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Need; PSU, fan(s), plus cooler

This is a discussion on Need; PSU, fan(s), plus cooler within the RAM and Power Supply Support forums, part of the Tech Support Forum category. Hello, I have a pre-built system. Configuration: Processor AMD FX-8320 3.5 GHz Graphics Gtx 960 2 GB 8 GB ram


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Old 02-22-2017, 02:15 AM   #1
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Hello,

I have a pre-built system.

Configuration:

Processor AMD FX-8320 3.5 GHz
Graphics Gtx 960 2 GB
8 GB ram

Here are the size specs I could find:

Dimensions (H x W x D) 18.5" x 8.1" x 19.5"

Beyond that I have no clue how much room I have for space on the inside. I want to replace the factory PSU for obvious reasons. Plus my computer tends to run warm to hot, even resulting in full restarts/black screens. I think a new cooler plus one or two more fans will stop that though. Current temp with just FireFox open is 60-70C for the core.

What I need help with; a good PSU for up-gradable in the future. I was shown this one; https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16... ... but reviews scared me away. I can go a little higher in price if need be but nothing past $100.

Cooler; https://www.newegg.com/Product/NewProduct.aspx?Item=9SI... .. I don't know if that will even fit or if I should spend a tiny bit more cash to get a better one.

I have no clue what size fans I can get in, but I think 120mm will fit more than likely on top and maybe in front of the case too. I have one on top blowing air in and one high in the back pushing air out.

Thanks for any and all help!
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Old 02-22-2017, 03:47 AM   #2
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What do you mean by "pre built"? Is this a OEM retail PC like Dell, HP? If so what's the make/model of it? Can you post some pictures of what area's of your PC you are wanting to replace the hardware in?
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Old 02-22-2017, 04:21 AM   #3
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Here's the link:

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...82E16883227604

No photos as it's at a friends house as he's doing the installation if I buy the parts.
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Old 02-22-2017, 06:29 AM   #4
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Fan noise: PC has what looks to be the stock AMD cpu cooler. These tend to be loud even at idle. Replacing it alone will most address your overheating issue; should be no need to add case fans. The C-M 212 EVO should work well for you.

Power Supply:Any one of these:
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...17%2D151%2D118
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Old 02-22-2017, 12:27 PM   #5
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Thank you gcavan. I'll place an order for the cooler.

Besides gold certified any reason to buy the more expensive one(s)? Or would the 620W be more than efficient for my needs?
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Old 02-22-2017, 12:55 PM   #6
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The efficiency of the supplies has no bearing on their suitability, but only on cost of operation. An 80Plus Bronze supply (M12II 620) has avg efficiency of 85%; the 80Plus Gold supplies ( G Series 550/650) eff is 90%.

Doing the math: Assuming an average of 300watts output, fours hours per day, 365 days a year.
M12II 620 uses 60.4 Kilowatt-hours (Kwh) of electricity
G Series 550/650 uses 48.6 Kwh
At 10 cents per Kwh the difference is $1.25 per year.
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Old 02-23-2017, 08:06 AM   #7
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It should be noted the average efficiency of any given PSU really depends on the average load it will be under.

If you hover over the Bronze and Gold logos seen here, you will see those 85% and 90% efficiency ratings occur when the supplies are running at 50% load.

This means to achieve maximum efficiency, you need to properly size your PSU based on the average demands your computer will put on it.

Most people would would be surprised if they saw how little power their computer consumes if they put a kill-o-watt meter in line, or monitored power consumption through a UPS. While I am just typing in this webpage while streaming music via Pandora, this modestly pushed i5 with 16GB of RAM, 2 SSDs, and a R7 graphics card, my computer is pulling just 108W from my UPS and note that includes my wireless router, modem and two 24" LED LCD monitors which are powered from the UPS too.

My point is, if you had a large Bronze, it could be supporting a small 20% load at 82% (or less) efficiency most of the time (less if the load was less than 20%). But if you had a properly sized Gold and the load was 50%, it would be working at 90% efficiency most of the time.

Not sure I understand the math used above.

If your computer requires 300W, it will pull from the PSU 300W. It does not matter if the PSU is a 450W PSU or a 1000W PSU, good efficiency or lousy. It will pull 300W.

And regardless the size of the PSU, the PSU will pull from the wall, 300W plus 30 to 45 more to make up for inefficiencies (assuming 85 to 90% efficiency). So the cost difference (assuming 10 cents per kWh) is closer to $2.00 ($3.50 with 82% and 90%) - admittedly not much no matter how you look at it. But of course, the differences would be greater if you average more than 4 hours per day.

But there is more to it than just efficiency. Where does that wasted energy go? It goes out the back of the PSU in the form of heat. If your PSU is running hotter, that could signal the fan to spin faster to keep the PSU properly cooled. That means more fan noise. If your room is air conditioned, your AC needs to work harder. True, still talking pennies, but they add up.

Also, as a general rule, it costs more to manufacture more efficient power supplies. It takes a better design and more efficient components. It is just a common practice in virtually all industries to increase quality and features in the higher lines. Cadillac vs Chevrolet, Lexus vs Toyota, high end Sony TVs vs entry level Sonys. I am not saying they are more reliable or will last longer, I am just saying as a general rule, they perform better.

While not a steadfast rule, as you move up the line of 80 PLUS certified PSUs, you end up with a supply with better ripple suppression and regulation too. This equates to a more stable output - something your computer components will enjoy. For all these reasons, I have no problems justifying the higher costs of a Gold supply over a Bronze.

I like to say you wouldn't buy a brand new Porsche then fill it up with generic fuel at the corner Tobacco and Bait Hut.

After all, if you spread the extra cost of a better PSU over the life of the PSU, that amounts to pennies too. But there's a good chance, with your computer components receiving cleaner power, and your PSU running cooler, they will last longer as well.
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Old 02-23-2017, 08:08 AM   #8
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Oh, BTW, you can download from here a simple, handy spreadsheet Kilowatt Hours Calculator.
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Old 02-23-2017, 09:23 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CertainMage61 View Post
Here's the link:

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...82E16883227604

No photos as it's at a friends house as he's doing the installation if I buy the parts.
For the price you pay for one of those "pre assembled" PC's....you would be better served if you pieced out your own hardware and assembled it yourself.
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Old 02-23-2017, 09:38 AM   #10
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Quote:
you would be better served if you pieced out your own hardware and assembled it yourself.
Not to mention the knowledge you gain about computers in general and specifically about your own computer. Plus there's the pride factor in being about to say, "I built it myself".

The downside is you are immediately tagged as the family/neighborhood computer expert! ;)
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Old 02-23-2017, 10:47 AM   #11
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Regardless what you think about the linked PC, OP already owns it and is requesting input regarding upgrades to cooling and power.
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Old 02-23-2017, 12:42 PM   #12
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Fair point.
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Old 02-24-2017, 04:39 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gcavan View Post
Regardless what you think about the linked PC, OP already owns it and is requesting input regarding upgrades to cooling and power.
Thank you gcavan, this PC is 18 months old and has served me well. Now I'm 'Frankensteining' it part by part. I know there are better ways, but this is my choice from that time.

Anyways, I went with the gold PSU you linked plus the cooler and they are on their way. Once more, truly thanks for the help!
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Old 02-24-2017, 06:23 AM   #14
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One more thing. I just noticed this statement in your first post:

Quote:
I have no clue what size fans I can get in, but I think 120mm will fit more than likely on top and maybe in front of the case too. I have one on top blowing air in and one high in the back pushing air out.
Configured as such, you are working against physics (hot air rises). Reverse this fan such that both are blowing out. Also check to see if there is an intake fan on the front or if it is possible to mount one.
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Old 02-24-2017, 08:27 AM   #15
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Good spot! Yeah, definitely "blowhole" (top mounted) fans should be exhausting heated air out, not blowing in.

Generally front (and bottom, if any) fans blow cool air in, and rear (and top, if any) exhaust heated air out.

Side panel fans blow air in, but I have found they can disrupt the desired air flow in the case and actually degrade cooling. The exception is when they blow into a tube that channels the air directly onto the top of the CPU or GPU (depending on location).

Frankly, I have found side panel fans to simply add unacceptable fan noise rather than add beneficial cooling.
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Old 02-25-2017, 07:22 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gcavan View Post
One more thing. I just noticed this statement in your first post:



Configured as such, you are working against physics (hot air rises). Reverse this fan such that both are blowing out. Also check to see if there is an intake fan on the front or if it is possible to mount one.
Thank you for that, I think this is just compounding my issue. I'll switch the fan direction when I replace the parts. The back fan is blowing out already, but I'll make the top one do the same. I think I have a front fan but I may replace it with a better one all the same.
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Old 02-26-2017, 08:15 AM   #17
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Quote:
but I'll make the top one do the same. I think I have a front fan but I may replace it with a better one all the same.
Unless the bearings are shot and the front fan is making a lot of racket (assuming it is blowing air in to the case), I would just turn the top fan around and see how it goes before worrying about the front fan.

And make sure the case interior, vents, fans and heatsinks are all free of heat trapping dust too.
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