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[SOLVED] Loud buzzing sound and then BSOD

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Old 08-20-2013, 01:22 AM   #1
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Okay so my computer has been having this weird buzzing sound, which I think is coming from the video card but it hasn't really affected anything until now. When I started playing a game, it started making a really loud buzzing sound before eventually BSODing.

I'm still relatively newbish to computers so I have no idea how to troubleshoot so I'm sorry if I'm doing things wrong.

Here are my specs and attached are my error files:

Windows 7
x64
Original OS installed was Windows 7
OEM version
Age of system (hardware) 2-3 years old?
Age of OS installation 2-3 years

CPU AMD Phenom II X4 940T
Video Card HD Radeon 6870
MotherBoard - H-RS880-uATX
Power Supply Apevia 680W

System Manufacturer - HP
Model Number p6787c


Let me know if there's any more information needed. Thank-you beforehand.
Attached Files
File Type: rar Error.rar (1,016.7 KB, 149 views)
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Old 08-20-2013, 01:31 AM   #2
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Hi,

All of the attached DMP files are of the CRITICAL_OBJECT_TERMINATION (f4) bugcheck.

A process or thread critical to proper system operation has unexpectedly exited or been terminated.

There's a hardware problem with the boot drive, or a device driver has a bug or a critical service was stopped.

We can see from the dump -

IO_ERROR: (NTSTATUS) 0xc000000e - A device which does not exist was specified.

FAILURE_BUCKET_ID: X64_0xF4_IOERR_C000000E_IMAGE_hardware_disk

MODULE_NAME: hardware_disk

etc

Overall, possible hard disk failure. However, it could be device driver related as well. Let's do some software related things first -

1. Update to Service Pack 1 ASAP: Learn how to install Windows 7 Service Pack 1 (SP1)

2.
In your loaded drivers list, dtsoftbus01.sys is listed which is the Daemon Tools driver. Daemon Tools is a very popular cause of BSOD's in 7/8 based systems. Please uninstall Daemon Tools. Alternative imaging programs are: MagicISO, Power ISO, etc.

3. I recommend temporarily removing and replacing Norton with Microsoft Security Essentials:

Norton removal tool - https://support.norton.com/sp/en/us/...eb&pvid=f-home

MSE - Microsoft Security Essentials - Microsoft Windows

If the above does not help, run hard disk diagnostics:

Chkdsk:

Chkdsk:
There are various ways to run Chkdsk~


Method 1:

Start > Search bar > Type cmd (right click run as admin to execute Elevated CMD)

Elevated CMD should now be opened, type the following:

chkdsk x: /r

x implies your drive letter, so if your hard drive in question is letter c, it would be:

chkdsk c: /r

Restart system and let chkdsk run.

Method 2:


Open the "Computer" window
Right-click on the drive in question
Select the "Tools" tab
In the Error-checking area, click <Check Now>.

If you'd like to get a log file that contains the chkdsk results, do the following:

Press Windows Key + R and type powershell.exe in the run box

Paste the following command and press enter afterwards:

get-winevent -FilterHashTable @{logname="Application"; id="1001"}| ?{$_.providername –match "wininit"} | fl timecreated, message | out-file Desktop\CHKDSKResults.txt

This will output a .txt file on your Desktop containing the results of the chkdsk.

If chkdsk turns out okay, run Seatools -

SeaTools | Seagate

You can run it via Windows or DOS. Do note that the only difference is simply the environment you're running it in. In Windows, if you are having what you believe to be device driver related issues that may cause conflicts or false positive, it may be a wise decision to choose the most minimal testing environment (DOS).

Run all tests EXCEPT: Fix All, Long Generic, and anything Advanced.

Regards,

Patrick
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Old 08-20-2013, 03:33 PM   #3
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I did as you asked and updated to Service Pack 1, deleted Daemon tools, and got rid of Norton programs.

I ran the chkdsk and it said it was clean.

I ran the two tests on Seatools and these were the results:

Short DST - failed
Short Generic - pass

The problem is still there and hasn't really gotten better at all. Can it really be the Hard Disk failure and not the video card?
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Old 08-20-2013, 03:35 PM   #4
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Hi,

Quote:
Short DST - failed
It appears to be hard disk failure. Did you run this in Windows or in DOS? If you ran Seatools in Windows and got a failure, I'd try running it in DOS to see if you can reproduce the same results there.

Regards,

Patrick
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Old 08-20-2013, 03:52 PM   #5
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Yes, I ran it in Windows and got a failure. How do I run the program in DOS?
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Old 08-20-2013, 03:54 PM   #6
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Here's the tutorial - SeaTools for DOS tutorial

Regards,

Patrick
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Old 08-20-2013, 04:23 PM   #7
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Okay so I ran the program in DOS, and it passed the short test. Should I run any other tests?
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Old 08-20-2013, 04:39 PM   #8
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Run the Long / Extended please while in DOS.

Regards,

Patrick
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Old 08-21-2013, 09:44 AM   #9
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Ran the long test while in DOS and it passed.

I had to run it three times though since it froze the first two times part way through the test.
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Old 08-21-2013, 10:31 AM   #10
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Hi,

The failure in Windows +the freezing two times is very indicative of hard disk failure. Might you have access to another hard disk to use on the computer to see if the issues stop if you install a copy of Windows on it?

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Patrick
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Old 08-21-2013, 10:56 AM   #11
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Yes, I have another hard disk but I do not really have a copy of Windows since my version of Windows 7 came with the computer.

Should I just try and clone my hard disk over to the new one? And see if the issues stop?
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Old 08-21-2013, 11:00 AM   #12
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You COULD do that, but I wouldn't recommend it. It's worth a try if you'd like. Also, now that I think of it, it doesn't matter. You won't be using that copy of Windows long enough for the product key's activation to matter. We will simply be testing it to ensure whether or not it's the hard disk.

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Patrick
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Old 08-21-2013, 12:02 PM   #13
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Why would you not recommend doing that?

EDIT: Also, if its a hard disk failure, would I just need to replace the HDD?
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Old 08-21-2013, 12:08 PM   #14
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Because the problem could be OS corruption and since it's a different hard disk a clean install of Windows won't hurt unless you have files on it you don't want to lose.

And yes, that's what would have to be done.

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Patrick
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Old 08-21-2013, 12:21 PM   #15
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The Apevia 680W is a poor quality PSU and is probably the cause of these problems, however I would make certain to get all of your data back-up off the hard drive before troubleshooting further, because the PSU may have killed the HD, and it's getting ready to go.

Post the voltages and temperatures as reported in BIOS. Remove the secondary HD and any other unnecessary hardware while troubleshooting.
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Old 08-21-2013, 12:22 PM   #16
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Good catch, Janitor. The PSU is incredibly likely.

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Patrick
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Old 08-21-2013, 01:02 PM   #17
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Oh ****, i see, so the the PSU might be the problem then...the noise could either be coming from the PSU or video card but I couldn't really tell...

Is there a better quality equivalent PSU you guys recommend?
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Old 08-21-2013, 01:12 PM   #18
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I've been lurking this tread because something similar happened to me when I installed a sound card in an old Dell that had a 300 W PSU and then tried to play a 3-D strategy game -- I got a loud screaming from the headphones and then a BSOD. I replaced the PSU with a 500 W unit I had and there were no more problems. I'm not saying that an underpowered PSU is the cause of all such type BSOD problems but it definitely caused one once for me.

A good PSU around 650 W will run most single-card gaming rigs. Newegg is selling this Seasonic 620 W unit for $65.

SeaSonic S12II 620 Bronze 620W ATX12V V2.3 / EPS 12V V2.91 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC Power Supply - Newegg.com
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Old 08-21-2013, 01:35 PM   #19
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Hmm I see. How can you tell if a PSU is of poor quality anyways? The reviews for the Apevia were pretty good. Thank-you for the link by the way

Also, I've never backed up files before, what would be the best way? Should I just create a system image?

And yeah, I do have alot of files that I need so I'd rather not do a clean install of the OS if I can help it.

I really appreciate all the help.
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Old 08-21-2013, 02:20 PM   #20
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One way that you can check to see if a PSU is failing is to see if stress-testing your video card will cause monitored voltages to drop significantly under load.

Download Hardware Monitor (linked in my signature) and run it, leaving it running. Now play a 3-D game or run a graphics-intensive benchmark for a while. Return to Hardware monitor and see if the 12 V section shows more than 1 V difference between the minimum and maximum readings. If it does, then your PSU may not be providing stable power under load.
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