i just done a top end rebuild on my truck put it all back together now it wont start #1 is at tdc and distributor is pointed right at it i have spark and fuel (fuel obviously) but i took the plugs back out and #8 and i beleive #5 had gas pour out of the holes #8 was worse then 5 what is this caused by and how do i fix it
Re: 92 chevy 350 wont start (gas pours out of plug hole)
Double check your work see that you didn't crimp a ground wire to the injector harness when you were putting it together.
Look at the TBI injectors for any leakage when the ignition is on (engine off) hook up a fuel pressure gage the injectors must hold fuel pressure. When cranking the engine the injectors are pulsed at a specific rate, the spray pattern on the injectors must be cone shaped. Use a timing light and point it at the injectors to look at the pattern. Even if the engine does not start have an assistant with you to crank the engine for 5 seconds while you point the timing light, if its not cone shaped the injectors are leaking which will cause flooding.
When you turn the key on (engine off) listen to the fuel pump if its constantly running. If it is pull the fuel relay out first and if the pump is still running you got a bad ECM.
Question: Are cylinders 5 & 8 the only ones that are flooded while all the other cylinders are dry ?
The firing order is18436572. So if you are pointing right at #1 it must have both valves closed and at tdc when the rotor touches #1 terminal. also are the valvares adjusted properly? And what about spark? If the Tbilisi is shooting right. And you hqave fire there shouldn't be any unburnt fuel
Re: 92 chevy 350 wont start (gas pours out of plug hole)
yes i got it running... finally had to go back and redo the valve adjustment had them to tight.... last thing i thought of... did it by the book first time... wont do that again...thanx for all the help
Best way I found to adjus Chevrolet valves is tighten each one while the engine is at tdc only until there is no movement, then start the engine and back each one off until it flattered, then tighten it until it makes no more noise. Then go on to the next one, and do it in the firing order. Only problem with that method is that it's messy unless you have a set of "valve clips" which ate nothing more than oil deflectors.
Bring #1 to TDC (rocker arms wiil be even with each other)....tighten adjustment nut until all play is removed and some resistance is felt when turning each (2 of them) pushrod for that cyl. and tighten an additional 3/4 turn. Using a breaker bar (or suitable tool....long ratchet) and correct size socket on the bottom pulley (harmonic balancer) nut, rotate the engine 90 degrees in the direction of rotation and adjust #8 cyl the same as instructed for #1 cyl. Continue adjusting each pair of rocker arms by rotating the engine 90 degrees at a time, following the firing order. You will have made 2 complete rotations of the engine in order to adjust all 16 valves.
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