As a general rule, if the drive spins up on Seagates it is an outside chance that a PCB swap will solve the issue. First thing to do is get the USB board off the drive and get it attached to a SATA port directly in a desktop, this will eliminate the translation of the USB interface and the USB ports themselves as potential problems.
You will probably not be able to buy a PCB alone for this drive - there are some companies out of Asia that sell PCBs, the problem is there is no way to verify teh board you get is any good if the parent drive didn't come with it. You always want to be able to test the donor drive for functionality before harvesting it for parts - otherwise if it fails you always have the nagging question - was it any good.
Now as far as matching the board. On Seagate for board swap you must match model number, firmware, site code. Seagate uses a date code, if you google seagate date code, you will find on line apps to translate this into a readable date you want to get as close as possible on the date, usually within a couple of months. If you can match the first three of the serial number, this is even better, but not an absolute, the others are.
Now as to the chances of success - probably a bit better than 50% but not a lot , and here's why. Certain parameters of the drive are specific to each individual drive, based on tolerances and individual differences in the manufacturing process. Almost all platters have defects, these defects are remapped to good spare sectors and stored in the drives p-table, if the service area of the drive, the area which contains a lot of the boot code, cannot be located at the desired normal location, this area is moved and the new location is in the part of the firmware stored in the ROM/NVRam chip on the PCB. There are a lot of other 'adaptive' parameters that are specific to each drive - preamp bias voltages, control voltages for the head angle based on the zone map. A lot of this info is in the rom chip so it is often required to move the rom chip from the patient board to the donor board, or to use special hardware to read the rom and reprogram the donor board's rom.
Now as far as procuring the replacement. Basically you will have to purchase used.
Here is one sorce for PCBs only, but they may not have newer drives...
You can try ebay, find a close match on the drive, then contact the seller to make sure other parameters match. Hopefully you get the correct drive from the seller.
You can also try googling "used hard drives" or other keywords, then contact the vendors who have a lot of the parameters already recorded, because they sell to Data Recovery shops. Be aware, you will probably pay considerably more from a vendor for the used drive than you would for a new one. I have ordered 80GB 2.5 inch matched drives that cost $145.00 - 1TB drives can go for 350 - 450 each for a match. EBAY will probably be cheaper, but i have gotten some drives that were not a solid match, even after contacting the seller, and if the info wasn't in the ad, you may have a tough time getting your money back.
So there it is in a nutshell. First thing I would do is get the drive mounted in a desktop, directly to SATA ports and see if the drive is identified correctly by mdel number and capacity in BIOS. If it is ID's correctly, then it is almost definitely NOT a PCB issue, but you can't tell for certain with teh USB connection.