degree Celsius testing temperature...coupled with the fact that computers tend to run at 10 degrees higher than room temperature... In the summer time when the room temperature can easily reach 80 degrees F... your computer will be running at 33 Degrees C. or 90 Degrees F.

So the...math can make...your 500 watt power supply into a 460 watt unit.

In addition to this...what needs to be taken into account is that each degree that your computer components are operating at...under powered...adds more heat to the equation.

Consider also...the possibility...that ratings given by the manufacturer of single components...such as graphics cards. need to be treated with skepticism. Manufacturers may minimize support issues and under rate the power required...in order to make a larger profit.

The above has not taken into account...the issue of high quality vs poor quality units...Power supplies convert voltages from wall outlets to lower levels used by the PC. During this conversion, some power is lost as heat. The efficiency level of the PSU determines how much extra power must be put into the power supply to run the PC. A high quality PSU can help reduce the noise and heat generated within a computer system. The higher the efficiency rating the less heat the PSU has to deal with.

Therefore heat is the computers enemy...The hotter the temperature your PSU is forced to run at...the poorer the supply of power the rest of the components will receive...which has been known to lead to such things as crashes, freezing, rebooting, BSODís, and video distortion, as well as partial and complete failure of other components.

The fact is very few PSUís are capable of producing the wattage that the companies advertise.

I suggest...a quality 550w PSU...as the minimum one should purchase...to provide power to a PCIE card. But for a very good comprehension of recommended brand names, wattage, and models in listed categories...Plus much more...check out this link.
https://www.techsupportforum.com/f210...on-192217.html
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Old 02-26-2009, 05:16 PM   #9
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Curious, when you reapplied your arctic silver paste did you disconnect your power supply? Long shot here but double check all your connections and be certain your heat sink is properly seated. If all else fails nothing to lose by resetting your BIOS on the motherboard by jumper or switch whichever applies. Disconnect power supply. BOLWT.
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Old 02-26-2009, 05:46 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nexxtech View Post
Curious, when you reapplied your arctic silver paste did you disconnect your power supply? Long shot here but double check all your connections and be certain your heat sink is properly seated. If all else fails nothing to lose by resetting your BIOS on the motherboard by jumper or switch whichever applies. Disconnect power supply. BOLWT.

Just went to Best Buy and picked up a Rocket Fish 550w ps. Installed and it powered up.

When I reseated my CPU, the power was disconnected. I actually had to do it TWICE. The first time, the CPU still ran hot at around 60C and that was just browsing the internet (no games etc.). I removed it again, cleaned it again, and reapplied the paste. Made sure it's locked down. Then turned it on and found out it was running 55C.

Last question is how do I reset the BIOS?
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Old 02-26-2009, 06:11 PM   #11
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I'm not sure what your saying at this point. If you purchased a new PSU and your machine is posting great.

In my experience when I repaste and reseat a CPU and heat sink I lightly scrape both surfaces with a razor blade to assure a clean level surface. This allows the paste to properly seal both surfaces and lower CPU temps.

Clear the BIOS or reset the BIOS jumper is usually found in the area of your nickle coin CMOS battery. Set from 1,2 default to 2,3 clear for a few minutes, then set back to 1,2. Removing and reinstalling the battery can sometimes help if your machine will still not post. Let us know.
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Old 02-26-2009, 06:50 PM   #12
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did u get shocked in anyway will installing arctic silver? Also sometimes artic silver can short circuit some devices.
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Old 02-26-2009, 07:24 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nexxtech View Post
I'm not sure what your saying at this point. If you purchased a new PSU and your machine is posting great.

In my experience when I repaste and reseat a CPU and heat sink I lightly scrape both surfaces with a razor blade to assure a clean level surface. This allows the paste to properly seal both surfaces and lower CPU temps.

Clear the BIOS or reset the BIOS jumper is usually found in the area of your nickle coin CMOS battery. Set from 1,2 default to 2,3 clear for a few minutes, then set back to 1,2. Removing and reinstalling the battery can sometimes help if your machine will still not post. Let us know.
I made sure the surface was very clean when I reseated the CPU. I don't know if that's the problem anymore.

When you say, "Set from 1, 2 default to 2,3 clear for a few minutes" what do you mean? I see where the CMOS battery is. In fact I removed it and put it back in.

Take a look at the picture posted here and see

Right now, I have a new problem. When I start my PC, I hear a soft tone coming from my DVD drive followed by a scratching noise. Tone...scratch...tone...scratch...tone...scratch. It sounds like the DVD drive is trying to load something. In the meantime, the screen is black and Windows is not launching. On top of that, not only will both the DVD drive/DVD-RW drive not ejecting, but I cannot power down unless I manually flick the switch behind the power supply.

Nothing is going right at this point.
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Old 02-26-2009, 07:35 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vodka View Post
did u get shocked in anyway will installing arctic silver? Also sometimes artic silver can short circuit some devices.
No. I wore my wrist strap so no shock.
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Old 02-27-2009, 08:16 AM   #15
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Below your battery towards the bottom of your photo I can read CLR CMOS. I can't see your jumper but it should be there. You also mentioned you took out a stick of ram did you try one stick only? Try all your sticks this way. Try unplugging your DVD and CD devices and boot. I'm seen CD devices cause a machine not to post. Do you have another PSU to try or borrow and or another CPU? I would also replace your CMOS battery.
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Old 02-27-2009, 08:47 AM   #16
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did you apply the paste correctly

https://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_s...structions.htm

what are you running
video card
cpu
m/board
ram
power supply
brand
wattage

check the listings in the bios for voltages and temperatures and post them



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Old 02-27-2009, 11:00 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nexxtech View Post
Below your battery towards the bottom of your photo I can read CLR CMOS. I can't see your jumper but it should be there. You also mentioned you took out a stick of ram did you try one stick only? Try all your sticks this way. Try unplugging your DVD and CD devices and boot. I'm seen CD devices cause a machine not to post. Do you have another PSU to try or borrow and or another CPU? I would also replace your CMOS battery.
Take a look at this. Based on what you see, what EXACTLY should I do? I'm going to the computer store right now to buy a bigger PSU (600w or more) and a new CMOS battery.

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Old 02-27-2009, 12:51 PM   #18
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Your board has a solder point jumper to clear your CMOS. I would refer to your manual for instructions on clearing it. If you notice in the bottom right corner of your photo (short, clear CMOS is displayed).

Your actual jumper I believe is just to the right of your Chipset fan plug. The square one that connects the white line to your letter C on CLR. I believe you can use a jumper (like one on a hard drive master setting) to clear your CMOS.

Here is a former reference posted by TSF. https://www.techsupportforum.com/f15/...er-315311.html
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Old 02-27-2009, 03:13 PM   #19
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Thanks everyone for your help. Last night around 2am I was ready to hit the 'Submit Order' button on my new computer I was going to buy online. But wanted to wait to see what everyone had to say about my current problem.

I went out to Micro Center, picked up a new CMOS battery and a new Antec 650w PSU.

To summarized, I got the thing back up with a strong heartbeat.

My only problem now is when I run the 'Core Temp' software, it shows 90-94C. That can't be right. I went into BIOS and adjusted the time/date and looked up the CPU and it said 52C with the fan speed running at 2008 RPM.

So what why is the CORE TEMP saying in the 90s? I just reseated the CPU for the 3rd time. This time I only used one drop of thermal paste. I used plastic to smear the whole top of the CPU. All is left is a slight haze.
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Old 02-27-2009, 08:53 PM   #20
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what does this give the temps as

https://www.cpuid.com/pcwizard.php

what cpu is in it



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