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Husqvarna 55 Rancher won't start

This is a discussion on Husqvarna 55 Rancher won't start within the Small Engines forums, part of the Tech Support Forum category. I've got this chainsaw, its like a son to me. Its done more firewood for me than I can count.

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Old 09-05-2010, 10:50 AM   #1
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I've got this chainsaw, its like a son to me. Its done more firewood for me than I can count. Unfortunately, its owner is a moron. I was busy 2 weeks ago, felt like crap, shouldn't have been using a saw. Refilled the gas-can, never put oil in it. Filled the saw, noted the translucent color... did nothing. Ran the saw for half a tank... It stalled. This thing never stalls... I was already irritated. Ignored the odd behavior.. Started. stalled. Started. Stalled. Died...

The piston, ring, and cylinder were scored pretty badly.
1. Got new set off Ebay w/ sparkplug and cylinder gasket.
2. Replaced piston, cylinder, ring... reassembled saw.

Won't Start.
3. Put a cap-full of gas/oil into the sparkplug hole. Started the saw, ran after a couple of pulls. Died after a few seconds. Tried to start it again. Nothing. Waited a bit, poured more gas/oil into the cylinder. Started.. pulled the throttle right away, bogged down & Died.

4. Spark plug is new, good spark, good gap (0.50mm/0.020")
5. Ignition gap is 0.012"
6. Read on here to put a straw into the gas tank, disconnect the Fuel line from the carb... blow into the straw... gas came out the fuel line easy (and down my pant leg) so the fuel filter isn't clogged.

7. I also read on here about having a stuck needle on the carb, pulled the cover off the carb, needle rises and depresses w/ the lever easily.

8. When I get use the gas/fuel in the spark plug hole method, once it dies and I try to restart it... Occassionally... the pull-cord will act normal for the first 1/4 of a pull then go slack like the flywheel has disengaged (forget what the little levers are that disengage from the pulley once the engine runs).

9. With the entire saw assembled (air filter and saw body Top plate on) the thing seems substantially more difficult to pull (cord wise) than w/ the top cap off. (top cap is just a covering piece of orange plastic that shields the top of the cylinder, spark plug and air filter)

Now, I'm by not a genius with machines but my Dad taught me to pursue something until you understand how and why it works and how to fix it when it doesn't. This saw is my baby and I owe it the time to get it working again regardless of the effort. I detest the concept of tossing something because it doesn't work. I'm hesitant to bring it to the local mechanic my parents trust because my gut is telling me that they'll hesitate to give educational advice and just say "get a new carb" or something of that sort. A carb is about the size of two fingers but has ~60 parts... I'd rather know WHY it isn't working than to just out-right replace it "because."

Any chance you guys can help me figure out what steps to pursue?

I'd really appreciate it (so wouldn't my parents and in-law's who still need firewood :P)

Thanks guys
-Rob T.

PS. I have pictures of just about the whole saw if that'd help anything :)
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Old 09-07-2010, 12:18 AM   #2
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hi there

will the unit run on mix straight down the carb throat if so can be pretty sure
fuel problem or air leak

sounds like you may need to replace the main intake viton sleeve and impulse tube the carb fuel pump is not getting impulse because of a air leak on / around intake sleeve and impulse tube replace carb gasket and rekit the carb with new kit as good practice when you have fitted new piston / rings etc
and make sure the whole thing is sealing properly and compression are spark good as should timmimng key fuel mix should be no less than 50:1 that 20 mils of oil per 1.0 litre of petrol

c/cases need to be air tight

retest and let me know but sounds most likley

cheers paul
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Old 09-07-2010, 03:24 PM   #3
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Paul is spot on... In my over thirty+ years repairing Husky's when the jug is run lean and the scoring effect is obvious by the exhaust side of the cylinder, the heat transfer has to go somewhere! Tends to find itself wearing out the crank seals causing improper air transfer, and little to no atmospheric balance to allow the air pump to function properly.
if you're able to start, try WD-40 spray in the area of the flywheel and clutch, if you observe a difference in runability, your culprit is the crank seals.
Good Luck,
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Old 09-07-2010, 06:38 PM   #4
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Thanks for the replies guys.

I'm going to order a few parts and wait for these blasted Nursing clinicals to ease up a tad and I'll let you know to what end your suggestions have gone.

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