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[SOLVED] 2002 Nissan Altima 2.5 using 1qt oil every 100 miles?

This is a discussion on [SOLVED] 2002 Nissan Altima 2.5 using 1qt oil every 100 miles? within the Automotive Support forums, part of the Tech Support Forum category. No oil dripping on driveway. New PCV valve. Runs smooth. No fouled plugs. Some grey smoke when I floor the


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Old 02-12-2010, 06:32 PM   #1
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No oil dripping on driveway. New PCV valve. Runs smooth. No fouled plugs. Some grey smoke when I floor the gas but not a whole lot. The oil on the dipstick is black!
Any thoughts?

http://www.nissanforums.com/l31-2002...03-altima.html
http://www.carcomplaints.com/Nissan/...sumption.shtml

Mileage is 137,000 miles. It started burning an occasional quart at around 100,000. The 1qt/100 began about 1,000 miles ago as we returned on a trip from IL back to KY. A relatively sudden change.

My Internet research pointed to rings, but the exhaust valve guide seals makes a lot of sense. I had often thought that, 1qt/100, it was like the engine was pushing the oil straight out the tail pipe.

In the morning, I'll take a closer look at the tail pipe. I, also, need to check the anti-freeze.

I still wonder why the oil is pitch black.

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Old 02-13-2010, 05:23 AM   #2
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When was the last time you changed the oil??

Sludge will develop on top of the head and block the oil return passages with lack of proper maintenance (routine oil changes). The oil should not be black....or thick. It sounds like you are losing the oil around the valve stems because it has no way to return to the pan.

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Old 02-14-2010, 12:12 PM   #3
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I've posted this problem on some other forums and your diagnosis makes the most sense so far. The missing piece of the puzzle has been the blocked oil return passages. At 1qt/100 miles, I thought the oil on the dipstick should be brand new.

Logic tells me that, if all that oil was blowing past the rings and into the cylinders, I'd have fouled plugs and a cloud of grayish blue smoke following me down the road. Does that make sense?

So, is my next move to have the valve guide seals replaced and sludge cleaned up? Or is there a less invasive, try this first, possibility?

One post recommended that I change the timing belt and water pump if the cylinder head is off.

I was about ready to trade the car off and just take the loss, but now it's looking repairable.
Thanks!
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Old 02-14-2010, 12:40 PM   #4
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Do a Compression test first to see if the rings are indeed bad.
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Old 02-14-2010, 12:42 PM   #5
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Valve seals can be replaced without pulling the head as long as the valves are still sealing properly to the head.
A special air plug can be put into the spark plug hole and the cylinder pressurized to hold the valves closed, at which point the valve keepers and spring can be removed and the seal can be replaced.
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Old 02-14-2010, 05:22 PM   #6
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I would start simple and get the sludge out of the oil passages and change the oil and filter. Nobody said anything about pulling the head!! At this point, unless there is a major problem, the only thing that needs removed is the valve cover to clean the passage-ways. Unless you are very mechanical inclined stick to cleaning the sludge. Wrench and MT are also offering good advice, but replacing the valve-stem oil seals is no task for a novice. If the keepers are not "just right" when you are finished, you stand a chance of losing a valve.. which will drop and hit the top of the piston. Along with the specil fitting, a source of compressed air (to hold the valve closed) you will need a spring compressor to remove the keepers (which hold the retainers)... does this sound like fun yet?? With luck you may not have to remove the pushrods to clean them out.... they supply the oil for the top end of your engine (valve train) and that is the final destination of the oil, which flows back to the pan to start the journey all over again.

IMO if this engine is sludged up as bad as I think, there will be more damage than you care to fix. The bearings will most likely be scored and all moving parts will have undue premature wear.
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Old 07-06-2010, 01:04 PM   #7
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I have the same problem. Oil in exhaust, no smoke, back of car black and oily, but plugs are clean. Fillm er up with oil every couple days.
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Old 07-06-2010, 09:41 PM   #8
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the easiest way to tell if its guides or rings when you first start it after a long time sitting does it give you a big puff of smoke out the exhaust
Yes = stopped up drain passages or guides seals worn out
No = oil rings
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Old 07-08-2010, 03:10 PM   #9
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Also, depending on the motor, you might be able to replace valve stem seals w/o pressurizing the cylinders with air. If the piston to valve clearances are small, you can put the pistons up to TDC one at a time, which will keep the valve in place by resting on top of the piston. Replace the seal, move the next cylinder to TDC and repeat. But you need to verify that this will work with your particular motor before attempting....
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Old 07-08-2010, 09:24 PM   #10
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Raylo
That is very risky ... plus when you try to put the spring and retainers on it is pretty hard to get the valve up high enough.... wouldnt recommend that to a Amateur i did it once and it wasnt fun and have to have some knowledge on how to get that valve back up for the retainer clips
Then you add if he really doesnt know what he is doing he may not get a retainer into the second notch and end up swallowing a valve
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Old 07-09-2010, 03:11 AM   #11
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I am not a pro and I did it a couple years ago w/o a problem on my LT1 Camaro but I only attempted it after others proved the procedure out before me. I do admit that I was leery at first but it really worked out great. Certainly easier than trying to get an air fitting screwed into LT1 cylinders, especially #2. If you ever did plugs on this car you would understand. :-/

It totally depends on the car and I would never recommend someone do it without checking this out thoroughly with other owners/mechs that had worked on the particular motor.

Agree that if the cylinder spark plug holes are easliy accessible air is the way to go, but if access is difficult the TDC method might can be a good alternative.
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Old 07-09-2010, 03:55 AM   #12
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If the plugs are clean hows the oil getting into the exhaust, I would look for an external leak first.
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Old 07-09-2010, 11:54 AM   #13
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Wrench is right. Seems highly unlikely that you could burn that much oil via bad valve seals or rings w/o evidence on the plugs. I've never seen a motor burn that much oil. And I have seen others that burned far less oil repeatedly foul the plugs. Interesting to see how this one turns out.....
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Old 07-09-2010, 01:13 PM   #14
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I'm with wrench, oil anywhere in the cylinder will show up on the spark plugs, I'
d start by looking for little drops of oil everywhere, if you were burning a quart every 100 miles you'd be spraying for bugs.
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Old 07-09-2010, 09:26 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raylo View Post
I am not a pro and I did it a couple years ago w/o a problem on my LT1 Camaro but I only attempted it after others proved the procedure out before me. I do admit that I was leery at first but it really worked out great. Certainly easier than trying to get an air fitting screwed into LT1 cylinders, especially #2. If you ever did plugs on this car you would understand. :-/

It totally depends on the car and I would never recommend someone do it without checking this out thoroughly with other owners/mechs that had worked on the particular motor.

Agree that if the cylinder spark plug holes are easliy accessible air is the way to go, but if access is difficult the TDC method might can be a good alternative.
The plugs arent to bad when you got a lift LOL and can stand under it but the plug wires thats the headache to do and route them the right way

you are mechanically inclined with some common sense that is what makes the dif in being able to do it and NOT


If he was leaking a qt ever 100 mi. the under side of that Nissan would be saturated and when he shut it off it would be smoking from the oil on the exhaust
KySlugBug
All engines are going to use more oil on a trip where you are at high speeds for awhile .... i dont think you are being accurate on the consumption of the oil ... check the oil level in the morning BEFORE you ever start it fill it to level line drive it your 100 miles let sit over night and check it the next morning and see were it is on the stick

Is most of your driving highway or city
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Old 07-10-2010, 11:52 AM   #16
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[QUOTE=kjms1;2797989

If he was leaking a qt ever 100 mi. the under side of that Nissan would be saturated and when he shut it off it would be smoking from the oil on the exhaust
[/QUOTE]

Unless there is no rear main seal at all in the block and its all draining out that way, but then there would still be oil all over the transmission bottom
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Old 07-12-2010, 10:03 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjms1 View Post
If he was leaking a qt ever 100 mi. the under side of that Nissan would be saturated and when he shut it off it would be smoking from the oil on the exhaust
KySlugBug
All engines are going to use more oil on a trip where you are at high speeds for awhile .... i dont think you are being accurate on the consumption of the oil ... check the oil level in the morning BEFORE you ever start it fill it to level line drive it your 100 miles let sit over night and check it the next morning and see were it is on the stick. Is most of your driving highway or city
I probably rebuilt my 1st engine before you were born (59 MGA). If I'm not checking the oil level accurately, I could probably tell by the dozens of quarts of oil that have overflowed from the engine onto my driveway. Think about it.

Most of my miles were highway. No sludge build up in cylinder head oil returns. Had my mechanic scope (camera) the cylinders through the spark plug hole. Only one cylinder looked wet. They said that plugs burn a bunch hotter in these modern engines, but one cylinder?

I traded the Nissan in for new wheels several months ago. Decided the possible repairs on an 8 year old car weren't worth the financial risk.

Solution: When your 2003-2006 Nissan burns its 1st quart of oil, sell it quick!!!
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Old 07-12-2010, 10:12 AM   #18
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Since you traded the car off KySlugBug, gonna mark this one as solved.

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