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Did I break my computer? :(

9K views 37 replies 6 participants last post by  greenbrucelee 
#1 ·
I started with this:

CPU - Intel Core i7 960
Video Card - ATI Radeon 5870
MOBO - Alienware 0H869M
Memory - G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 8GB
BIOS- a11 (Dell / Alienware current BIOS)

Ended up overclocking the CPU to 3.9 using someone elses #'s for that CPU. It ran everything with stable temps for about 30min, then I decided to go buy a GPU (970gtx)..so I went and got that, came back, installed it, turned on PC. Booted really slow. I get one beep at startup, it continues to boot and all that jazz though. We're just talking back to the stone age status..2-3minutes to boot up windows.. Decided the Overclock was making it boot slow so I opened up BIOS and f9'd back to default settings. Forgot to remove old video drivers so had an awkward time getting those off (used amdcleanutility) and then got my new evga drivers.

I went from 250fps in Counter-Strike:Global Offensive to like 150fps. My computer boots up stupid slow now and it seems like every time I restart my monitors switch off on which one comes up showing the bios loading screen first and then the other one finally cuts on when windows is loading.
 
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#2 ·
For OC I did the following:

speedstep: enabled
c state: enabled
turbo mode: disabled
XMP support: disabled
QPI frequency: 4.8GT
CPU bclk: 165
cpu core voltage offset: +300
RAM voltage: 1.65
IOH voltage: 1.30
QPI ad uncore voltage: +320

that's the stuff I copied from another guy. But I reset it all within 2 hours time and only put the PC under any load for 30-45min tops during which I watched the temps using speedfan. Highest reached was 77c at one point, generally 68-74c
 
#4 ·
I started with this:

CPU - Intel Core i7 960
Video Card - ATI Radeon 5870
MOBO - Alienware 0H869M
Memory - G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 8GB
BIOS- a11 (Dell / Alienware current BIOS)

Ended up overclocking the CPU to 3.9 using someone elses #'s for that CPU.
Every computer is different.
You are best off overclocking your system and running a game to test stability.
Disable Speedstep and C State.
Enable XMP support.
Decrease Ram voltage to 1.5v
Decrease CPU core voltage to +.050v
 
#11 · (Edited)
RAM voltage: 1.65
IOH voltage: 1.30
QPI ad uncore voltage: +320

do not relate to the cpu but relate to the RAM.

What power supply and wattage do you have?

a +300 ofset is pretty high but with speedstep enabled it should keep the cpu for underclocking at idle.

did you stress test with a stress test program if not you should always stress test to make sure everythng is ok. Just playing a game doesn't prove you have a decent overclock or that your system is stable. You need to stress test with prime 95 for atleast 6 hours or 20 passes on very high with IBT.

and as said two people with the same system can get very different results overclocking guides are just that they are guides not definitive ways to overclock your system.
 
#12 ·
N525EF-00 80 plus silver (525W)

I did not stress test. Like I said, I ran 30-45min watching temps..then I closed everything and went to buy new GPU. Came back, put in GPU..PC started slow again so I said screw it..we'll just see how the GPU increases performance instead of the Overclock..so I reset BIOS settings and it has continued to be super slow since.
 
#17 ·
Well I switched back to the old GPU and booting up is still slow. I recorded it to time it...we're talking 3.5minutes just to get in to windows.

I'm running HDD tests now (seatools), should I be running ALL the tests or is there one that covers it all?

Next is memtests.
 
#19 ·
the thing is if its not your hard drive then it probably is because you have used that psu and gpu in your system. Even though you have now switched back the damage has been caused and wont be reversable just because you have swapped back.
 
#23 · (Edited)
First test on one stick of 4gb I ran 3 passes (like 2.5hours)..no errors. Started second stick of 4gb and went to bed...woke up and my computer was on but nothing was showing on the screen and my fan was STUPID loud on my video card (the ATI Radeon HD 5870)..I've since reseated it but it's not getting any better...I mean it's LOUD and sounds broken, very clicky.

This is getting out of control. I have no idea what happened with the 2nd stick since the screen was off (tried turning it on/off) and now my video card fan is so loud I can't leave my computer on like this.

Edit: Using speedfan (which immediately notified me of an issue with my GPU) I manually clocked the fan speed up and the noise is much better. My GPU was 78c under no load at all. I bumped it up to 100% fan speed and then have worked it down to 55% but when I tried to go lower it started again..and I had to go all the way back to 100% to get it to go away..then lowered it back down to 70%.
 
#25 ·
if you have been using a psu which in underpowered for your system which you were (the 300w psu when you need a 550w psu) then it could have over volted some of your components or all of your components.

Usually if you use an underpowered psu it causes damage to the graphics card that you were using along with the psu itself or the motherboard but there are cases when it destroys everything.
 
#30 · (Edited)
I'd like to try a new power supply without having to rewire everything...so I need a psu with the same plug style as the one I currently have. The Alienware aurora is set up nicely cable wise...things are locked away etc and it would require a LOT to rewire the system. Would rather just plug all the cables in to a new supply.

I believe it's a 60pin fully modular...
 
#31 · (Edited)
So in the mean time..so I'm planning on selling the computer to my brother if I can get it working (like $200?) and then buying a new one..what do we think of this build?


Intel Core i7-4790K, EVGA GeForce GTX 970, Corsair 200R - System Build - PCPartPicker

(PSU listed is the extra one I have already)

Will be streaming in OBS, playing CSGO, The Elder Scrolls online, etc. Need an all around good streaming/gaming rig around the $1,000 price point.
 
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