ivorytickler

wow, hi all (from downunda) ... this thread poppin' up after a quick search is great, not that we've the same problem but the briggs model # is a start.
we've a greenfield 34" cut, ride on (recently renamed the antichrist), powered by a briggs 17hp intek 406777, type 0138E1, code 000714YH.
It's an E2000 (evolution) Mk11 A, v twin, OHV, blah blah, yadda yadda has been a great workhorse until some very caring person overfilled the gas tank and it caught fire. Sounding like the familiar story of a mates hard tail harley !! No cover on the solenoid didn't help.
So, we've re-wired. Then discovered no spark on the r.h. plug. other plug tested ok with a nice healthy arc. Tested the magneto/coil (think they call this a "magnetron" up your way) at the local mower center and declined an offer of a new one for AUS$120. Found a used one at the ride on wreckers (recommended), threw it on and discovered no spark at all
We're in search of a service manual with not much success, mower mechanic wants $45 an hour plus travel time and am quickly discovering my memory ain't what it used to be. Also have a newish battery which is fully charged.
Experience with older m/cycles tells me to ask questions first before trying to find the heaviest hammer in the workshop.

1. anyone know the right set up for ignition timing on this model? or can you point me to a FAQ page/ spec sheet ?
2. setting up the gap on the flywheel also looks to be pretty ordinary, any pointers?

cheers ...

octaneman

Hi ivorytickler


When you are referring to the magneto/coil are you referring to the stator ? or the ignition coil ? There is a difference between the two. After you have replaced the component in question have you lost spark on both plugs? or just the one on the R/H like before?


Heres a link for parts of your engine : http://www.partstree.com/parts/

please post the name or number of the component you replaced.

ivorytickler

aye o'man, ta for the reply :)
part # 691060 direct from his holiness, our local mowerbloke. he had the hard copy briggs parts manual and it checks out with your link AOK. (good link for the big picture tho', very much like alpha sports for suzie atv stuff ... TA)
briggs calls it a magnetron, most mowermen call them a coil (incorrect), we call it a magneto having played with a few nortons, bsa's, nsu's, a '42 wla AND a lowly two stroke bridgestone 350 (chrome sliders in the carbies!) in our day.
So: have hijacked an online copy of the manual 'n i think we're almost onto it <b>i think</b>.
looks like the diodes are missing completely to start with :( we didn't touch this part of the wiring at all so go figure that one. PLUS our multimeter has gone walkabout so we're waiting on a mate to swing by with a spare. from my logics the motor should still run and stop without these units in place but maybe thats the problem right there?
engine runs with stop switch wire/s disconnected on both magnetos.
connect them up and no spark at all to both which leads one to believe there is a short or faulty earth down the line somewhere OR IT"S THE DIODES.
one thing i did notice is that the replacement second hand magnetron has plenty of kick whereas the original is pretty poor (it's visible) . did a further test with the motor running and removed H.T lead caps in sequence. motor died after removal of the replacement one, motor did not die when we removed the caps on the older magnetron.
might run the multimeter over these as well if i can find out what i'm testing for.
my autosparky days weren't the best on a good day, 25 years back. so would appreciate anything you can throw at us, meanwhile i'll keep reading the service manual which by the way is fine on the ether but forget printing a hardcopy unless you own a paper mill. cheers.

octaneman

Magnetos rarely give out so I'm wondering if you isolated the coil when you did your tests. Testing the coil is easy, connect the meter to the high tension lead and ground, the meter should read from 2.5k to 5k ohms if it reads infinity then scrap the coil. The grounding wire from the coil has to be disconnected and not to be touching anywhere where it can be grounded, the air gap has to be set to specs also , if not, this can fool you into a no spark condition when you attempt to start the engine. The engine also has to spin at a relatively high rpm in order to produce the spark, spinning it by hand will produce nothing. Also it would be a good idea to check the flywheel key, if the key is sheared off and the flywheel has moved by even a millimeter the engine will never run.


The pdf file will show you how to test the stop switch, it may not be the same as the one you got but it will give you a general idea what to look for.

post back your findings

Attached Files

magnetron_retro-fit.pdf (440.8 KB, 6 views)

ivorytickler

thanx again o'man, update on our progress, (we've been up north chasing dropbears)
stop switch/ diodes test aok. both cyclinders have spark. all wiring checked at least three times.
but the &*()*^&%^ thing still won't turn off with the key !
so we're picking up another runner magneto (working and tested) for the other cylinder today, maybe the heat from the fire has done something weird somehow.
note: we've been reduced to 20th century trial and error fixit methodology in the 21st century.
go figure

mstpops

RE B/S PROBLEMS
it almost sounds like both the diodes are (OPEN) cannot make ground

check the main switch and your connections to it might be a 6 terminal
A = REGULATOR / RECTIFIER , B = BAT, M = MAGNETRON KILL TAB, L = LIGHTS/ CARB SOLENOID , S= STARTER SOLENOID TAB G = GROUND

try running a temp wire from each kill tab wire on eack magnetron and them ground both out at the same time and note what happens if it stops and both magnetrons were firing they are indeed open - then replace DIODES

Cheers mst pops