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1990 chevy c1500 350 v8 5.7L automatic WON'T START!

This is a discussion on 1990 chevy c1500 350 v8 5.7L automatic WON'T START! within the Automotive Support forums, part of the Tech Support Forum category. hello everyone...new to the site, in need of help and im an amatuer (i know a few things), so please


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Old 09-12-2012, 12:39 AM   #1
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hello everyone...new to the site, in need of help and im an amatuer (i know a few things), so please put things in layman terms.

few weeks ago i got into my truck, started it, drove down to the store, put gas in it and bought cigarettes. i get back into my truck, turn the key and nothing. gauges, lights and radio all turn on but when i turn the key i get nothing...no clickin, no grinding..no nothing. a friend drives by, we try jumping it with jumper cables......NOTHING! another friend happens to come out of the store and tries to arc/jump the starter.....NOTHING! got a ride home and had the truck towed home. friends at work were saying that it could be the starter...i take the starter out. i take it down to autozone to have it tested, it passes. i put the starter back in, turn the key....NOTHING! take the battery out and have it tested...low on charge, they charge it, put it back in, turn the key....NOTHING!!!

any advice, tips and suggestions would be really helpful.

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Old 09-12-2012, 06:18 AM   #2
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Hi:

I would be checking the fuseable link. Not sure where that would be located.

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Old 09-12-2012, 04:02 PM   #3
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thx for the reply

theres 2 fuseable links connected to the positive wire, connecting to the battery. one goes to the alternator and the other runs down to the starter/solenoid. though they are "line in" fuseable links...don't know how to get into them to check the fuse.
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Old 09-14-2012, 06:29 AM   #4
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Hi soypisto75


Disconnect the line in to the starter solenoid and alternator and do a continuity test with a DVOM. If there is no continuity replace the starter solenoid fusible link with the appropriate fuse rating.
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Old 09-17-2012, 05:34 PM   #5
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well i finally got some free time to get under my truck and "REALLY" try to jump the solenoid/starter......AND THE TRUCK STARTED UP!!! so, from what a friend at work was telling me, that means its a problem from the ignition/steering column to the solenoid, correct?
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Old 09-18-2012, 04:03 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soypisto75 View Post
well i finally got some free time to get under my truck and "REALLY" try to jump the solenoid/starter......AND THE TRUCK STARTED UP!!! so, from what a friend at work was telling me, that means its a problem from the ignition/steering column to the solenoid, correct?


Not necessarily, you may have a broken wire to the solenoid or excessive current draw. You have to do voltage and continuity test on the solenoid wire.
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Old 09-18-2012, 04:31 AM   #7
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I had a 77 GMC Sprint (El Camino) that had a solenoid fail - if DC to the solenoid activator post doesn't make the solenoid pick up, then that's the issue.

Some good info -> 1990 Chevy C1500 starter won't crank? - Yahoo! Answers
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Old 09-21-2012, 03:33 PM   #8
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don't really know how to do a test like that. i have a DVOM, could you please give me really detailed instructions, thank you.
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Old 09-21-2012, 04:11 PM   #9
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IF your solenoid looks like the one here -> STARTER SOLENOID Chevrolet C1500 C2500 C3500 Pickup Truck Impala Lumina S10 | eBay you simply use a jumper from the positive post to touch that smaller (silver) solenoid post and see if it picks up the circuit (the starter should start to turn),
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Old 09-21-2012, 04:18 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soypisto75 View Post
don't really know how to do a test like that. i have a DVOM, could you please give me really detailed instructions, thank you.
Voltage test:
Disconnect solenoid wire from the starter take your DMM and set it 20v D/C. Place your positive lead on the solenoid wire and the negative lead to the negative of the battery. Have an assistant with you to turn the ignition key in the crank position. The meter should give 12.65v or higher. Anything below 12.04 volts the battery is weak. If no voltage is present you need to check your starter relay and the neutral safety switch.


Voltage drop cranking test. ( positive side)

Disable your ignition and fuel system. Take your negative lead and place it on the positive battery terminal, and then place your negative lead on solenoid wire with solenoid wire connected to the starter. Place your meter on 20v D/C have your assistant crank the engine. You shouldn't see more than a 0.7 drop. Anything more than 0.7 there is high resistance and problem is with the starter cable.



Voltage drop cranking test ( negative side).

With ignition and fuel disabled take your positive lead and place it on the negative battery terminal. Place your negative lead on the starter casing, have your assistant crank the engine. Your meter readings should be no more than 0.25v. Anything more the problem is with the cable or connection to the battery.


Note: If your vehicle is equipped with a starter disabling system from the manufacturer, it cannot be tested you will have to take it to the dealer.


Move away from any moving engine pulleys and belt tensioner, any loose clothing or meter wires can jam between belt pulleys and cause serious injury to yourself and destroy your testing equipment.
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Old 09-26-2012, 06:12 PM   #11
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haven't done any of those tests...instead i went to O'Reilys and put a deposit on a OBD 1 code scanner. These are the codes that came out of my truck
DTC 16: battery voltage high/low
DTC 17: RPM signal problem
DTC 29: 4th gear switch failure
DTC 43: Electronic spark control module failure
DTC 51: PROM error
DTC 68: Cruise system fault
DTC 69: High A/C pressure switch failure
DTC 88: Engine control module reset
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Old 09-27-2012, 07:01 AM   #12
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The codes indicate that the computer is not receiving any external input from the ignition system.

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