carsey

If the subs are 750WRMS each and the ampo can only give a maximum of 1000WRMS at 1 ohm, then that is no where near powerful enough.

Running it at almost max gain, 75%+ would definately be causing it problems.

Im taking this is your sub spec sheet:

http://www.directed.com/guides/manua...io_Speaker.pdf

So, if that is, you sub is only giving 400WRMS which would appear to be at 4 ohms?

I never really understood ohms, so could someone please clarify.

So im guessing you will need to wire your amp so it 'sees' a 2 ohm load and can give 750WRMS power to the subs.

jaggerwild

Yeah he's running the AMP @one OHM what the speakers are, is the next question(DVC/SVC). But the correct way is using one positive terminal and the other negative terminal.
Try running one woofer(hooked the same way it is) see if this works OK with no troubles, if so then you have yer answer(OHMS problem) if it continues then it is something else. I'd also suggest soldering the terminal connections(on the speakers) eliminate that as a problem as well.

lcurle

dude your running 8 gauge.......that needs to be upgraded, to at least 4.

jaggerwild

WOW can you tell it has been a while for me installing? Also my old boss would just give me the stuff and say make it work.........

shesmackshard

would the gauge wiring really cause a problem like this? i find it sketchy that no one else picked up on a gauge problem so.

Alright, I hope you guys were smarter than me when looking at that picture of the wiring. Im a friggin retard when i described it.

Basically the + from each sub is going to a positive amp terminal, and the same for the negative. would it be a problem at all that the positive from each sub go into the same pos terminal rather than seperate? (same for neg)

yeah thats my subs specs. the 23124 model, so does this officially mean that its likely that the installers were retards when wiring (they had the specs for the amp and subs available in the boxes they came in).

shesmackshard

my subs are SVC

so:
http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/ca/...2-ohm_mono.jpg

this? this is most definitely how they dont have them wired. just looking at all the diagrams for wiring on crutchfield convinces me that the pproblem is more than likely ohm load.

lcurle

Bridged Wiring

Parallel Wiring

Series Wiring

shesmackshard

okay, then mines at the second lone. Parallel wiring. So if I understand that right, this might shoot down the ohm theory?

This sucks. i hate problems :p

shesmackshard

What. The. Hell!??

heres the deal. On the box my subs came in, it says 750 peak watts, 500 rms. Model number (this is key) 3124.

On the paper that was inside both boxes, it says 600 peak watts, and 450 rms. model number 23124.

Model numbers dont match, and watts dont match. I dont known what the balls I have!!1 if I have 600 peak watts 450rms, with it wired parallel, is that the problem???

lcurle

are they dual voice coil? Are they wired up dual voice coil? If they are wired wrong you can get down to 1 ohm on the amp wich would send it into protect mode instantly.

shesmackshard

Please guys i dont have a lot of time before my appointment at the shop. I really do appreciate the help, but please read my posts.

I said my subs are SVC. And its not going into protection mode instantly. only after about 10 minutes. Etc.

lcurle

turn your gain down to about 25% and zero out the bass or subwoofer level on your head unit and see if it cuts out. If you are trying to push too much the amp will over work itself. Over time it will start to burn up

shesmackshard

i'll try it just to attempt to isolate the problem, but i repeat _Again_ its not hot to the touch. At all. So I seriously refuse to think its overheating, if it is, then this amp is seriously a big wimp. Its barely warm.

also, i asked if the overpowering of the subs was an issue, is it?

thanks

lcurle

I can tell you the amp is a big pile of rhino pee, but that is just my opinion. Is it CEA certified? If not, then they can say it is 1000000000000000 watts when in reality it is only 5.

carsey

you could have a 10,000Watt amp and it only be pumping out 250WRMS.

RMS is the value you need to look for as all manufacturers have to state this. They can give it any amount of watts they want.

shesmackshard

Okay thank you a lot for clarifying Carsey.

So, I guess my only hope is a full inspection by the installer, because all my troubleshooting with the amp and some wiring isnt working. so, keeping my hopes up. please continue any other theories/troubleshooting if you have any.

thanks for all the help thus far, once again.

shesmackshard

could the gauge wiring lead to this problem? again, im runnging 8 gauge, which my amp's installation guide says would work (minimum of 8 gauge).

Also, Ive noticed that duration is not the key. its definitely volume... it will cut out a point no where near where I typically played it. I had it at least half way, it will cut before that (in between 25% and 50% volume, depending on the song's bass).

ideas? gain is at 75% with subwoofer volume on the HU about 75%... which is no where near as loud as the way it was before the problem (100% gain with headunit at minimum 75% subwoofer volume, depending on song).

figured i should repeat, its not hot to the touch at all.

carsey

Gain is definately the problem.

As suggested, turn it back to a LOW setting and work from there. I really cant imagine what that much gain is going to sound like. From my experience, too much can sound ALOT worse than the right amount.

jaggerwild

Minimum means "at the very least 8 Guage", but should be bigger(in my car it would/customers no). A lot gets lost in translation, there is also a lot that is assumed. Were trying to help........

If the amp is under powered and then you cranked it up, this WOULD NOT CAUSE A HEAT problem before the amp would show signs of a problem. Under powering(or starving) also causes permanent damage to electronics where heat takes longer usually to do damage. Same law holds true for computers, "the power supply is the Heart of a build" (so don't use cheap pace makers )

As for the gains, a good quality head unit will push distortion out @ or before 75% volume, add the gains turned up distortion to this equation.
SO even if the AMP gets replaced (and I hope it does) if the guage of wire feeding power to the amp is not made bigger then the same thing will happen over and over again.

lcurle

Riddle me this, do your headlights dim when your stereo is cranked up for the few short seconds before it cuts out? If you have a remote for your cd player lets try something. Put a volt meter on your battery and kind of face it towards you so you can still use the remote with the head unit. Start to turn the head unit's volume up and watch the battery voltage drop, once it hits a certain level (10 volts) it starts to shut down.

Now lets test your alternater, while the vehicle is running, disconnect the negative battery terminal, if the car dies the alternator is crapping out. Do you have a capacitor inline with your stereo?