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Faulty RAM or RAM slots?

This is a discussion on Faulty RAM or RAM slots? within the RAM and Power Supply Support forums, part of the Tech Support Forum category. Helo folks. So, about a week ago my pc randomly turned off and when I turned it on, it wouldnt


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Old 09-26-2017, 06:38 PM   #1
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Helo folks. So, about a week ago my pc randomly turned off and when I turned it on, it wouldnt display anything. The light on the monitor was red instead of usually blue but the PC itself was running normally except for the display. So I turned it off, re-plugged the monitor cables, cut the power circulation by pressing the "Power on" button with no power and it worked.

Today, it happened again. Out of nowhere the pc turned off and when I tried to turn it on nothing would happen. I re-plugged the cables but it didn't work. So I do the following.
1) Reposition the RAMs from slots 2-4 to 1-3
didnt work
2) Took RAM from slot 3 out
It works
3) Put RAM on slot 4 so my slots now are 1-4
It still works

So my question is, what is at fault here? What should I do next time my pc shuts off? What can I do to prevent it? Thank you in advance!
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Old 09-27-2017, 05:26 AM   #2
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what where you doing at the time it shut off, how many apps / games did you have open and what are your PC specifications?
is your windows up to date?
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Old 09-27-2017, 06:03 AM   #3
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I was doing standard browsing on one monitor and Football manager 2017 on the other. I got windows 10 but they are not up to date. I have to make some updates.
Specs are:
W10 Pro
i5 4670k
8gb ram
gtx 770
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Old 09-27-2017, 07:47 AM   #4
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I don't understand why you would immediately think RAM. My first thought was power, then heat.

While not unheard of, it is very rare for RAM "slots" to go bad. They are just mechanical connectors after all. So for them to go bad, it is usually through physical abuse - forcing a RAM stick in backwards, for example.

There is a greater risk of damage to the RAM itself from a faulty power supply, poor power anomaly suppression (surges and spikes), or mishandling by the user. Did you observe proper ESD precautions when handling the sticks? That is, did you unplug the power supply from the wall and touch bare metal of the case interior to discharge any static in your body BEFORE reaching in or touching the RAM - EVERY time?

Is the case interior clean of heat trapping dust? What are your temps?

What motherboard or PC brand and model?
What PSU?
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Old 09-27-2017, 08:09 AM   #5
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My first thought was RAM because the PC turned on once again when I removed one ram stick and indicated "RAM has been changed" etc.

I didn't take any precautions because I wasn't aware that I had to to be honest but I never touched the golden teeth of the RAM sticks, only the plastic part of them. That said, I ran windows memory diagnostics afterwards and it showed no problems with the RAMs.

Case is clean of dust, my temperatures seem fine. I was gaming a lot during the week and I had no overheating problems. But yesterday, out of nowhere with only Chrome and FM17 open it crashed. My guess is it is not overheating.

My motherboard is MSI Z87-G45 GAMING (MS-7821) and my PSU is unidentifiable since it's in the case, in a small case but it's been running perfectly fine 2 years now.
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Old 09-27-2017, 10:14 AM   #6
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Quote:
my temperatures seem fine.
Without actual numbers, that does not help us. You can try opening the side panel and blasting a desk fan in there and see what happens.

Quote:
and my PSU is unidentifiable since it's in the case
Not sure what that means. Do you mean the label cannot be seen? Is this a factory built or custom built system?

Since everything inside the computer depends on good, clean, stable, power, I always swap in a known good supply when troubleshooting odd reboot/freezing problems. Because so many things can cause those same symptoms, it is very hard to troubleshoot down to the offending component. So ensuring all are getting good power is essential.
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Old 09-27-2017, 10:52 AM   #7
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Yes Im sorry I didn't put it right. I cannot tell what the PSU is because the label cannot be seen.

Other than that, there's an overview of my temps while on just browsing something mode:

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Old 09-27-2017, 11:02 AM   #8
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Well, not sure what that Nuvoton sensor is monitoring, but 122°C is alarming. It may just be some quirk in the monitoring, however.

Your CPU temps do look good otherwise.

So I am back to making sure you have good power.
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Old 09-27-2017, 05:14 PM   #9
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Is there any way I can check if I get good power or not?

Also, today, the PC restarted itself randomly while just browsing the internet. Not sure what this means. I turned off auto restart function. Maybe this will help.
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Old 09-27-2017, 05:50 PM   #10
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The computer would restart if it over heats or installing updates, also the memory slots on the motherboard supports two sorts of memory like ddr3 ddr4 so putting them in the wrong slots could damage the motherboard, cleaning the fans, checking the cpu cooler for dust build up and re-apply thermal paste to the cpu or buy a new cpu cooler, also check the psu for dust build up, if you are still having problems buy a new psu unit 450w or better branded one tend to last longer.
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Old 09-28-2017, 07:09 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steve32mids
also the memory slots on the motherboard supports two sorts of memory like ddr3 ddr4 so putting them in the wrong slots could damage the motherboard
:( Ummm, no it doesn't. A simple Google search for the OP's motherboard shows here that motherboard supports only DDR3.
Quote:
and re-apply thermal paste to the cpu or buy a new cpu cooler
Why? There is absolutely no need to replace TIM (thermal interface material) unless the cured bond has been broken. TIM will easily last 10, 15, 20 years or longer without any significant performance degradation. If TIM needed to be regularly replaced because some X amount of time passed, TIM makers, CPU makers, motherboard makers, GPU makers would all prescribe it. But NONE do! So if the cured bond between the cooler and CPU is not broken, leave it alone or risk damaging the CPU or socket through mishandling or ESD.

And there is no need to replace the cooler unless the fan no longer works and a replacement fan cannot be found.

And I would not buy a new PSU unless the old one was determined to be bad.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ParadiseCityPR
Is there any way I can check if I get good power or not?
Sure. If you have a spare or can borrow a known good PSU, swap it in and see if the problem continues.

Here is my canned text on testing PSUs:

To properly and conclusively test a power supply unit (PSU), it must be tested under a variety of realistic "loads" then analyzed for excessive ripple and other anomalies that affect computer stability. This is done by a qualified technician using an oscilloscope or power supply analyzer - sophisticated (and expensive) electronic test equipment requiring special training to operate, and a basic knowledge of electronics theory to understand the results. Therefore, conclusively testing a power supply is done in properly equipped electronics repair facilities.

Fortunately, there are other options that are almost as good if you don’t have a known good spare supply handy. I keep a PSU Tester in my tool bag in my truck for house calls. The advantage of this model is that it has a LCD readout of the voltages. With an actual voltage readout, you have a better chance of detecting a "failing" PSU, or one barely within the required ±5% tolerances as specified in the ATX Form Factor PSU Design Guide (see “Table 2. DC Output Voltage Regulation” on Page 13). Lesser models use LEDs to indicate the voltage is just within some "range". These are less informative, considerably cheaper, but still useful for detecting PSUs that have already "failed". However, none of these testers test for ripple and they only provide a little "dummy load", not a variety of "realistic" loads. So while better than nothing, using one of these testers is not a conclusive test. They are also great when using a spare PSU for testing fans and drive motors as they signal the PSU to turn on when plugged in.

Acceptable Tolerances:
12VDC ±5% = 11.4 to 12.6VDC
5VDC ±5% = 4.75 to 5.25VDC
3.3VDC ±5% = 3.14 to 3.47VDC

The last alternative is to take the PSU to a reputable shop. Most will test a supply for a very nominal fee.
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Old 09-29-2017, 12:36 PM   #12
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So I opened my box today and saw the PSU. It is actually a Corsair CX750M. I searched a little bit about it and saw that CX series is notorious for crap PSUs. So would it definately be the PSU then?
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Old 09-30-2017, 07:37 AM   #13
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Quote:
I searched a little bit about it and saw that CX series is notorious for crap PSUs. So would it definately be the PSU then?
No. Just because it is a CX series PSU, that does not, in any way, mean it is "definitely" the PSU.

And note being a CX does NOT imply your PSU is "crap". Many work just fine. It just means it is not of the same high-quality as Corsairs upper tier lines. Consequently, there have been samples that failed prematurely or did not live up to the reputation Corsair had established. That has made them disappointing because Corsair built a reputation for top quality across their entire inventory.

You need to have it tested before you can say it is "definitely" the PSU or not.
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