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Harddrive beeped clicked beeped click

This is a discussion on Harddrive beeped clicked beeped click within the Hard Drive Support forums, part of the Tech Support Forum category. Well i still haven't gotten around to fixing my old drive however i did load it up hopefully maybe something


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Old 08-30-2010, 05:56 PM   #1
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Well i still haven't gotten around to fixing my old drive however i did load it up hopefully maybe something could be salvaged then i hear like a beep click beep click beep click beep click for maybe 5 second duration after that nothing.

I was wondering if anybody knew what that specifically meant, maybe it would be a more identifiable and specific error based on how the harddrive acted.

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Old 08-30-2010, 06:42 PM   #2
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What is the make and model?

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Old 08-30-2010, 10:40 PM   #3
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it's from this thread i started about 2 months ago

http://www.techsupportforum.com/f16/...ml#post2767502


Front label:
Model - HDT721010SLA360 Hitachi Deskstar 7K1000.B 1 TB
P/N - 0A38016 / 0A38016BA31200C96
Speed - 7200 RPM
MLC - BA3120
Country of Orig. - "MADE IN CHINA BY HITACHI GLOBAL E182115 CN
STORAGE PRODUCTS(SHENZHEN)CO.. LTD..CN"
Rev. - I don't see the revision anywhere?
DP/N - I don't see this either?

On the PCB itself will be a small white label you must match

First two lines exact - 0A29991
BA3129_
Last two lines as close as possible - Mzh916
8095
Close date

I've managed to find somebody who has exact copy of this drive so they claim, but never got around to purchasing to replace the pcb and possibly resolder the logic chip. If the problem however is identifiable to be the pcb that's messed up definitely will buy it.
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Old 08-31-2010, 03:00 AM   #4
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Sounds more like a motor/bearing issue or maybe bad heads.. does it sound like anything here... http://datacent.com/hard_drive_sounds.php
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Old 08-31-2010, 10:43 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raptor_pa View Post
Sounds more like a motor/bearing issue or maybe bad heads.. does it sound like anything here... http://datacent.com/hard_drive_sounds.php
the link you gave me i clicked on the hitachi - Hitachi laptop drive with bad heads clicks once on spin up, then beeps. The noise appears to be what was made consistently for like 5-6 times after that it didn't make it.

So its bad header then? so how does one go about to replace this then. Cheaply on my own.


EDIT: it's stating that replacing the headers requires the same drive as well, so theoretically i should get that drive regardless and hope for it to just be a pcb issue if not then i have to replace the header, would this be difficult? keep in mind i have no intention to send it to a repair place.


EDIT2: i think i'm going to buy a duplicate of my drive exactly and give it a go.
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Old 08-31-2010, 12:31 PM   #6
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You have to match MLC, date, country of origin, firmware as well as EXACT model number. heads are not easy. I was actually in the class with Wes and this is easier than the old ways it was done, but also keep in mind in this video, Scott didn't show HOW to get to the point where the tool was inserted between the heads :) Good luck with it, Getting some drives to practice on is always a good idea tho, even in classes I have rarely seen first time head swaps work and you will have more than the simple single platter 2 head drive scott worked on, likely 2 -4 platters and 4 - 8 heads so you will 4 -8 tools, one set fo4r the donor, one for the patient. It is anything but a simple process, and should be done in a clean room to avoid contaminating the drive. Also, the drive will probably be slow to respond, it will likely not be useable for much longer than the actual recovery process, so make sure you have another drive of sufficient size so you can get the data out ASAP. If you don't match everything mentioned above, then you may not get an exact match for the heads.
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Old 08-31-2010, 02:28 PM   #7
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Well maybe you can tell me how to get it inserted between the heads, i mean i understand your in recovery business, but paying for recovery is not an option for me, i'm sure you and other users understand.

I don't have drives to test with, but i guess i can buy a few old school drives and give it a shot i suppose.

As for the problem i stated so the changes are that it is either pcb due to bad firmware or head's that need to get replaced correct?
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Old 08-31-2010, 03:04 PM   #8
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From the sound I would suspect heads, PCB board usually is no spin, a lot of the firmware is on the platter surface in the Service area. As far as insertion, a small pair of very fine tweezers ( like Scott is using, and you have to just practice. They rarely go in the first time. The trick is to be close enough to the heads/sliders to keep them apart without actually coming in contact with the heads.
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Old 08-31-2010, 05:37 PM   #9
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i still don't understand whats going inside the video, but i'll do my diligence. So i have the find and EXACT match donor drive and then have an additional drive, wow. =\ err
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Old 08-31-2010, 06:05 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by umhuman10 View Post
i still don't understand whats going inside the video, but i'll do my diligence. So i have to find the EXACT match and donor drive and then have an additional drive, wow. =\ err
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Old 08-31-2010, 06:11 PM   #11
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And if you want to add the board, you need to also find a drive where the first two lines of the four lines on the white sticker on the board match the patient. I'll also warn you this, I found a close match today for an 80 GB Western Digital 2.5 inch drive price was $160.00 plus shipping. 1TB drives I have paid between $300 and $400 for a matching drive. When you start matching all the numbers, the price goes way up. The vendors know it is for recovery, and they have to put a lot more work into getting the drive rather than just grabbing any XXGb SATA/IDE drive.
This article is another good starting point
http://hddguru.com/articles/2006.02....stack-Q-and-A/
and understand. Scott's class is about 50 - 60 hours of classroom lecture and labs, hard to condense that into a 7 minute video.
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Old 09-02-2010, 11:19 PM   #12
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My drive is the hitachi 7K1000.B, ranges from 160gb-1000gb. I want to do head stack replacement practice, i was wondering would it matter if bought a lower density or should i just stick with practicing other 1000gb drive? same model off course. lower density's lower platters but would it matter much? all i'm trying to do is replace the headstack.
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Old 09-04-2010, 10:19 AM   #13
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I was wondering something else, could i just open up the internals and see for myself whats wrong with the head stack, maybe it's just out of line and i can realign it? good idea or not?
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Old 09-04-2010, 10:43 AM   #14
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The big question is, do you have any idea what it is suppoed to look like? the alignment is in microns, not something you will see. This isn't like fixing a car. In a lab, you inspect heads with a microscope, the 'big' (relatively peaking) black/gray block you see on the end of the armature is not the head, that is the slider, the head itself is attached to the slider. If alignment was something you could see, it wouldn't take hours for an engineer to re-align Western Digital heads.
Your best bet ( again best is relative) is to match a donor and do the swap. I can all but guarantee it will not work, but if you are bound to go ahead with a DIY attempt, then about all I can do is offer the best advice on how to proceed. You could start with some smaller capacity drives, but keep in mind, they are not just lower density platters. the number of platters will also increase as capacity increases, meaning more sets of heads in the headstack. Lower capacity are agood place to start, but removing heads from a single platter drive is a lot easier than a four platter drive....

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