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Electronics Get help with your electronics, including flux capacitors.

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Old 01-20-2009, 10:13 PM   #1 (permalink)
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1 in a million

well first off i will say when i build something its far from normal, i have a 60 inch sony flat screen that i took the back off of and inside i put 3 satellite MOBO"s and 1 pc MOBO. i did quite alot of modding inside the tv to do this and i have it snug drilling the hole for each wire on the side of the tv making it all fit just the way i like it. i had to splice a few wires and solder quite alot but its all good and the solder connections are fine for my likes. i have 6 1500 gig HD"s installed on an Asus Striker II Extreme now this puppy is fast i have a nice GPU and CPU (overkill) with a good psu that i made a special mount for inside the tv. this is my project for 2009 " media box " with mediaportal on xp and i love it BUT theres one problem when i use my microwave or toaster the pic goes all fuzzy and i cant fix this problem, i tried with no luck at all ffs. do i need to build something with sheet metal ? to cover something or what. this has me pulling my hair out ! i need some expert help here guys..any at all is great (ideas or w/e) ty..
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Old 01-20-2009, 10:35 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Re: 1 in a million

There's a lot of electrical current running throughout that machine.
If you want to maybe lessen the static, try getting thin sheets of rubber or possibly adding some extra ground wires throughout it.
I've never seen a flatscreen get interference from anything, but my old CRTs and a rear projection did. I just soldered some random wires from metallic areas to the ground wire and it seemed to help quite a bit...But that's a lot more work than insulating it with rubber sheets.
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Old 01-20-2009, 10:43 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Re: 1 in a million

thanks for the reply man, as for ground i have this puppy grounded real good and i mean REAL good. thin sheets of rubber i never tried or even thought of, what place do i buy rubber sheets at man ? i"ll try it hell i"ll try anything cuz this is pissing me off, i know all the connections are good the pic is clear as hell and the sound is perfect all HD. let me know man at what store to buy rubber ? rubber ha sounds funny but get back to me thnx bud
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Old 01-20-2009, 11:11 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Re: 1 in a million

For the rubber idea to work, you'd need to cover a lot of the internal workings, pretty much coat it all except where the screen and plugs are, it should at least diffuse some electrical interference.
The easiest way to get some rubber sheets is to know someone with an old water-bed; even thin as hell rubber sheets might run $15 per square foot. Other than that, there are rubber materials used in home construction, so home depot is a pretty good bet. There's a type of carpet insulation(between your carpet and actual flooring) that is a thinner type of rubber material, but may be too thick. I don't know how much room you're playing with here. Or you could try a pawn shop/secondhand store.
An idea besides rubber might be aluminum foil held against the back of the television's case, with a wire coming from each corner of the tv connecting to a ground..You can never have too many grounds if there's interference coming from somewhere.
I've never actually had nor thought of trying to get that much electrical current into one thing, but if I were going to attempt it..I'd work on an electrical engineering degree beforehand. lol

And then again, you may just need a new microwave and toaster. I haven't heard much at all from newer MW's/toasters throwing out a whole lot of electrical interference with advancements in technology; as most things now have to meet special regulations that they will not emit anything that will interfere with other electronics.
Oor, if your microwave & toaster are both on the same breaker as your television, they may be drawing too much current.. Have you tried moving the television to another room that's the same distance from them?

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Old 01-20-2009, 11:20 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Re: 1 in a million

aluminum foil no way will i do that, and no the tv is on a diffirent breaker than both of those AND its not just that, i plug in a old dust buster and turn it on and same thing,,,, fuzzy picture :( like i said its all perfect, sound pic, its just when something is turned on in my house it goes snow like. i had the tv for about a month and it never did that so my new mod i did is causing something odd. i"ll try the rubber i guess and see if that fixes it. but in the meantime im open to anything

hmm i just thought of something, i get wireless net and run it to the neighbours, maybe theres something going on there. i got wireless running to the tv and a bunch of others with long heavy dudy wire. it must be the prob

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Old 01-20-2009, 11:39 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Re: 1 in a million

The aluminum foil was just a thought, I've noticed that in many of my old CRT monitors, there was aluminum foil in areas, and some type of aluminum foil tube that actually ran around the screen to reduce electrostatic. Also the tube had around 6 separate ground wires soldered onto it and then they converged into 1 wire and then to the actual ground. As long as no connection was made anywhere to a piece of electronic equipment(such as only touching plastic or any other non-metallic material) you'd have absolutely no problems. You could even glue it down to keep it from things.

Oh and lol, if you have a dust buster, then maybe it's the age of your toaster and microwave that's the problem (should the wire you mentioned not be the problem). Because, up until the mid to late 90's there wasn't that strict of policies concerning electrostatic and odd frequencies being emitted from electronics.

And, if you've created any extra wires that carry any sort of electrical current (network or other) make sure that where they're connected (if you had to do more than plug it in) and.. . The location of where power cords coming into your motherboards and whatnot can effect it too, such as if the power connection is too close to where your TV is encoded for viewing.

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Old 01-21-2009, 08:18 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Re: 1 in a million

Put a ferrite ring on all cables & wires entering or leaving the TV including the power cable.

The 'lump' that is on many computer cable is in fact a ferrite ring - It kills RF (radio frequencies) . Your cables could be acting like antennas. The easiest ones to fit are the clip on type such as these

Radio Shack will sell 'em.

Alternatively, give up eating!
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Old 01-21-2009, 07:01 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Re: 1 in a million

Quote:
Originally Posted by DonaldG View Post
Put a ferrite ring on all cables & wires entering or leaving the TV including the power cable.

The 'lump' that is on many computer cable is in fact a ferrite ring - It kills RF (radio frequencies) . Your cables could be acting like antennas. The easiest ones to fit are the clip on type such as these

Radio Shack will sell 'em.

Alternatively, give up eating!
agreed. Inductive loads and RF's will both do this.
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Old 01-24-2009, 09:38 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Re: 1 in a million

The Earth wiring should be done in "star form" and not run randomly around the unit. that means all points that you want earthed should start at a central point and that central point should be where the unit connects to the outside earthing. Keep the wire lengths as short as possible.
if you don't use a star type earthing arrangement earth lopping can occur. It may not show until the right sequence of events occurs.

just a thought.
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Old 01-24-2009, 09:32 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Re: 1 in a million

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The Earth wiring should be done in "star form" and not run randomly around the unit. that means all points that you want earthed should start at a central point and that central point should be where the unit connects to the outside earthing. Keep the wire lengths as short as possible.
if you don't use a star type earthing arrangement earth lopping can occur. It may not show until the right sequence of events occurs.

just a thought.
can say ive ever heard that phrase before.
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Old 01-25-2009, 04:38 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Re: 1 in a million

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ground_loop_(electricity)

Quote:
A ground loop in a medium connecting circuits designed to be at the same potential but actually at different potentials can be hazardous, or cause problems with the electrical system, because the electrical potential and soil resistance at different points on the surface of the Earth can vary.

In a floating ground system, that is, one not connected to Earth, the voltages will probably be unstable, and if some of the conductors that constitute the return circuit to the source have a relatively high resistance, or have high currents through them that produce a significant voltage (I·R) drop, they can be hazardous.

Low current wiring is particularly susceptible to ground loops. If two pieces of audio equipment are plugged into different power outlets, there will often be a difference in their respective ground potentials. If a signal is passed from one to the other via an audio connection with the ground wire intact, this potential difference causes a spurious current through the cables, creating an audible buzz at the AC mains base frequency (50 or 60 Hz) and the harmonics thereof (120 Hz, 240 Hz, and so on), called mains hum. Sometimes, performers remove the grounding pin from the cord connecting an appliance to the power outlet; however, this creates an electrocution risk. The first solution is to ensure that all metal chassis are interconnected, then connected to the electrical distribution system at one point (often referred to as a "single-point ground"). The next solution is to have shielded cables for the low currents, with the shield connected only at the source end. Another solution is to use isolation transformers, opto-isolators or baluns to avoid a direct electrical connection between the different grounds. However, bandwidth of such is of consideration. The better isolation transformers have grounded shields between the two sets of windings. In circuits having high frequencies, such as computer monitors, chokes are placed at the end of the cables just before the termination to the next appliance, e.g., the computer. These chokes are most often called ferrite core devices.

In video, ground loops can be seen as hum bars (bands of slightly different brightness) scrolling vertically up the screen. These are frequently seen with Video projectors where the display device has its case grounded via a 3-prong plug, and the other components have a floating ground connected to the CATV coax. In this case the video cable is grounded at the projector end to the home electrical system, and at the other end to the cable TV's ground, inducing a current through the cable which distorts the picture. As with audio ground loops, this problem can be solved by placing an isolation transformer on the cable-tv coax. Alternatively, one can use a surge protector that includes coax protection. If the cable is routed through the same surge protector as the three-prong device, both will be regrounded to the surge protector.

Ground loop issues with television coaxial cable can also affect any connected audio devices such as a receiver. Even if all of the audio and video equipment in, for example, a home theater system is plugged into the same power outlet, and thus all share the same ground, the coaxial cable entering the TV is actually grounded at the cable company. The potential of this ground is likely to differ slightly from the potential of the house's ground, so a ground loop occurs, causing undesirable mains hum in the system's speakers. A cheap way to resolve this problem is to buy a 75-Ohm Coax Combiner-Splitter and a "Matching Transformer". The 75-Ohm Coax Combiner/Splitter converts the impedance from 75 ohms to 300 ohms and the "Matching Transformer" converts the impedance from 300 ohms to 75 ohms. Both parts connected together will act as a "poor man's" isolation transformer.

Ground and ground loops are also important in designing circuits. In many circuits, large currents may exist through the ground plane, leading to voltage differences of the ground reference in different parts of the circuit, leading to hum and other problems. Several techniques should be used to avoid ground loops, and otherwise, guarantee good grounding:

* The external shield, and the shields of all connectors, should be connected together. This external ground should be connected to the ground plane of the PCB at only one point; this avoids large current through the ground plane of the PCB. If the connectors are mounted on the PCB, the outer perimeter of the PCB should contain a strip of copper connecting to the shields of the connectors. There should be a break in copper between this strip, and the main ground plane of the circuit. The two should be connected at only one point. This way, if there is a large current between connector shields, it will not pass through the ground plane of the circuit.
* A star topology should be used for ground distribution, avoiding loops.
* Power devices should be placed closest to the power supply, while low-power devices can be placed further from it.
* Signals, wherever possible, should be differential. Use differential signaling.
took me a while to find a suitable article on the net that might explain what I meant

hope this helps

you'll note that the original and my quote differ in presentation .. I have highlighted different items for obvious reasons ( to me and hopefuly, also the reader)
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