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[SOLVED] Built new PC but now it keeps locking up.

This is a discussion on [SOLVED] Built new PC but now it keeps locking up. within the RAM and Power Supply Support forums, part of the Tech Support Forum category. Hi, I have just built a nice new machine but I'm having a problem with it locking up fairly frequently


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Old 01-15-2010, 01:13 AM   #1
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Hi,
I have just built a nice new machine but I'm having a problem with it locking up fairly frequently - the machine just stop doing anything - mouse / keyboard do not respond, what ever image is on screen at the moment it crashes just stays frozen on screen and there is no hard disc activity at all.

I do not think it is software related as I have set up 3 OSs on here - win XP pro 32bit, win 7 pro 64bit and linux mint 8 64bit and have had this problem in all 3.

I'm not entirely sure what the problem could be so I'm going to include a lot of info here but obviously if anyone out there needs more information please ask,

One theory - I have reused an old(ish) hard drive - this is the only component that is not new - could a failing hard drive cause this, it doesn't seem like a hard drive issue to me because I would have thought if the hard drive had a fault the OS would keep working for a few minutes and only fail next time it needs to read from the drive, but I may be wrong?

The cpu temperature is reported in CMOS to be fairly steady at around 30 degrees C, so thats ok.

Here is a list of all of the CMOS settings that I don't know what they mean, in case any of these are important:

cool 'n' quiet - enabled
cpu phase control - enabled
PCI IDE busmaster - enabled
PCI latency timer - 64
CVM support - enabled
C1E support - disabled
HPET - disabled
Trusted computing TCG/TPM support - no

Finally here is the full spec of the build:

CPU: AMD Phenom II x4 925
RAM: 8GB DDR3
Mobo: MSI 770-C45
VGA: Nvidia gforce EN8400GS 512Mb PCI-E
2x IDE DVD drive
1x 160Gb SATA 2 drive
1x 1TB SATA 2 drive.

Any help will be most appreciated

Joe
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Old 01-15-2010, 02:05 AM   #2
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I did an upgrade build and the only old component was the EIDE drive, it experienced random freezes doing simple tasks like browsing or gaming.

I replaced the drive with a SATA of the same generation as the new mobo and chip and the freezing stopped

If you can get a drive I think that might be the first thing to try
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Old 01-15-2010, 03:26 AM   #3
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Did you wipe the old drive clean when you transferred the drive with the OS on it? One should have either done that or at least done a repair install if the motherboard was a different model.

Please also list the power supply make and wattage.
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Old 01-15-2010, 03:37 AM   #4
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Hi,
Yes I deleted all partitions on the drive before using it, so all 3 OSs are clean installs, not upgrades.
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Old 01-15-2010, 03:55 AM   #5
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power supply is

brand
model
wattage



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Old 01-15-2010, 04:02 AM   #6
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I will check the psu brand and model tonight when I get home and post it, wattage is 750, though I suspect it might not be a major brand name.
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Old 01-15-2010, 11:59 AM   #7
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As I thought, it is not a branded psu, I bought it online, here is some info copied from the item description:


Features

*
High power 750w
*
Supports the Latest Technology:
o
Intel® Core™2 Duo, Intel® Core™2 Quad, Intel® Core™2 Extreme
o
AMD Athlon™ 64/x64FX, AMD Phenom™ , AMD Sempron™
o
Dual Core (Pentium D EE and Athlon64x2) & Dual CPU Systems
*
Increased airflow & cooling with dual 80mm fans
*
Seperate 12V rails meeting UL 240VA safety requirements
*
SATA Power Connector for connecting you system to the faster Serial ATA interface for better performance
*
Automatic Fan Control System
*
High Reliability, the following circuits ensure the systems safety:
o
OCP (Over Current Protection)
o
UVP
o
OVP (Over Voltage Protection)
o
OLP
o
OTP
o
SCP (Short Circuit Protection)
*
EMI Reduction Design
*
100% Burn-In Test / Hi-Pot Test /Vibration Test / Leak Current Test
*
Approved by UL, CSA, TUV, CB, CE, S, N,D,FI & FCC
*
RoHS Compliant



Specification

*
Input:
o
AC input Voltage: 95-132VAC or 190-264 VAC switchable
o
AC input Current: 7A res max. for 115VAC 60Hz, 4A res max. for 230VAC 50Hz
o
Overload protection :150%
*
Output:
o
+5V 36A
o
+3.3V 35A
o
+12V1 18A
o
+12V2 21A
o
-12V 0.3A
o
+5V/SB 2.5A
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Old 01-17-2010, 10:37 AM   #8
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I have replaced the hard drive and still having the same problem.

Does anyone think this could be caused by a faulty mobo or cpu? I'm not sure myself as it works for a while and then just suddenly locks up, would I be correct to think that faulty mobo or cpu would normally not boot up at all?

I guess I will try swapping out the power supply next - will post again when I get a new power supply but in the time until I do get one, I would still really like to hear any other theories, any BIOS settings that I might need to change for example?

Joe
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Old 01-17-2010, 10:55 AM   #9
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sorry the hard drive swop didn't fix it ........

I think my next suspect would be RAM, I would try taking all but one of the sticks out and see how it behaves (apart from slower )

let us know how it goes ?
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Old 01-17-2010, 11:36 AM   #10
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I doubt its the cpu or mobo.

Freezing and lockups are usually caused by bad ram, heat or bad power supplies.

IS the make and model number of the ram definetly compatible with the motherboard?

Can you check the temps and voltages in the bios and post them here?

wattage isn't the major importance when choosing a psu it is amperage you have 39 amps combined on the 12 volt rail which is just enough to run your graphics card and the rest of the system. I would advise replacing that psu regardless of wether this is the cause of your problems or not.

Good power supply brands, corsair, seasonic, CWT, Thermaltake toughpower units only, PC power and cooling and OCZ extreme
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Old 01-18-2010, 02:54 AM   #11
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Ok thats interesting, the RAM came bundled with the mobo, so I doubt there is a compatibiliy issue, when windows does work it reports the full 8GB to be present. I will try installing one DIMM at a time to see if I can find a bad one - thanks for the suggestion ickymay.

I Will check the exact temps and voltages tonight (I'm at work now) but when I first built the machine I looked at them and cpu temp was 33 and all volatages were within 10% tolerance but I will double check tonight.

So greenbrucelee, as you pointed out I have 39amps on the 12v rails, can I ask how many amps should I be looking for on the 12v rails if I get a replacement PSU?

Joe
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Old 01-18-2010, 03:11 AM   #12
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I would always go for one with atleast a 48 amp on the 12volt rail. The corsair 650 TX has 52 and is a really wise investment
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Old 01-18-2010, 04:27 AM   #13
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...thanks

on another point, I have read on another forum that enabling USB legacy support can cause DDR2 issues. Now I have DDR3 but its similar technology, anyone know anything about this?
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Old 01-18-2010, 04:43 AM   #14
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I am not aware of this and have never experienced it.
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Old 01-19-2010, 06:46 AM   #15
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Hi all, heres an update,

I think I can rule out the ram as a suspect. I have removed each DIMM and run the machine using just one then swapped it so that I have booted up the machine with each of the four DIMMs individually and I still have the problem each time - so either the ram is good and not the cause of my problem or there is a fault with all 4 dimms. I then found that when windows 7 boots one of the recovery options is to run a memory test. I did this (with all 4 dimms installed) and no problems were found, so I think the evidence points to something other than RAM - do others agree with me?

So then it looks like the main suspect is the psu. I still haven't bought new psu yet but have seen one in maplin that is 570W and has three 12V rails totaling 50 amps (16amp, 18amp, 16amp) - can someone tell me, is this total amperage the only important point or does it matter how many amps are available on the seperate rails?
It may also be relevant to add here that my gfx card does not have a connector on it for a PCI-E 6pin power connector, so the card must be drawing all of its power via the mobo - should I take that into account when selecting a power supply?
One final point, it is definately the case that the lock ups occur more consistantly with win 7 than linux. I would say that pretty much any time I boot win 7 it locks up within a few minutes, whereas linux seems to only lock up maybe every 5th time I boot it up (roughly). So this leads me to ask what seems like a crazy question, does my pc use more power to run windows than linux? I've enabled all the 3D visual elements in linux to try and level the playing field but the lock ups still happen more frequently in windows.


As ever, thanks to anyone who can offer help or advice.
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Old 01-19-2010, 07:34 AM   #16
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windows will use more cpu resources than linux to run so yes it will use more power.
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Old 01-19-2010, 07:40 AM   #17
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Check this one out for a power supply:

https://www.scan.co.uk/Products/650W-...lly-compatible
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Old 01-19-2010, 08:29 AM   #18
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Thanks for that,
I'm learning a lot about PSUs here, which is good.

So if I've got this right then a single 12V rail is actually better than multiple rails because you've only got one 12V amperage to worry about. Whereas with multiple rails you might not have enough amps on a particular rail for all the devices connected to that rail, even if the total available amps on all rails is enough for all devices on the pc.

Have I got that right?
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Old 01-19-2010, 08:55 AM   #19
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A single rail is normally the best, but if you purchase any Corsair or Seasonic, they will be fine with multiple rail configurations. They are top of the line.
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Old 01-19-2010, 09:02 AM   #20
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it depends on how good the power supply is.

I have a seasonic (seasonic make corsair and seasonic and corsair are the best) and it has 4 12v rails whereas the equivelant corsair has one big 12v rail.

To be honest with having worked on power supplies for sometime I find that with top quality units the one rail being better versus multiple rails being crap is basically a myth it is only when you compair a low quality unit with multiple rails against a good one with single rail will you actually see any difference.

It is a bit like the fact that some people don't like modular power supplies because they believe they loose power and that is basically a myth too.

But the basic maths is correct. The bigger your 12v rail or rails are the better the psu will power the system aslong as it is a good quality unit.

Low quality modular power supplies will loose power because of the design where as top quality modular power supplies don't.
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