namyenruoj

Hello,

I recently bought this Viper 5901 for my 1998 Toyota Rav4. I installed most of it myself. arming and disarming works. I also added 3 actuators for the 2 doors plus the back.The doors lock and unlock, arming and disarming respectively
the problem that i got right now:
-i don't know how to install the starter kill
-i don't know where and what wire is my starter from under the dash
-i don't know how to make this remote start to work

I hope somebody can give me pictures or diagram on what to do. Is this type of model will give you interior light for few seconds upon disarming the unit?.
-any help would be appreciated

jaggerwild

The remote starter kill wires will go in-line with the factory starter wire, it will be in the ignition harness just behind the key assembly. Using a test light (that doesn't feed back ground) look for a heavy guage wire(bigger than most, but not always). Get to where you can access the harness with ease then after inserting the test light in the first wire, crank the starter over(just a bump/real quick). Continue this process till you find the wire that only shows "power/positive" during "starter crank" but not any other time(example when the ignition is on but the car is not running). Once you find this wire using a pair of side cutters, cut the wire (don't cut it to close to a harness) as if you need to re-connect it you'll be up a creek.
Side NOTE: some newer autos have more than one wire that shows power during crank, I think you shouldn't have this problem.
LEE should chime in soon (if he's not raising hell over the holiday) to give the the wire codes to look for (like starter wire is white with a red strip, constant is solid red, etc) so wait till he does so..
Usually to access the ignition harness I will drop the finish panel on the drivers side of the lower dash board (usually it is only a few screws, some may be hidden on you). On the alarm side of the starter disable, it should have two wires that go to the dash board starter wire. One will be for the "hot" while cranking(cause if the wire is now cut only one will show power under cranking condition). The other wire from the remote start will go toward the other side of the cut wire, under the dashboard(we call it the starter side) easy to see why cause if you put power to the now cut wire that is away from the ignition/cold during crank it will try to start the truck.
For the delayed doom light, once you get the wire specs/color using a test light you can look in the driver left side kick panel. This is the finish panel to the left of the brake pedal where the upholstery meets the rug. This wire will show either ground or power while the doom light is on, it may also show the opposite when the doom light is NOT on.
It has been a while for me to do the doom light delay so I'll leave it up to LEE to further help you, feel free to ask more questions as I'm sure there may be more info that you will need. If you are confused re-read what I have written, a few times slowly this may better help you to understand the book of info I have given you.

PS: Here is a link to an install to gie you the general ideal of where and what to look for, though it is not the same as your truck. It does show the HUSH panel removal, and the left side kick panel removal as well.

http://www.autotoys.com/New_Tech/DIY_98/ph42/ph42.htm

namyenruoj

thanks. I think I will wait for Lee to come. Do you need some kind of starter relay and where can i find the diagram to hook it up with my Viper 5901

jaggerwild

No relay needed if the unit has TWO wires coming from it (this would indicate the relay is built in) witch is usually the case with viper systems. I don't have a schematic but, what I would do is this.
Once the wire is cut (the truck will not start), I then put my butt connectors on the alarm unit wires and crimp them. Then I'll put the other end of the butt connectors over the starter wires, and test the alarm to see if they are correctly hooked up. If it is not hooked the right way the truck will not start(no matter if its armed or not), I then swap the connection and re-test the alarm(the truck will only start when the unit is disarmed).

jaggerwild

No relay needed if the unit has TWO wires coming from it (this would indicate the relay is built in) witch is usually the case with viper systems. I don't have a schematic but, what I would do is this.
Once the wire is cut (the truck will not start), I then put my butt connectors on the alarm unit wires and crimp them. Then I'll put the other end of the butt connectors over the starter wires, and test the alarm to see if they are correctly hooked up. If it is not hooked the right way the truck will not start(no matter if its armed or not), I then swap the connection and re-test the alarm(the truck will only start when the unit is disarmed).

If you only have one wire from the alarm for the starter kill then yes you must use a relay, I'll link you to a starter kill relay picutre. Only use the "normally closed" relay diagram, and you will not need the resistor they show across two of the terminals.

http://www.the12volt.com/relays/page2.asp#sk1

Also a link for illuminated entry for ya, not sure witch is yours but on older toys it was a negative trigger.

http://www.the12volt.com/relays/page4.asp#ien

lcurle

Constant 12V+ White Fuse Panel
Starter Red (Automatic) or Black/Gray Dots Ignition Switch Harness
Ignition Black/White Ignition Switch Harness (Small Wire)
Ignition 2 Blue/Yellow Ignition Switch Harness (Small Wire)
Accessory Blue/Red Ignition Switch Harness (Small Wire)
Tach Black Coil
Brake Switch Green/White Driver's Side Kick Panel
Trunk Pin Red/White (-) Orange Connector above Fuses
Parking Lights Green (+) Gray Connector near Relay left under Dash
Head Lamp Red/White Steering Column
Door Trigger Red/Yellow (-)F Red/White (R) Orange Connector above Fuses
Door Lock Blue/White (-) Driver's Kick Blue Connector Negative Trigger
Door Unlock Blue/Yellow (-) Also Blue/Red (-)
Horn Wire Green/Red Steering Column
Windows Up LF=Yellow, RF=Blue/White, LR=Blue/Red, RR=Red/Yellow
Windows Down LF=Green, RF=Green/Red, LR=Blue/Black, RR=Red/Blue (kick panel)

jaggerwild

Thank you MR. Lee!
By the way Happy Memorial day to you and all!!!!!(Hat off covering heart to remember our fallin HERO'S) God BLess America.

namyenruoj

Thank you guys "jaggerwild" and specially Mr. Lee. according to the wiring color. The starter wire which is red. is that for automatic engine. my 1998 rav4 is manual and i also notice unerd the steering i don't see any heavy gauge wire. what coud it be the problem for this Viper 5901 if you disarm the unit it will chirp 4 times and then my LED will blink 3 times then pause for 2 seconds then blink 2 times then it repeats. i turn on the engine so many times to erase the memory but it still blinks. how do i get rid of this.
Thank you guys again.

jaggerwild

The chirps and flashes tell you the alarm went off and how it did so IE " drivers door was opened" its in the owners manual in my signature! Yes starter wire is red or black with gray dots AGAIN find it and cut it then you will know if you have the right one by trying to start it after cutting. The starter wire you are looking 4 is coming out of the ignition (behind it) if you reread my OP I stated it may not be heavy guage.

You did not tell use it was a manual , it is up to you!!!

***Make sure the parking brake is always used*** if you forget and leave it in gear the results will be devastating..........

You could use the hood pin and wire trip from the alarm, put it under the E-brake so it must be depressed to let the unit start other whys it will not, I strongly suggest doing so.

lcurle

You can also customize a voice box that says" Is your parking brake on?" when you arm your car ;)

namyenruoj

how can you do that Mr Lee.You can actually make your car "TALK". What do I need. By the way I am thinking of doing my remote start tomorrow or sometime this week but I am still confuse about this Heavy gauge remote start, (H3) 10-pin wiring harness. I have no idea how to hook them up from my 1998 Rav4 wiring. Please I need some help I would like to find out see if I can do this myself. How can you make this system when you disarm the unit interior light will stay on for few second. thanks guys for all the help

lcurle

You will use something called "T-Taps" when "taping" into your vehicle for the alarm. Get a pin point test light, it will save your butt. Just follow the wire diagram above and you will be fine, if you run into problems come back here.

namyenruoj

thanks guys,
for all the information. I did manage to install my viper 5901 as much as i can for my 1998 toyota Rav4, 2 door manual transmission. The only problem that I have right now is I can not do the remote start. The wiring diagram from H3 harness. where do you connect the pink/white flex relay and pink/black flex relay contact 87a to the car wiring harness. I remember I don't have anything connected from the ignition 2 (black/white).
also from H1 harness do you have to hook up the white/blue remote start activation and where? this is the last thing I have to make the remote start. almost anything works.

-arm and disarm, 1-chirp and 2 chirps respectively
-lock and unlock upon arming and disarming
-park light flashes
-interior dome light turns on for 30 secondsafter disarming
-----------------------------------------------------------------

-remote start not complete with 7 chirps?

any suggestion would be appreciated
___________________________________________

jaggerwild

IF you have an alarm and remote start then you do not need the blue with a white witch is a turn on remote start wire, in other words if that wire see's a ground signal it will start the auto.
SO the H-wire are from a relay you are using to hook up starter kill right? I'll post a picture hang on BRB....

http://www.the12volt.com/relays/page2.asp

That page has a starter kill relay diagram on it, the rav starter wire will go to polls 87a and 30 this is the wire you cut to create starter kill. Use the top diagram normally closed starter kill relay.

namyenruoj

thanks jaggerwild.
my starter kill works. if the alarm goes off you can not start the car. i don't need any other relay to make that work i use the onboard relay from the unit (brain). my question is the pink/white and the pink/black from the heavy gauge wire where do i hook these wire up. thanks

jaggerwild

What does the manual say they are for? Not all wires will be used(from the alarm/starter) depending on, like the alarm is either a positive trigger or negative trigger (so you will have one extra there). Also dome light supervision is the same, one will be a hood pin trigger.

It has been a while for me doing an install but pretty sure pink with white trace is not used, again it has been a while. Sometimes you will not need the extra ignition wires they supply with it, only way to tell is make sure the A/C unit engages while it is remote started. Make sure you hear the pump engage.

namyenruoj

still does not work, i hooked up the pink/white to my ignition 2 wire which is black/white from the ignition harness. how come if i remote start the car i don't have some kind of voltage across the pink/white nor pink/black. is that the wire that will supply power to ignition so it can start the car. i still get this 7 clicks from the unit and it says remote start error on my fob. please i need some help it bothers me now

lcurle

Starter Red (Automatic) or Black/Gray Dots Ignition Switch Harness

jaggerwild

OK,
Instead of telling me pink with a white(witch means nothing to me) tell me what the manual says the wire is for? IF its for an extra or second ignition then IT may need a relay to invert the signal(from ground to positive), bare in mind not all second ignitions are used.

So on the install manual what does it say these two wires are for? Pink with a white and pink with a black?
Also have you done the tach signal learn so the car knows what to look for when it tries to start? What exactly is not working? Does your car have a factory built in ignition kill? It may need to be fooled into thinking it is working ok then.

First things first, forget the chirps for now as if we get it working right that may clear up too, so when you try to start it what happens? Does it start then shut off, or does not start at all, does it click but then nothing? If it tries to start but then dies, try this(put the key in the ignition, only put it in DO NOT TURN IT) see if it will continue to run with the key sitting in the iggy.

lcurle

feed the little birds so they stop chirping so much....