Tech Support Forum banner
Status
Not open for further replies.

Lost power > computer will not turn on

14K views 51 replies 5 participants last post by  Wrench97 
#1 ·
Hello, I recieved some wonderful help a month or so ago when my laptop was giving me trouble, now I am in need again of your assistance.

I was sitting on the couch with my laptop this morning and all of a sudden the power went out, for 20-30 seconds. No storm or anything, it was very bizarre. My desktop computer was on, the monitor was sleeping but the actual computer part was on. It all shut off due to the power surge, obviously. I have a surge protector, so I said whatever, and resumed using my laptop in the meantime.

Went to turn my desktop back on a few hours later... nothing. No fans, no lights, no sounds... just silence. No big deal, I reset the power surge protector. No change. I unplugged everything from my desktop and replugged it in. No change. I called my boyfriend at work to see what I should do, and he said there is a switch on the back and to reset it... but there is NOTHING on the back of my computer (very strange).

The only sign of life is this little green LED on the back of my computer, towards teh top, that blinks every 3 seconds or so EVEN WHEN the computer has nothing plugged into it. Not sure if this is just some sort of battery backup thing, or if it means something important regarding my power supply.

What do I do?

I know little about my computer, I cant really give you teh specs unless its working. Its an HP, I upgraded it to Windows 7 about a year and a half ago. The only hardware it has that didnt come standard with it is a wireless network card. Nothing has changed, I just lost power. I hope it didn't fry anything, because I don't have the money to test out the parts with replacements or bring it to someone.

All I know is that the files on my harddrive is VERY important, and ironically I was just talking with a friend last week about how I hadnt backed up my files for a VERY long time. I highly doubt that they are lost, but I dont know how to get them off my harddrive, all I have to work with is a laptop and boyfriends desktop that he wont want be tampering with.
 
See less See more
#4 ·
Do what everyone suggested except leave it sit a half hour before trying it again. If there still is nothing you burnt the power supply which isn't an expensive problem unless you have one of those "slimline" desktops where the psu is both crap, the only thing available and a fortune to buy!
 
#5 ·
Thank you. I tried everything you guys said, but still no luck.

The blinking light got slower and slower when it was funny unplugged (and makes an annoying but quiet sound every time it blinks) and finally stopped after I held down the power button for a while. I waited a half hour with everything unplugged from it. Still doesn't turn on. Blinking light now blinking every second.

I dont understand how this even happened when I have a surge protector :/ I have no idea how to tell what power supply I have currently, or how to change it and I dont really want to touch stuff like that and risk being shocked or something. Also, I dont want to invest in this power supply if it may not even be the problem. What if my motherboard is fried? I dont know where to go from here :(
 
#13 · (Edited)
I dont understand how this even happened when I have a surge protector
First, a power off (zero voltage) is not a surge (thousands of volts). Second, if you had a surge, then you have numerous less robust and damaged appliances. Surges occur typically once every seven years.

Second, computers have a safety lockout feature do to some anomalies that might cause damage. This safety lockout is reset by disconnecting a computer from the wall for as much as two seconds. More time does nothing. If unplugging does not reset that protective lockout, then other hardware problems exist.

Third, from your posts, a $5 or $17 meter and one minute labor means important numbers. Those numbers mean the next reply will define what is wrong. No more doubts or speculation. Without those numbers, every reply will only be speculation. A list of 'could bes' is long and only speculative.

Fourth, a surge protector adjacent to a computer does not even claim to protect computers from surges. Read the manufacture specs. It makes no protection claims in numbers. At best, it only claims to protect from surges made irrelevant by superior protection already inside HP computers.

Your symptoms imply a manufacturing defect and resulting hardware failure. To say more requires hard facts and numbers. One minute of labor inside the machine gets facts. If you did the safety lockout reset (and assuming the power cord is connected to AC mains), then no useful reply is possible without facts obtained from inside the machine.

From that last post: you cannot rule out anything. A power supply selling only for $20 or $30 is probably missing required functions that were necessary even in the original IBM PC.

Read a number on that protector box. It will define a let-through voltage of maybe 330 volts. That means any voltage less than 330 volts on the 120 mains is completely ignored by that protector. Protector does nothing - even though a majority will recite urban myths that say otherwise.

Numbers are critical to every useful answer. A meter is the only means of obtaining a solution in the next reply. Your only alternative is to keep replacing good parts and fixing things until something works.
 
#10 ·
#12 ·
Here's the link to the HP site for your motherboard, unplug the power cord, remove the side cover of the tower move the jumper cap as shown(scroll down and expand Clearing the Bios settings then expand clearing the CMOS in the link wait 10 seconds move the jumper back to the original position replug the power and try to boot.

Motherboard Specifications, M2N68-LA (Narra) HP Pavilion a6000n Desktop PC - HP Customer Care (Canada - English)
Thank you for the link. My motherboard didnt look exactly like that, but I figured it out and did what it said... no luck :(

Rich-M: Yeah, I think I just found that out the hard way. I know its a few years old at least. I did some research and just learned that one power outage can basically take the life out of a surge protector, so there is no way that mine was doing its job.

This is really unfortunate... I wanted this computer to last a little while longer because I planned on buying a new desktop in the near future, but I dont have the money for it right now. I dont want to invest anything more into this computer, but I need to get it running to get my files (or find a way to get them easily) and to get my photoshop CS5 deactivated.

It looks like power supplies for this model are $20-$30.... more than I want to pay. When openeing up my computer it said it was an ATX-250-12z and for output it said 250W Max... any idea where I can get a cheap replacement? Any way that I can rule out its NOT the motherboard for sure?
 
#11 ·
It almost only can be the psu or the motherboard and that is commonly what happens from a power surge.
Most people don't realize unless you paid more than $65 as a general rule for your power surge protector, it probably isn't a real power surge protector anyway. And even if it was, one good hit and the protection is gone anyway. So is yours new and what is it first of all?
 
#14 · (Edited)
Westom is right and you can buy a device to check the psu, but sometimes that cost can be half what a psu would cost and I am not sure if it makes sense here, since it is something the average user may never use again.
There isn't a cheap psu you would want because the piece of junk that was in there may well have caused the problem, as they often do when they go.
A simple motherboard test could be shutting pc down and remove all ram sticks and restart. If system has a motherboard speaker you should get 3-4 beeps and if you don't you can be pretty sure the board is bad.
Without other components to test this unit, you might be best served by taking it to a shop who can test the board and the psu and tell you for sure but it sounds to me like both frankly. HP uses Bestec or Hipro Psu's which are such poor quality, the systems seldom survive a blowout from one of them anyway.
 
#16 ·
Oh, I thought of something else that may be helpful in my problem. The power button to turn on my desktop is backlit with a yellow LED when powered off, this light is always on. Its blue when the computer is running. There is NO light at all anymore, not sure if this implies anything?
 
#20 ·
There is NO light at all anymore, not sure if this implies anything?
That hard fact implies one of two power supplies inside the PSU is not connecting power to the LED. Anything between AC mains and the LED could explain it. Inspection might discover a least likely reasons; a loose connector. To reduce many potential suspects down to but a few or one means numbers from the meter.

It could even be a simple fuse. Just one of many (and now less) suspects.
 
#17 ·
I hear you but I seriously doubt there is a "cheap fix" here available. Cheap hardware is what caused the end of this pc to begin with and better off throwing it in a closet than buying a cheap psu, it already suffers from that. If the board is bad, there really is no fix at hand because while you can put a board in the case, theirs would be way too expensive to even consider and anyone else's most likely won't turn on due to proprietary power plugs few of us could figure out.
That is a shame as I work on pc's and I always say a desktop should last 5 years and a laptop 3 (due to heat and other issues) but when you buy for price, all that changes. Building for price reduces the quality and value and in this case at the worst possible points in the system.
 
#19 ·
I bought this desktop with intentions of it just being something comfortable for browsing the internet and the occational game. I HAD an Alienware laptop that lasted 5 years, and I have a pretty powerful Sony Vaio laptop right now (that I hardly use.... because I like the comfort of a desktop). Obviously this may change and my Vaio may become my primary computer again. I dont really know HOW my desktop came to be my primary computer, it actually ran extremely well despite not being the best, so for what I paid its been worth every penny and Im a little heartbroken that its gone and died on me, when this morning it was working like a charm.

This is how I feel: if its the motherboard, its dead to me. I will NOT pay to replace that. If its the power supply, and I feel like it is... I dont mind paying for a replacement if I can get a deal.

I found this on Amazon, its cheap, but thats fine to me, it just has to get my by a few more months. Amazon.com: Diablotek DA Series 250-Watt ATX Power Supply PSDA250: Electronics

But im not even 100% sure that will be compatible. From the sticker on the PSU in my computer it says "ATX-250-12z REV D7R .... output 250W MAX ..... HP P/N 5188-2622"

If anyone can help me find a replacement that is compatible with those specs, I would greatly appreciate it.
 
#21 ·
#22 ·
Would anyone be able to please confirm if this model is compatible with my computer, the HP a6000
An listed a preferred and least expensive solution with reasons why. Why are recommendations from others better? BTW, that is not a rhetorical question.

Defined earlier:
A power supply selling only for $20 or $30 is probably missing required functions that were necessary even in the original IBM PC.
So why buy a $13 supply? If $30 is too low, then why is $13 better?

A minimally acceptable supply typically starts at $60 retail.

Selecting a supply on watts is bad practice. A new supply must supply same or more current for each voltage. The original supply will (should) list a current for each 3.3, 5, 12 and other voltages. That new supply must provide at least that many amperes. A higher wattage supply may not supply enough current on one voltage. Then the computer will act like other parts are defective.

Where is the long list of numeric specs for that $13 supply? It does not even list current for each voltage. Does not list the many other required functions. A shortage of specs - and especially no numbers - is the first indication of trouble. Not just in electronics. In just about anything we do in life. Best is to learn by making mistakes.

The existing supply may be cured even and only by replacing a fuse. Your choice. Maybe a $1 fuse. Or $60+ for a minimally equivalent supply.

Numerous reasons suggest why an earlier recommendation is preferred. Above are but a few quick reasons.
 
#25 ·
This is the same exact one that I have right now HP-P3527F3W ATX-250-12Z | Hp 5188-2622 250W Atx Power Supply And its $32, If I can find something comparable for cheaper that is what I am looking for (that lists all the specs). Any help on THIS is appreciated, thanks :)
Your computer was underpowered from day 1 and power supplies degrade over time. It most likely damaged the rest of the components and the odds are it won't fix it anyway. There really are no computers today that should run with a 250 watt psu to begin with. Buying a better one you could still take it to a new pc later on as if you keep buying brand name pc's, you will always be able to use it anyway as they are always improperly powered .
 
#26 ·
Hmm... interesting to know for the future. My next desktop will be purely gaming, so I would expect to need a MUCH larger unit.

I did what you suggested and removed the RAM. I heard no beeps. This may be a stupid question, but how would it make any sort of beeping if its not getting power to begin with? I really hope its not the motherboard :(
 
#34 ·
Ok, we took a look at his computer, and it also has an ATX power supply. However, his computer is all new and organized with everything fastened down and he didnt want to take it appart unless absolutely necessary. I guess he is going to see if he can take the power supply off the old work computer... even if its a pretty old computer it should do the job of testing the motherboard/Ram, correct? I will have to wait until Tuesday night to do this.
 
#35 ·
I guess he is going to see if he can take the power supply off the old work computer... even if its a pretty old computer it should do the job of testing the motherboard/Ram, correct?
All that work and the associated risk of damage to both machines is why one uses a $15 multimeter. One minute of labor. Disconnect and remove nothing. Posting the numbers here to learn at least double what that 'swap a power supply' test can report.
 
#36 ·
Boyfriends computer was a no go, there are so many things connected to it, we didnt want to take everything appart.

I managed to get my fathers PSU... but its from a very old computer and Im not sure if its compatible. Can someone please help me out to determine if its workable, or if I should put his computer back together before I go home.

Its from a Dell desktop, and on the PSU itself it says:
Model HP-P2007F3 REV: a00
AC Input: 50-60hz, 100-127v~/6A
DC Output:
+5V
+3.3V
+5V FP

Max output power 200W

It looks similar, but some of the connectors seem different, Im not sure. The big connectors (I think its 20 pinns or something, it has 10 rows with 2 squares in each with different colored wires, but the 3rd pin down on the right has no wire connected to it, not sure what that means.

This PSU had a floppy drive connected to it, which can help date it in itself, haha. It came with Windows XP, I think its about 7-8 years old.

Please, if someone can tell me if I can test using this. I know my PSU clearly states its ATX where as this one confuses me. Thanks in advance :)
 
#39 ·
Its from a Dell desktop, and on the PSU itself it says:
Model HP-P2007F3 REV: a00
AC Input: 50-60hz, 100-127v~/6A
DC Output:
+5V
+3.3V
+5V FP
All PC power supplies - acceptable or not - will meet those numbers. You did not provide current for each voltage. Therefore no one can say if the supply is sufficient.

If you connect it and use a meter, then the next post will provide your answer without doubt. Any other answer without relevant numbers for each voltage can only be wild speculation.

An engineer who was designing this stuff long before the IBM PC existed has provided the cheapest, easiest, and best answer. Is that other supply too small? Numbers from six wires using the meter would answer that without doubt. And would have defined what is defective so many days ago.

Do some calculations from numbers you have provided. Maximum input is 120 volts at 6 amps. From high school science, Watts equals Voltage times Amps. The supply will draw up to 720 watts. Why is it only rated at 200 watts? That was answered earlier in a post that says why watts says little useful. And why current for each voltage MUST be known.

Get a meter. It is sold even in Wal-Mart because the tool is less complex than a hammer. Then have a complete answer by next morning. No more speculation. By doing everything but what was recommended, what have you accomplished? You are exactly where you were a week ago. Zero progress.

The engineer who was even designing this stuff before the IBM PC existed cannot provide one useful answer when you short your help of the only relevant facts. You are doing everything but the least expensive, easiest, and best solution. Provided was how your problem was identified in one tenth the time and labor.
 
#40 ·
The 2400 supply will work, the main harness will be 20 pin yours may be 24 that's ok the plug will fit and the last 4 will not have a connection, the plug only fits one way. Make sure to plug in the 4 pin square CPU power plug as well as the main 20 pin connector, you can leave the drives unhooked this will at leas tell you if the pc will boot.

Testing with a voltmeter will work most of the time but not 100% of the time if you have access to one use the instructions here> http://www.techsupportforum.com/forums/f210/test-your-power-supply-with-a-multi-meter-151526.html
 
#41 ·
Testing with a voltmeter will work most of the time but not 100% of the time
A multimeter will work 100% of the time. But that URL shows how to have insufficient information. Three digit numbers from a multimeter will report information that many do not appreciate. Even says if the 200 watt supply (that is also a 720 watt supply) is sufficient. An answer without doubt.

Serious facts are contained in a each three digit numbers. The citation's "5 volts on the purple wire" says too little. Explains why so many fail to appreciate a meter.

I never understand why so many fear something new; the best solution.
 
#43 ·
Thank you! Ive said countless times that I am not trying that approach, and I wish he would stop bringing it up over and over again. Its not what Im asking for, and its not helpful, even if the intention is to be helpful.

You, on the other hand, are being very helpful, thank you. I am going to test it out now and I will post the results shortly.
 
#44 ·
Great news! I did what you said, and when I pushed the power button it started up. Lights went on and the fan on the motherboard started spinning. It started beeping a lot, so I am assuming this means that my motherboard is OK?

Where should I go from here? Should I now do the test where I remove the RAM or is this sufficient to prove that its the power supply? Should I try hooking up everything and seeing if my computer can boot fully (hooking up the monitor and drives)?
 
#48 ·
If I remember correctly this is a stock HP using integrated video correct?
This is what I would use for a replacement> Newegg.com - Antec NEO ECO 400C 400W Continuous Power ATX12V 2.3 / EPS12V 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC Power Supply more costly than the Diablotek but it's a quality supply, where the Diablotek definitely is not.
Yes, integrated video.

Thank you for that link, I really appreciate it. I wouldnt mind paying more now that I know for sure the power supply is the culprit, where as before I wanted cheap in case it wasnt the issue. If you think this is a reliable product, I can justify the $35, and its free shipping, so that is a plus.

Thank you so much for all your help! Hopefully Ill get the part in and it will work like a charm and you won't have to hear from me again, haha.
 
#50 ·
Bad news... or maybe Im just doing something wrong.

Got the power supply. Put it inside my computer. I THINK I hooked it up right, but this new PSU has lots of cords and connectors. I hooked up the square 4 prong one (my PSU came with 2 of these that branch off from each other, so one is hooked up, the other is not), the 24 pin one, and I had 2 of the 4 pin connectors that are in a line. I just hooked them up to a random open connector on my PSU (it has several, some branch off from one another so not sure if this matters).

Pressed the power button and fans spin, lights come on... but it keeps on beeping at me. It doesn't boot and the monitor isn't reacting. Please tell me I forgot to hook up something and thats it D:
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
You have insufficient privileges to reply here.
Top