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[SOLVED] PC not turning on after all power being cut

This is a discussion on [SOLVED] PC not turning on after all power being cut within the RAM and Power Supply Support forums, part of the Tech Support Forum category. Hello guys, my PC has a weird problem with turning on after I remove the plug from a power source


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Old 06-10-2014, 04:55 PM   #1
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Hello guys,

my PC has a weird problem with turning on after I remove the plug from a power source or just leave it off for a long time. The motherboard yellow/green/whatever signal light stays on, but when I press the power button, it starts to flicker very rapidly. If I let go of the button, it either reverts back to being on, or stays flickering in which case I have to cut all power, wait for it to turn off, and try again.

I have to press the power button really rapidly and eventually the yellow light starts flickering slower and slower and my PC turns on, after which I have literally no problems with it. Everything runs smoothly and the temperatures look fine, but I see a pretty alarming voltage statistic, as you can see in this image:



I think everything is fine (disregarding the TMPIN2 value whatever weird mistake that is) except for that 3.3V readout. I think 3.12V is a bit low, am I wrong? Everything else looks alright. My PSU is pretty old and I know you guys don't like the brand and have a lot of bad experiences with it but I've been using it for 6 years already without a problem. I do think it is the most likely problem right now though. I'll list all my specs after writing this, but it is a Chieftec CFT600W power supply, or something similar, I can't quite remember (but it is 600W).

I've checked all the power cables and they're connected properly. This started randomly, without me changing anything about my PC. Do you think it is the PSU that is causing this, and do you think I should change my PSU regardless because of that voltage? The motherboard, for reference, is an ASUS M5A97 PRO. I keep my PC on at all times and just put it to sleep when I'm away (when I put it to sleep, it wakes up normally, also restarts normally), so it is inconvenient for things to continue to be like this.

Thanks in advance for any responses!
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Old 06-10-2014, 06:09 PM   #2
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To which LED are you referring

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If you mean the green SB_PWR, it should always be on steady as long as the power supply is plugged in and powered on, regardless whether or not the PC is powered up. If that is off or flickering, the motherboard is sensing an invalid or unstable voltage level.

This usually indicates a failed/failing power supply, but there could also be an issue within the sense circuitry of the motherboard itself. I've seen several Asus boards that seem to be extremely picky when it comes to voltage levels.

PS: You are correct in that the 3.3 volt line is out of spec low. The +12 volt is also reading low but is still within spec.
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Old 06-10-2014, 06:23 PM   #3
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It is indeed the SB_PWR. The other LEDs take their turns to light up red and turn off after a second or so during the boot (but I've seen other ASUS motherboards do this too, so I'm not worried about that). It never goes off, it just flickers when the power button is pressed down. I really have to hammer on the button for several minutes at this point (it's gotten progressively worse) to turn it on, so now I never hard boot at all, just put the PC in sleep mode.

I believe the PSU used to show a lot better 3.3V reading a few years ago, when I had some other PC problems that I've since resolved. This forum kept telling me it was my PSU because of the particular model that I had, but in the end it was a faulty Gigabyte motherboard. It looks like the PSU is finally going, and at 6 years for a price of 80 euros I think it's about right.

I don't have a suitable PSU to replace this one with in order to test if it is the PSUs fault, I only have a very old 450W supply. Do you think I should just hook the motherboard, CPU and HDD to it (not even GPU) to test if it will boot instantly, then power it off to avoid damage?

Also, if I have to get a new one, can you help me choose a good quality one? I'm willing to go Chieftec again but I know this forum doesn't recommend it. The place I live has a very low amount of Corsair stuff so I only managed to find one suitable model, the CX750, and a Cooler Master G750M. Both are Channelwell semi-modulars, just like my Chieftec CFT-600W-14C was, so will I be fine with it? I'm currently running a GTX460, but I'm going to upgrade to something more modern in a few months, so I'm thinking 750W is an okay amount of head room, but if I want to put the GTX460 into the second PCI-E x16 slot and SLI it with the new card, how much power will that demand?

Thanks for the answer, by the way!
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Old 06-10-2014, 07:13 PM   #4
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First of all, SLI requires two identical cards, so unless you're planning on purchasing a second 460, you should drop that idea.

As far as wattage capacity of the new supply, a 750 would carry anything out there, but you could scale back to 650 or even a 550 watt for all but the highest end cards.

PS: Take a look for a XFX Core series supply. Very high quality but usually reasonably inexpensive and widely available.
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Old 06-10-2014, 07:34 PM   #5
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Hmm, I don't know why I thought that would work either. I've always gone single GPU and I like it that way.

I'm also thinking of upgradability in the future, so do newer cards tend to draw more power? Or do cards of new series draw similar power to the last series? I remember this being a trend, especially with AMD, but I'm not sure.

Just checked and yeah, can't find XFX PSUs anywhere. I'm out of luck I guess, but my country has a very limited supply of these. We only really have a good Cooler Master, Seasonic, Chieftec and Thermaltake supply. Which brand is the most suitable? My budget would be like 90 euros max or so.
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Old 06-10-2014, 10:36 PM   #6
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Quick question, is your CPU overclocked?
Around 50c is pretty warm for idle, and it's voltage seems a bit high, but that can depend on the model.
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Old 06-11-2014, 12:37 AM   #7
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Just to add if you removing the plug you should be switch the psu off by it's switch before doing so. Not doing this can create a surge which is bad.

Also a 1.4 vcore looks pretty high, as Panther asked are you overclocking?
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Old 06-11-2014, 01:09 AM   #8
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The flickering light on the power button reminded me of an old Dell system I once owned, a Capacitor was swelling and causing issues, but it ran like that for over 6 months before finally dying.
The light on the Dell was orange when faulty, green when good.
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Old 06-11-2014, 02:52 AM   #9
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Yes, I am doing a slight overclock. But I checked to see if this is the problem, so immediately after encountering this problem I reverted to default settings, and the problem is exactly the same (the 3.3v voltage in HWmonitor as well). The BIOS readouts for the voltages are a bit different though, the 12V line reports a 11.988, and the 3.3V line reports a 3.288V, OCd or not. The 5V line is always near dead center as in the picture.

Under full load in prime95 + furmark, the 12V stays the same, very rarely goes to 11.78 or so for a split second before going back to the 11.8xx value in the picture above, the 5V and the 3.3V don't change at all.

The temperature is very high because the room temperature right now is very high as well for me, although I have an aftermarket cooler (not a very expensive one but it keeps the CPU under the recommended AMD temp of like 62C). When it's idle it runs on very low RPM, and it takes a bit to speed up, so it was just speeding up from about 600 to 1000RPM in the image, and the temps went down after I took it. The core values are also considerably lower than the CPU value reported by HWmonitor, so in core temp they are about 28C or so when idling, and about 40 at load. I think the temps are okay even with the OC (from 3.6 to 3.9). I'm away from home right now so I don't have an AC, but when it's running the PC temps are quite lower still.

Do you think the OC might've damaged my motherboard in some way?
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Old 06-11-2014, 03:47 AM   #10
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so what is your vcore now?

As 1.4 was too high
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Old 06-11-2014, 04:27 AM   #11
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About 1.2 or so, when OCd the Vcore is pretty much stuck to 1.4, no fluctuation between load and idle.
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Old 06-11-2014, 04:40 AM   #12
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1.4 was too high even for a high overclock never mind a small one. 1.2 sounds right for normal.
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Old 06-11-2014, 06:01 AM   #13
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Got it. I understand the core voltage raises the temperature a lot, is there any other danger to having it be that high? I'll revert to normal clock if it's dangerous, or tinker manually and try to bring it down, and then test with prime95 for stability.
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Old 06-11-2014, 08:19 AM   #14
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Who overclocked this system? was software used?

You havent posted your specs so knowing what a dangerous vcore would be can't be answered but my cpu which is an i2500k you would be looking at 1.4 on a bad chip for running at 4.8 - 5GHz
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Old 06-11-2014, 09:10 AM   #15
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It's an AMD FX-8150, OC done in the BIOS, I just let ASUS find a stable config on its own, didn't have problems with it so far. I'm going to try and reduce the voltage manually.
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Old 06-11-2014, 10:02 AM   #16
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Okay, after some tinkering I've found that that 1.2V stat was an anomaly or something because it basically refuses to be stable with pretty much anything under the default value of 1.368V, but it goes up to 1.38V under no load even sometimes. This, mind you, is on stock values. What might the problem be so that the voltage is this high on default? I think it's always been like this, around 1.4V, ever since I got the CPU and the MoBo (got them at the same time). The previous processor I had (an Intel Q9550) worked under much lower voltages on the same PSU.

EDIT: After resetting some CPU power saving options, my idle voltage has gone to about 0.8V, but it still goes to 1.392V under full load.
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Old 06-11-2014, 10:39 AM   #17
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please do not tinker, set your BIOS to optimised defaults and leave it because we need to see if you get any issues.

Secondly when you do overclock do not use any auto tune rubbish do everything manually, I will help you if you want to overclock. You could have a bad chip which is why its using a high vcore but you need every setting back at stock first.
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Old 06-11-2014, 10:49 AM   #18
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Sorry dude! I guess I used it because it never gave me any trouble? I'll avoid it in the future though, thanks for the tip.

Secondly, yeah I reset every single option, gone for the optimized default setting, and on it the voltage is 1.368V in bios. I only disabled the power saving options (basically the C1 and C6 states that reduce the clock when idle) because the CPU has this most annoying high pitched whine when it downclocks for whatever random reason. Never noticed it because the options were always disabled I guess. I also disabled onboard audio since I use a PCI-E soundcard.

If (on STOCK settings) I try to lower the default voltage even just by the smallest step available, to like 1.364 or whatever, it freezes in a 5 minute period on Prime95. Thanks for your offer to help me with the OC, but I'd rather solve this issue first.
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Old 06-11-2014, 12:33 PM   #19
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Just letting you know, AMD have a higher stock Vcore than Intel Processors, so it may be within normal range.
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Old 06-11-2014, 12:58 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Panther063 View Post
Just letting you know, AMD have a higher stock Vcore than Intel Processors, so it may be within normal range.
yes I know but with this chip some of them run at 1.2 and the bad ones run at higher than 1.3.

I haven't seen one needing a basic vcore of 1.39 though but it is possible although someone who only ever uses AMD says he overclocked one of these to 4.5 and needed a vcore of 1.55 just to keep it stable.
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