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| Automotive Support Fixing your Automobile...from Minis to Semis! |
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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 3
OS: win2000
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Probe problems
I have a 96 probe gt 2.5 won't start. I have spark fuel, and its in time. Compression is 150 psi, I think it may be the computer, any help will be greatly appreciated.....
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#2 (permalink) |
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Mentor Home Support, Gearhead Automotive Center
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 549
OS: WINXP
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Re: Probe problems
Hi ezirk
Re-check the spark , make sure its a strong bluish color going into ALL cylinders not just one. Since you already have spark / fuel, it is not the computer that is faulty, check your spark plugs for deposits or contamination. Go through the basic tune up inspection, spark plugs, fuel, filter, air filter, wires, etc.. Take out the engine codes ( if present) and please post them, re-charge the battery to full capacity. Ford ignition problems are inherent in colder temperatures, if the engine doesn't start within the first 2 or 3 cranks , the engine will flood very quickly and the spark plugs will have to be dried out or replaced. post back your findings. Last edited by octaneman; 11-06-2009 at 07:41 AM. |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 3
OS: win2000
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Re: Probe problems
Hi octaneman
Bought new plugs and charged the batt. I checked the codes 2 came up, 100 Mass Airflow & 110 Inlet Air Temp. I checked the MAF sensor with a multimeter the voltage read as stated in my book. I cannot find the IAT sensor. You were right about the flooding problem after installing new plugs still won't start, I took the plugs out and the were wet with fuel. I disconnected the injector harness and dried the plugs out, sprayed small amount of either into intake still would not hit on any cylinder. My problem has several people boggled, they say if there is fire and fuel it should start. I'm thinking of taking it to a shop so they can put there computer on it, but don't want to run a huge bill up. I bought the car for $300.00, the problem. Thanks for your help... ezirk |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Mentor Home Support, Gearhead Automotive Center
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 549
OS: WINXP
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Re: Probe problems
ezrik
The air temperature sensor should be located on the air cleaner assembly, or the air duct, it is a plug with a 2 prong connector. It regulates exhaust gas recirculation temperature. To test the temperature sensor, take your meter and connect it to the sensor leeds, the readings should be somewhere in the vicinity of 1.7k ohms ( check the specs for your car). Take a hair drier and set it to the hottest setting , with your meter connected to the sensor, apply the heat and the resistance should drop 500 ohms ( give or take). If it doesn't then the sensor is faulty. To test the mass air flow, you will need to connect a 5v power source and connect your meter to the ground and signal pin. Once it is connected, you manually blow air in it and see the voltage readings on the sensor change. The rate at it which it changes is the frequency, this is what your meter should read. This is how it is tested off the car. post back your findings. Last edited by octaneman; 11-08-2009 at 05:01 PM. |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Mentor Home Support, Gearhead Automotive Center
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 549
OS: WINXP
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Re: Probe problems
ezirk
You said on your last post that you tested both sensors, my question to you is: How did you test the mass air flow sensor ? I do not know what book you are using as a reference,mass air flow sensors have to be tested on the bench. Taking voltage readings off the pins while the ignition is on is not enough. The air flow sensor has to be tested manually off the car and then you have to blow air through it and look for a response on the meter. The codes you posted ; 100 and 110 are clear that one of those sensors is not working properly or the engine has a serious vacuum leak. When diagnosing engine codes, you start off with the highest number first, in this case it's code 110 which is the IAT. If the IAT passes the test I mentioned in my previous post, then you will have to look for a vacuum leak from the intake manifold or the EGR may be stuck open. Open the radiator cap and make sure no compression blow-by goes through the radiator. One thing you can do is disconnect the battery to erase all the codes from the computer.Then dry off the spark plugs if the engine has flooded, check all vacuum hoses (specially the MAP sensor) and the intake tube to see if they are connected to the air box properly.Check for blocked vacuum lines under the air box or if they were blocked with bolts and they are cracked or dried out. Do not use any starting fluid because it dries out the cylinders and it lowers its compression ratio. Re-start the engine by putting the gas pedal to the floor, if it doesn't start within the first 3 to 4 cranks..STOP and do not attempt a restart. Re-check the computer for any codes and if present please post them, and we'll take it from there. Please post your readings from the sensors when you do the tests with your meter. post back your findings. Last edited by octaneman; 11-10-2009 at 04:43 PM. |
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