Aus_Karlos

Im OC my graphics card but am i going to high for a stock fan. I dont really trust software to interface with sensors on the card and motherboard.

Well here is the original clock.
Core: 513mhz
Shader: 1188mhz
Memory: 792mhz
Fan speed 85% (2415rpm- 2440rpm)
Temp: Idle 55c / Full load 70c-72c

And the OC clock
Core: 567mhz
Shader: 1296mhz
Memory: 828mhz
Fan Speed: 85%
Temp: Idle 55c-57c / Full load 72c-74c

Im using Riva Tuner the latest version.
Currently using Drivers 169.12 (beta)
* Beta drivers will only register OC if i increase bar by ~20hz*
Also Riva Tuners OC function isnt working properly, i can't set individual settings for Standard 2D and Performance 3D

No other temp moves when i OC so thats a good sign, but what worries me is that ive OC by 54hz and i only get a 2c increase. Or is that normal.

Edit: I get a 2-10fps increase in Crysis when OC'ed

Kalim

Nope, not high at all, very mediocre.

To give you an example, you should get up to 655/1500/1100 on those stable with good cooling (peak). Try more.

Use ATi Tool to test and stress the GPU.

Aus_Karlos

655 ey, well im only using stock fan but ive played crysis in those OC settings with my fan at 85% and my 120mm back case at 50% and i have 68c full load. so i will go higher..

Aus_Karlos

Im up at 621/1458/918 running the ATI scan now, so far with previous OC settings no errors occurred and ive only had a 5c temp increase. Crysis benchmark GPU say i get an extra 5-10fps average (In veryhigh) so i now get 20-30fps outside and 40-50fps inside.

How long do i run the scan for.....

Kalim

Do a 15 minute scan -> if you get no artifacts in the image, then run 3DMark06, AquaMark3, 3DMark01 and then play a game (Crysis is perfect for it). Watch your temperatures and image quality.

If all remains fine you have a stable setting.

You can always keep a higher OC profile and a lower one.

Enjoy.

Aus_Karlos

ok, current clock now, 648/1512/970. I will see how this goes for the weekend. ATI tool ran for 15min the temp reached 75c in 5min and stayed there for the 10min. How ever when i played Crysis i noticed a big difference in fps but the temp stayed around 68-70c.

Is it wise to switch between OC and stock.. Eg. OC when playing games, stock when browsing web and watching DVD's. or could this cause damage to the GPU.

Now for the CPU but thats a different story. Could i just use EasyTune5 from gigabyte. Click on OC (simple) and up the clock speed from 2660mhz to 2800mhz (check stability) then up again, i want to get to 3ghz.
As its a new CPU, motherboard and RAM my CPU temp is idle 19c and full load 25c so i could OC quite far.

Kalim

Yep, I prefer using profiles. Saves much in terms of heat, noise, time and is easier on the GPU. Lower temps is always better for your hardware.

It looks like you have either of E6750/E6700. Bump the voltage up one notch in the BIOS (VCore). Then when your in Windows just click higher FSB until you get to 3GHz. Should be very easy (you may need a little higher NB/FSB/PLL volts for best stability though). You can set profiles in this too. Are you on the stock cooler? (check your temps with EVEREST latest BETA: http://www.lavalys.com/beta/everestu...gs7dxhm2ca.zip)
You can just set it in BIOS if you like. 400 FSB should be easy and stable with some Core, FSB and NB voltage.
Add 15C to your full load C2D temp. That would be close to the real temps. Idle temps on stock cooler would be at least 8-9C higher than ambient case temps (which are in-turn at least 8-9C higher than ambient environment temps).

The clocks look good. Once you've reach maxed on Core clock (makes most difference), try doing the Mem clock a little higher. Usually gets to above 1GHz stable.

Aus_Karlos

The CPU idle temp is from the BIOS and the full load is from easytune5..
Yeah its stock cooling and its a E6750, however my Case temp is about 20c, this is due to the amount of copper on it. lol. Ive got copper cooling and it keeps the heat away from the CPU thats y i have a low temp.. Before i go any further whats NB and PLL..

Kalim

If your ambient is 18C, yuor case temp will be higher than that and the idle CPU temp even higher. The misreadings on Core 2 are well known. For instance, mine used to read 8C in ambient 15C which is physically impossible.

NB is Northbridge.
PLL is the clock adjuster.

Aus_Karlos

How much of a change should i make to the Vcore. It currently at 1.33v(default), Ive clocked the CPU at 2.8ghz atm with only changing the FSB which was at 333 and now is at 350.

Edit: How do i disable the CPU's power save mode. When its not doing anything it reverts to 2.0ghz with a Multi of x6. And when its doing something its at 2.79ghz with Multi of x8. And it continues to fluctuate between the two if my pc is on idle. And this makes the Vcore go from 1.14v-1.34v. Also ive got the BIOS automatically changing the voltage. So if i up the FSB if it requires more volts then the BIOS will adjust in realtime.

Kalim

Only ever apply voltage to any part if it's needed for perfect stability. Otherwise, stay with the lowest voltage which is fully stable. Increasing voltage over default is the last thing you really want to do.

Voltage will throw the temps/power draw high very quickly.

Aus_Karlos

The BIOS was always in control of the volts. Im going to increase the FSB again to about 360 and boot see if it will. I will then run a benchmark if its stable i will go up some more. Also on CPU-Z in looking at the SPD tab which is the RAM. I have 3 timming tables.
1) JEDEC #1: 270mhz 4/4/4/13/15 @ 1.8v
2) JEDEC #2: 400mhz 5/5/5/18/22 @ 1.8v (I think this is mine).
3) EPP #1 : 400mhz 4/4/4/12/22 @ 2.10v (command Rate 2T)

Could i use EEP would that be a better clock

Also the more ive increase my FSB, my RAM clock has dropped, how can i bring that back up, is it as simple as increasing it back to 400hmz

Aus_Karlos

Well i think thats as high as i can go for now untill i get a better case and Zalman CPU fan and heatsink.
My CPU is at a stable 2.8ghz @1.41v (needed to be at 1.4v otherwise wouldnt increase)
I got Everest and found it displays correct temps.
Core1 & 2 ave an idle of 35c-40c and full load of 50c. Wont go over that temp.

I didnt know but there was an option in my BIOS to switch to "High Performance" in the RAM OC section. My RAM is now running in EPP mode.

Everything looks stable i will leave it for a week and see what happens..
Thanks for the Help Kalim.

Oh also do you know of any good towers for ATX boards. One with lots of fan placements and HDD bays.

Kalim

Excellent case: Thermaltake Armor (many versions)

The "JEDEC" is what is SPD Info of your RAM. The "EPP" is the enhanced profile info of your RAM. You can use EPP on Nvidia chipsets perfectly.
So your RAM is rated for:

DDR2-800 at 4-4-4-12-22 CR2 @ 2.10V.

Which RAM is it? (make/model)

I've used your board a while ago so don't recall accurately much. But quickly from memory. You should have a section labelled MIT in the main BIOS page. When you get on the main page, press CTRL-F1. That will show you more OC options now. It's a hidden feature.
Therein you should have a section called Spread Spectrum Control under MIT. Disable that for everything (makes clocks instable).
Then still under MIT you should have System Clock Settings. Under it you'll see FSB - Memory Clock mode. Choose "Unlinked". Then bleow it set your memory speed manually to whatever you want. Should be ruinning fine now.

Aus_Karlos

Yeah i found using the MIT section in the BIOS instead of software gave me better OC performance
The RAM is Corsair XMS2.

What does Spread Spectrum do exactly. Its enabled on my CPU, PCI-E and one other thing i carnt remember.
And i have choosen Unlinked in the MIT section, i found out that if my FSB was running at 350 my RAM frequency increased to 1006mhz. I was like OMG... Atm RAM is running at 810mhz, It rates 5.9 on windows so i didnt want to really OC my RAM.

I will take a look at some Thermaltake Armor.. :D

Kalim

Spread Spectrum makes clocks fluctuate up and down (a few MHz left and right) and if you OC it'll make your system instable very quickly. It's useless.

I don't remeber the dividers you get offered in unlinked mode on your MB but there should be one which gives you 450MHz on RAM at 360 FSB... ?
That would work perfect with your RAM.

Which version of Corsair XMS2 C4 is it, do you know? Look at the modules it should say either v1.x or v2.x.

Aus_Karlos

Ive just played Crysis for 3hr straight as its performance is now out of this world. With my CPU and GPU OC'ed ive gained a stable fps rate of 30 and above all on very high.
But whats worrying me is my CPU Cores. one registers 55c on full load where as the other is at 50c full load. Do u think thats to hot? Its idle after a game sits around 38-40c.

So i will back the clock off for now and disable spectrum on all devices ad i will check my RAM version number.

1 g0t 0wn3d

Nah thats safe (what my temps are) once you start going over 60 though its time to back off

Aus_Karlos

Im thinking of spending a little extra for this fan, Im going with the Aluminum as i know it conducts heat better than copper. I should have enough room to fit it. My case on M/B is quite big.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835118020

1 g0t 0wn3d

copper actually is better