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PSU or Motherboard failed?

This is a discussion on PSU or Motherboard failed? within the RAM and Power Supply Support forums, part of the Tech Support Forum category. Hey! So I've been having a lot of issues where one of my drives would suddenly vanish in the BIOS,


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Old 08-23-2017, 06:16 AM   #1
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Hey!
So I've been having a lot of issues where one of my drives would suddenly vanish in the BIOS, either my Sata SSD, or my M.2, both carry an OS at this point due to how frequently they go on/off. My go-to solution to fix one of them being gone has been to take the CMOS battery out, and reset the BIOS, this works about 50% of the time. Today this happened as it does 1-2 times a month, so I took the CMOS out, and did the reset, however when I went into the BIOS, none of the two OS-carrying drives appeared, so I decided to turn the computer off and on again (sometimes works).

The fuse went out as soon as I hit the powerbutton, I went and got the fuse fixed and tried turning the PC on again. However now it won't turn on at all, I've tried different cables and outlets, but to no effect. Additionally the motherboard's LED showing that it receives power is not lighting up.

So my guess here is that either the PSU died, or the Motherboard. I have 2 more years of warranty on the PSU at least, but merely a month left on the motherboard.
Curious if there are any simple solution to test which component is at fault here, other than completely disassembling my computer and testing the PSU/Mobo in someone else's PC.


Specs:
Z97-AR
i5 4690k
2x8 DDR3 RAM
GTX 970
XFX TS650 PSU
Seagate Barracuda 1tb HDD (no os)
Intel 530 120gb (has win8.1)
Intel 600p 240gb (has win10)

Thanks
- Halfswift
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Old 08-23-2017, 08:54 AM   #2
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How To Manually Test a Power Supply With a Multimeter
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Old 08-23-2017, 11:27 AM   #3
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Thanks, would you think this multimeter would suffice? https://m.clasohlson.com/no/UNI-T-UT1...imeter/36-5255
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Old 08-23-2017, 01:08 PM   #4
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I'm afraid I'm not familiar with that model. Nor can I read that page.

Hopefully someone else that is, and/or can, will drop in here soon.
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Old 08-24-2017, 07:58 AM   #5
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Hi there,

I am hoping the fuse power outage didn't take out other of your computer components. I am assuming your didn't have your computer connected to a surge protector w/ battery backup right?

Since the computer doesn't turn on at all, try troubleshooting the power supply first. It's possible you might surely need to disassemble your PC and test the PSU and Mobo onto another, working computer. I recommend testing as much computer components as possible. In addition, test the RAM, and even CPU as well onto another computer.
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Old 08-24-2017, 07:59 AM   #6
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Hi there,

Oops, forgot to provide link to Multi-Meter = https://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...7495-_-Product
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Old 08-24-2017, 08:43 AM   #7
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I am not a fan of using a multimeter to test a PSU because a PSU must be tested under a variety of loads to be tested properly. Plus, most multimeters are incapable of testing for ripple and other anomalies that affect computer stability that may be riding the DC voltage. To conclusively test a PSU, it must be done using an oscilloscope or dedicated power supply analyzer ( sophisticated and expensive test equipment) by a trained technician who can properly interpret the results. This is why for most users, swapping in known good supply is the best, most conclusive, test.

But a meter can be used to see if there is any or no output at all and that UNI-T UT120A multimeter you linked to can do that. But you will need to pull the main 20/24-pin connector and short the two pins as per that guide. A paper clip works for that. Shorting those two pins "tricks" the PSU into thinking it is still connected to the motherboard so it will start.

In the future, I recommend using a decent PSU Tester. These devices take the guess work out of testing, and eliminate the risk of damage from wayward, sharp, highly conductive meter probes. While they only put 1 small "dummy load" on the supply and don't test for ripple, they do conclusively tell you if a voltage is missing, or if one of the voltages is out of tolerance (at least with that load). I keep one of these in the tool bag in my truck for when I make house-calls.
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Old 08-24-2017, 02:12 PM   #8
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Would perhaps only plugging the 24pin into someone else's motherboard, to then see if the "receiving-power-LED" activates be a simpler way to test if it leads power or not? And then do the same thing to my motherboard, but with a different PSU. (Would ONLY doing the 24pin be enough to test it, or would it also require the other psu>motherboard connections?)

I don't really have any easily accessible computers to test with, except for another guy in my dormitory, however I'd prefer it if I wouldn't have to bother him with completely disassembling his PC as well.

And thanks for the replies!
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Old 08-24-2017, 03:13 PM   #9
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Amazon.com > Thermaltake Dr. Power II Automated Power Supply Tester Oversized LCD for All Power Supplies - AC0015 - $31.65
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Old 08-25-2017, 07:31 AM   #10
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Quote:
Would perhaps only plugging the 24pin into someone else's motherboard, to then see if the "receiving-power-LED" activates be a simpler way to test if it leads power or not?
It could work. But consider this. Would you want someone else to plug a "questionable" power supply into your precious motherboard? While not very common these days, it is not unheard of for a faulty power supply to take out the devices connected to it.

Quote:
Would ONLY doing the 24pin be enough to test it, or would it also require the other psu>motherboard connections?
Most motherboards require a secondary "ATX" connector and many graphics cards require 1 or 2 extra power connectors. You would need all those to ensure all the PSU "rails" are checked. You don't need to connect power to any drives.

That TT tester looks nice!
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Old 08-25-2017, 07:50 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill_Bright View Post

That TT tester looks nice!
Easy to use and they work great for a quick check.
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Old 08-25-2017, 08:32 AM   #12
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Quote:
and they work great for a quick check.
Hmmm, I just noticed FrozenPC changed models but kept the same url. So the link (from my canned texts doc) I posted above points to the wrong tester.

While mine has the FrozenPC brand name on it, it is exactly the same as this one. I keep it in my tool bag for road trips and has a full LCD display panel similar to yours. I don't like those with just LED indicator lights as they just tell you a voltage is present and [hopefully] within the ATX Form Factor tolerance of ±5%. Those with actual LCD readouts give you the actual voltage.

I verified mine with my multimeter and it was spot on too!

Sorry if my link to the tester in post #7 above caused any confusion.
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Old 08-28-2017, 02:22 AM   #13
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Thanks for the replies!

I'll be calling the store I bought the components from later today, and if I can't get anything resolved from that, I'll order one of those PSUcheckers and figure out if it's the PSUs fault or not.
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