Done_Fishin

I have this logitech mosue that after plugging into the USB port refused to power on .. at least I assume it refused since the red light underneath didn't power on. It's second hand and was assumed working at the time I was given it.
anyway to cut a log story short, lol, I opened it up expecting to find a few wires cut as is the norm with faulty Mice .. but all showed OK. However the Wheel stayed in the top half of the mouse then fell out when I was going to put it back together again. This assembly consists of 2 springs and a couple of plastic pieces. I amanged to figutre out where and how to put most of the parts but one strange shaped spring eludes me. I can't see either where it could go or that the mouse might not work with it!
So if anyone has managed to open up an MX518 and succesfully put it back together would they please let me know where the thin spring goes .. not the one that keeps the wheel up (which resembles an open spring from a clothes peg) but the other one. DON"T open one to try to help .. it may not go back together again like mine ..

Done_Fishin

This is the Logitech MX518



site
http://www.logitech.com/index.cfm/pr...ONTENTID=10121

OneBadLT123

As much as I would love to help you, I did the exact same thing with my old MX500 mouse. I just ended up throwing it into my "computer junk" box in the closet and got the MX518. I never found anything on how to asseble it together again.

Good luck!

Done_Fishin

Thanks for sharing .. It's not the first time I ended up looking for the "impossible to find" .. I reckon though that one day I will be lucky enough to find at least one answer!

Mourg

is this thread still active? If you still need help email me, i recently did the same thing (hence how i came about this forum) and i have fixed it and it is working just fine now. Ill send pics of how to fix it if u shoot me an email m8.

Done_Fishin

Hi Mourg .. I have the mouse and (believe it or not ) it's working fine without the spring, I only use it for general mouse work ands not games .. but if you can give me some pointers as to where it should go .. I'd be really happy to digest any info that you have ..

Mourg

Hey, thank you for the prompt response. Im sorry to say that i don't have pics available of it yet /cry. I'm backed up with school(i'm only 17) and work but this weekend i should have time to get them taken and uploaded. Ill have links and a walkthru this weekend. Once again apologies about the holdup.

Done_Fishin

No sweat and thanks for taking the time & trouble to help .. really appreciated

Jimmy319

My scroll wheel was working on and off and I wanted to open the mouse to fix it. I was hesitant because I wasn't sure if I'd be able to put it back together. Mourg's post gave me the backup that I needed (thanks). Anyway, I'm going to post pics of how it's supposed to fit, in case anyone else wanders upon this thread.

Picture 1

Picture 2

Picture 3

Done_Fishin

Thanks for those Pics .. I recognise everything apart from the first photo .. is that the wheel assembly too? I don't suppose you found another spring inside when you opened at all did you? The one in your photo is one that I found and put back but was left with another one , wondering where it goes .. but should say that the mouse is working now without it.
One strange thing that I have noticed with the way the mouse works .if it gets an accidental heavy bump .. it turns off , requires unplugging and re-plugging to get it going again .. not sure if it's a fault or just susceptible to "noise" .. electrical that is ..

Mourg .. what happened to you photo's ?? having problems ??

Thanks for sharing guys

Jimmy319

Picture 4 Multiple Angle View of Picture 1

Picture 5 Picture of Weird Shaped Metal Piece

Picture 6 Top View of Mouse

I found two metal pieces. First is the one in the first picture. Second is the "clothes hanger" one, which is in the third picture.

Picture 1 is of the plastic piece which is to the left of the scroll wheel. It's removable and slides into these grooves. It performs the clicking function of the scroll wheel. It also serves as the piece which holds the weird shaped metal piece. That metal piece fits into the plastic piece as shown in picture one.

In picture 4, you can see how the hook end goes into the inner wheel of the scroll wheel. It serves as the clicking/stopping mechanism of the wheel. If there's some other metal piece that you're talking about that isn't shown in the picture, please take a picture of it and I'll try to look for it in my mouse.

Done_Fishin

I haven't opened up my mouse again yet .. but I don't have that clicking on the mouse wheel .. so looks like the missing piece is one of these two springs there .. all I have to do is find it now .. it's been so long since I started to look for this that I have "put it away"

I'll shut down later on and put a temporary mouse in it's place whilst I open it up and look.
Thanks for those extra pictures

Done_Fishin

I checked my mouse and I was right .. hunted everywhere for the missing spring that I would have put on one side ina very safe place .. but it's so safe that I can't even find it any more .. so shut the mouse again and will fix it when It turns up
Thanks for your help everybody

MUff1N

My MX518 had a short in the cord and I managed to cut it out of the cord and splice all the wires (5) back together and it works great...BUT, there was this one little strange bent spring on the lefthand side of the mouse wheel that I didn't have a clue how to put back in!!!
( the other one was obvious how to put back in)
From what I can tell, what this little bent spring does is make the wheel have that "notched" feel to it as you pull down rotating the mouse wheel. Without this little spring in there that feel is gone and it just rotates freely with out the notching which feels weird to me...but it still work fine without it but I want that back.
So I "Googled" Logitech MX518 Assembly and it brought me to this thread.
Thank you so much for posting these picks of the spring assembly in the mouse!!!
I now have my mouse working perfectly like it came out of the box!!!

Done_Fishin

Hi Muff1n & Welcome to the forum .. I'm glad that we were able to help .. Mu mouse doesn't have that notched feeling any more cos I put the spring somewhere safe til I found out where it went .. but it works just as well without it ..

MUff1N

Thanks for the Welcome!
I hate when I put something away to keep it "safe", then not being able to find it later!

Yea I got this mouse 8 months ago with my new computer system & this is one of the few things (perpetuals) that's not covered by my extended 3 year warranty...
So I figured I had nothing to loose by trying to fix this myself because I already have an electronics soldering iron and solder.
I have no idea why it would short out in the cord where it enters the mouse. Its not like there's a lot of stress put on the cord with it moving around the mouse pad! LOL
Anyways, I was extremely pleased when all was said and done and it worked like new again!
But if it wasn't for those posted pics of the MX518 wheel and spring assembly, I never would have figured out how to get that spring back in right.

Done_Fishin

for years now corded mice have had one major failing .. the lead .. it's constantly flexing all the time as it is being moved. This flexing even though very slight has the affect of slowly breaking the strands in the wires inside. Some may even work their way slowly through the insulation. if two adjacent wires manage to poke a bit of wire out of the mouse at the same point there is a possibility of shorting, as has happened to you. More often than not the wires eventually part and lose contact stopping the mouse from functioning.
In Electric Steam Irons it's not unusual for the resultant shorting by the handle where the cable comes out to give the user a fright when the wires eventually short, a small explosion occurs and the fuse fails in the fusebox. It's all part of the same syndrome. One way that the problem has been combatted is to try to restrict the flexing of the cable at the point of exit. Whilst Electric Steam Irons have now a flexible support tube at the point of exit, as yet mice don't. Probably because it's somewhat restrictive and makes the mouse feel clumsy afterwards. It's probably also why the cordless mouse came along whose disadvantage is not cable but battery replacement or recharging .
When I find mice with this type of problem I tend to cut back and solder directly to the board inside adding a small bit of tubing to restrict movement at the exit point.

MUff1N

Yea, I guess I put more than my share of wear and tear on the mouse cable by flexing it when I move it back and forth on the pad (2'x 2' Giant pad) while gaming.
I usually play about 4-8 hrs a day on my system so that would account for the quick demise of the cable shorting out...

Yea, that's what I did was cut the cable back 4" and spiced it back together inside the mouse instead of direct soldering because it's got a 5 pin header on the board for the cable.
If I can find a replacement 5 pin plug at Radioshack then I'll just replace that and have the cord directly to the plug. But what I did worked just fine too because it's inside the mouse with no stress on the splices.

The next time this happens I'm going to add some heat shrink to the cord at the entry point and that should help it to last longer...with any luck...LOL
At least now I "know" how to put the mouse and spring assembly back in correctly...

Done_Fishin

You can always note the colour arrangements of the wires to the pins.Remove the connector, poke the wires through the holes (after stripping a bit of the wire insulation back) and solder the wires to the board direct. Use a solder sucker or braid to remove solder from the board so that the connector pins come out easily without damaging the tracks. I have a very fine tip on my soldering iron so I soldered directly to the connector pins of the removable side of the connector.

it'll take a few years though for the problem to show again .. but you'll be ready for everything

Zaq

I had a short in my MX518 cable as well, but I managed to solder the USB wires onto the board. The wheel scroll is working properly, but what's odd is that the normal left click and right click buttons aren't working any more (as well as the wheel-click button). Could this be because of bad soldering? I already checked my solder work, and none seemed to touch each other.

Any insights?