shazbot

No spark, even in the dark...
trying to get this old beast running for my mom.. hasn't ran in a couple years now..





I've cleaned the coils, magnets, and points.. (spaced with a matchbook) apparently, the magnets are still good... and it's definitely not the plug.. points open/close fine...

no luck at all so far.. any ideas?

octaneman

Hi Shazbot

Adjusting the points is critical, a slight variation in dwell angle will make all the difference. The capacitor has to be tested the coil as well if it's open or shorted. Do a continuity test on wires. Since it's been sitting for a while, add a few drops of oil in the cylinder to build higher compression.

k2skier

The points will need replacing, cleaning doesn't work well unless you can polish them with crocus cloth or 1,000 grit, then clean thoroughly (like a doctors office clean) with 100% alcohol or I sometime use starter fluid. Condensers and coils rarely go bad, but with B&S you get the condenser with the points.

Best thing to do is install a magnetron electronic ignition coil and never mess with points again, part # 397358.

Make sure your flywheel key isn't sheared, even a few thousandths will kill your spark, point gap is .020

shazbot

Thanks guys. I had no idea the points were so picky... I just used some 320grit(couldn't find any 1000.. I also rubbed them together hard for a while..) and used some rubbing alcohol w/ a q-tip on them.. nice blue spark now.

I probably shouldn't have "cleaned" all the contacts with gasoline the first time...(doh)

Hopefully that'll be enough to get it running..
will check in a couple hours.. 5:30 am here.. neighbors probably wouldn't be too happy...

shazbot

Well, it started on the first pull, after some fresh gas in the carb... runs fine I suppose... except, it's smoking like Crazy... like, have to wear a gas mask to till type crazy...

Any ideas there?

k2skier

I see your problem now, you've got a hammer stuck to the flywheel

If I have to use 320-400 sand paper, I use the same area on the paper to wear it down. If you file or sand too hard you remove the hardness coating which is only a couple of thou thick and the points will burn very quickly.

I use printer paper with alcohol on it to wipe the points, a fiber from the Q-tip or the oils on your fingers will make points not work.

octaneman

My guess is after sitting for a few years the valve seals have dried out, i'd try adding some conditioner in the crankcase maybe it will solve the problem.

k2skier

Attention! No additives are recommended for air cooled engines!

B&S L head, side valve engines, do not have valve seals. The smoking is most like due to worn out rings.

Warm and change oil twice, with running and warming between changes, with STRAIGHT 30W only.

octaneman

K2skier

Thanks for the info.

k2skier

Your welcome, some additives can cause problems in hotter running air cooled engines, B&S strictly says no. All the additives are made for use in cooler running water cooled engines.

IMO, if it still smokes bad, after 2 oil changes, try a little (2 oz) of marvel mystery for a short time idling and then use 3-4 oz MAX of STP to thicken it up, those are the only 2 things I have tried and gotten away with.

shazbot

well thanks guys, .. I found it wouldn't start Again... tore it apart to the points yet again.. when taking the flywheel off something fell on the ground... turns out it sheared the flywheel key in half...

being the cheap ba@##$@& that I am, I busted out the grinder and sacrificed a screw driver and made a "key"..
it started awesome, (didn't have to pour and gas in the carb...)
but, the timing seems to be off..

went with my grandparents to an auction yesterday.. and we ended up just bringing his tiller over and doing the gardens.. so, all is good I suppose..

I tried. . .

Basementgeek

Never use a steel keyway on a flywheel. Buy a new keyway and it will probably help your timing problem.

BG