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Acer 7520 Vista Laptop will not start.

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Old 12-01-2009, 03:39 AM   #81
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Voltage is healthy enough for battery, not worth replacing.

Go with the RAM first and research the processor.

The processor should have the same voltage, bus speed and pin configuration to what you already have. The clock speed, don’t put in more than your mobos stated max. Preferably try for the same clock speed, cos the faster you go, the hotter the lappy will get.

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Old 12-01-2009, 07:52 AM   #82
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Visit this link and compare processors.

http://www.cpu-world.com/CPUs/K8/AMD...K55HAX4DC.html

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Old 12-04-2009, 03:16 PM   #83
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Hi Guys, got probably the same issue as you guys. My laptop just starts for 2 seconds and reboots, no screen, only the fan spins up and the power light goes on.

I tried your first solution "night shift", but my floppy drive won't light up.
I completly buildout my motherbord, resettet every thing, but can't start my usb stick and usb floppy drive to work. Do you get any idea's left to get one of those working?
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Old 12-04-2009, 04:01 PM   #84
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Welcome onboard cossy

If you have read all the posts, then we are going to watch this space, Acerkid is going to try a systematic hardware replacement to see what happens.

What lappy do you have and how old is it?
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Old 12-04-2009, 04:44 PM   #85
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Hi night shift,

I also got a acer 7520G, it is 17 months old now. So no warrenty left :(

I tried several this, what I did notice that the FN+ESC will have some affect, it will enter the special mode. But not reading my floppy or USB stick, Tomorrow I will try it with an bootable CD (found that on an other forum). Just try and error I guess.
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Old 12-05-2009, 02:21 AM   #86
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hi lads its definetly a motherboard/electonic component fault,mine died again monday,i pushed the normal things but it did not want to know,so i stripped down and left motherboard in and connected everything bar keypad and touch pad,thus leaving it so it can boot up(leave hd,mem,dvd,batt all in),i noticed after about an hour how hot the board was round about were the battery connector is,the fan was coming on now and again,anyway theirs a diode/resistor with 20m i think written on it i pushed with a pda stylus and ping back into life,then after it started it pushed the 20m component again and the screen went off,then on so its defo in that area,by the way its built back up and working great,dont waste money on buying new hardware it wont work,these mobos are shite.
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Old 12-05-2009, 04:01 AM   #87
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Well falcons this is starting to hold up my thermal stress theory. Where over time the mobo solder joints start to dry out. Remember my link ( http://www.techsupportforum.com/f108...ml#post2434909 ) where I rewetted the joints with a heat gun.

Well that old Acer is still going no problems.

What to do Dudes is buy yourselves a small gas soldering iron that comes with a hot air attachment, it will also probably come with the blowtorch attachment too, you don’t want to use that one. The hot air attachment is designed to give a constant blast of hot air that can melt solder, and this is what you want to do, rewet the solder joints.

This is the model I use, this is a pro version but there are cheaper equivalents which do exactly the same job.

http://www.ttcuk.com/apk-portasol-pr...kit-1302-p.asp
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Old 12-07-2009, 12:42 PM   #88
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Hi Guys, I'm back.

Well I finally had time to strip the lappy bare with the MBO loose.

I've got my gas soldering iron pencil and the cleaning fluid which I've cleaned all the plug-in connections whether its hardware or ribbon connectors etc.

Now, using the Iron

1) Which side of the IC's & diodes/resistors etc on the MBO should we heat to re-melt the solder. The IC side or underside.

2) How hot, just enough to see the solder just about to melt or more.

3) Has every solder joint, everywhere got to be done or just hardware connections and components (IC/resistors/diodes/etc)

Or is there a link to instructions.

Falcons, where on the board was this resistor etc.

Cossy seems to have my problem too.


Soon be Christmas, then will I or won't I get my lappy back or will it be down to the Sales.
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Old 12-07-2009, 01:45 PM   #89
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Quote:
What to do Dudes is buy yourselves a small gas soldering iron that comes with a hot air attachment, it will also probably come with the blowtorch attachment too, you don’t want to use that one. The hot air attachment is designed to give a constant blast of hot air that can melt solder, and this is what you want to do, rewet the solder joints.
Acerkid did you read my last post? Does your iron have this attachment? If yours has the blowtorch and you go too close to the mobo you will evapourate the solder and it will be like going to your mobo with a light sabre.

Tell me what you have first before going near your mobo?
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Old 12-07-2009, 02:45 PM   #90
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Oops.

Thats rushing it, Its a Torch Pencil with Soldering Tip, Diffuser & Torch Tip.
It says its suitable for PVC pipe bending, solder, plastics etc
Soldering iron, Blowtorch.


Is it any good ??
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Old 12-07-2009, 03:22 PM   #91
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It's cool, well its not cool cos its a blowtorch, but yes it will do the job.

What you need to be is carefull, you dont want to get too close to the mobo. If you have noticed when you turn the BLOWTORCH on there is a nice blue cone shape in the flame, well...... right at the tip of that flame its F...in hot, hot enough to make mild steel red hot, melt brass and set fire to your mobo.

The secret hear is to heat the solder until it goes a brighter silver colour, this is called a remelt.

Remove your CPU from the board and also your RAM. Go round all the solder joints round the graphics chip, RAM connector, CPU connector and BIOS chip............remember its a very fine balance between getting the heat right to rewet and burning the board.

Be very careful.
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Old 12-08-2009, 05:38 AM   #92
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Ok

I've seen somewhere a video of this "re-melt" of a motherboard, done a search but can't find it. What about this French version you mention.

Thought I'd watch first before Meltdown.

Thanks
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Old 12-08-2009, 01:05 PM   #93
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The process the French Dude used is called re-flowing or remelting. The process i used was a little tamer. I could not find the original post but I have found the process of re-flowing here on video.

Enjoy:

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Old 12-09-2009, 10:01 AM   #94
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Have you watched the video yet?

The actual process of reflowing is when multiple components are originally attached to a pcb with a solder paste and a uniform heat is applied enogh to melt the flux and solder to bond the components to the pcb.


Word of caution; take the dudes advice and be careful with all things plastic. What this video is showing you is an attempt at rewetting (remelting) any residual flux and solder in the hope of curing dry joints.

Remember I took a more liberal approach, if you use the process in the video heed all the instructions given, also remove any component that is not soldered down to the board

The process worked on my GPU (luck maybe? I don't know), remember this I would give a 50% success rate. Which I think are good odds at the moment.
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Old 12-17-2009, 05:19 AM   #95
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Hi guys,

Guess what, my lappy is back from the dead.

Well nearly all the way.

It boots and the screen is back, but I'm back to square one with the NVIDIA bit.

NVIDIA BOOT AGENT 249.0542
PXE-E61: MEDIA TEST FAILURE, CHECK CABLE
PXE-MOF: EXITING NVIDIA BOOT AGENT

Any suggestions ???

Thanks
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Old 12-17-2009, 06:30 AM   #96
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Well done Dude what did you do? So we can all learn.

The fault you have, try this:

Go into your bios and on the menu heading named Main, set the Network Boot to [Disabled].

Well done mate
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Old 12-17-2009, 09:49 AM   #97
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Thanks

I did the re-melt jobby.

Firstly because I used a Gas type soldering torch, I got abit of solder and played with the distance to melt that solder. As you say its F...in hot at the end of the flame.

Re-melting as many joints as I could on all the chips and connections etc. such as CPU, DVD and whatever on both sides of the board.

!!! IF anyone uses one of these torches the min. distance should be 50/60mm from the surface and keep it moving. If you don't, up in smoke your board or chip etc will go. !!!

As Night_Shift suggested, if I had to do it again I would get a proper hot air blower, as once or twice I nearly over did it.


I've tried to enter the Bios with F2 and F10, but nothing only the message as above with NVIDIA.
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Old 12-17-2009, 12:11 PM   #98
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So what you are saying; post screen appears with the option to F2 set up but you cant access bios, then windows loads but with the error message as above. I take it your desktop does not load.
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Old 12-17-2009, 11:16 PM   #99
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When it starts,

Acer Logo, then Black screen with the NVIDIA Message and it keeps looping through that message. Nothing else.

I've tried entering the Bios by hitting the buttons as soon as the lappy starts as you do with a Desk top PC. Nothing, just goes into the NVIDIA loop.
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Old 12-17-2009, 11:45 PM   #100
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Ooooops,

Found the Keyboard ribbon not fitted correctly, I had a hell of a job getting the ribbon into its socket.

Booted into Bios, disabled Network Boot.

Checked order of boot, Hdd, DVD and so on with Networking moved to the bottom of the list.

But still nothing, as its a new Hdd due to old one defunc, DVD runs with Vista CD in it and can hear DVD running. The cursor flashing in corner of screen and networking led flashing. But nothing appears.

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