95 Probe GT

95probe · 06-07-2009, 01:16 AM

Can anyone help with my Probe?
95 gt with mazda 2.5 not getting fire to the plugs.

**octaneman** · 06-07-2009, 09:15 AM

Hi 95probe

The no spark issue can be attributed to several factors, you need to perform some tests to verify. First, you need to check to see if you are getting fuel as well for they usually go hand in hand. You will need to check the CPS wire, that should be located somewhere along the dipstick area, the wire rubs causing a no spark/fuel problem. There should be a a plastic or metal clip holding it, disconnect the plug and take off the 10mm bolt and visually check for open or cut wires.
You will also need to check for the EEC relay and see if you are getting power to it. Since its a 95 it should be an OBD1. It's good idea to take out the the codes, If memory serves, one way to do this is to take a cotter pin and jump pins 10 and ground on the OBD connector and count the CELs.

95probe · 06-07-2009, 05:12 PM

hello octaneman,
I have replaced the cps 3 times. the last one got rubbed, i replaced it and no fire since.I have replaced the module, cap and rotor button with used parts. I have also changed the cpu. Still no fire.

**octaneman** · 06-07-2009, 10:32 PM

Check the distributor and see if the rotor spins, check the timing belt for it may have jumped a tooth. I do recall the 95's had a distributor problem but for the life of me I can't recall the nature of it. ( ill get back to you on that ) Have you tested the cps since you had it replaced, it's possible the used part maybe a bad one.

**octaneman** · 06-08-2009, 12:30 PM

I got the information on that distributor problem. It kept nagging at me so I asked around, and here's what I got for you. The distributor is from Mitsubishi which has the pickups and coil incorporated into 1 unit. The unit is poorly engineered so it has a high failure rate, the symptoms include:1) The car shuts down without warning loss of ignition spark 2)Engine starts cold but when hot shuts off and re-starts when cold. 3) engine may not start cold due to intermittent spark.
The whole distributor problem is due to the FORD IMMOBILIZER SYSTEM.

There is a way around this problem.

You need to remove the ignition immobilizer wires from pins 10 & 13 and join them together bypassing the immobilizer system, but you will still need to press the the key fob to start the car.

The immobilizer is behind the panel by the clutch pedal. It is held together by a push pin clip and a screw. ( remove this) you will see something that looks like a cage that is held down by rivets to the floor. You will need to this to the passenger side as well, ( the cage) it may have 2 bolts instead. Take the plug and face towards you with the wires facing you as well, look for 6 wires that are at the top and find pins 10 & 13, cut the wires and join them together.Re-install the immobilizer.

If this sounds complicated , then the best course of action is just replace the complete distributor with the recommended replacement number.

Here is the diagram :

95probe · 06-09-2009, 07:04 PM

sorry it has taken me so long to get back to you.
ok that sounds easy enough, but what is the key fob?

**octaneman** · 06-09-2009, 08:12 PM

key fob (1) A remote control car door opener such as the common 'clicker' used with most modern automobiles.

A key fob is a type of security token: a small hardware device with built-in authentication mechanisms. Just as the keys held on an ordinary real-world key chain or fob control access to the owner's home or car, the mechanisms in the key fob control access to network services and information. The key fob (and similar devices, such as smart cards) provide two-factor authentication: the user has a personal identification number (PIN), which authenticates them as the device's owner; after the user correctly enters their PIN, the device displays a number which allows them to log on to the network. Because a key fob is a physical object, it is easy for the owner to know if it has been stolen. In comparison, a password can be stolen (or guessed) and used for an extended period before -- if ever -- the theft is detected.

95probe · 06-10-2009, 02:21 AM

wow, ok i didnt get a clicker with it

**octaneman** · 06-10-2009, 08:28 AM

Since you don't have a clicker with it, then you will have to check to see if there are any trouble codes stored. Take your time when you are doing this so there are no catastrophic failures.

The first thing to do is locate the diagnostic connector. The connection is located in the front driver side corner under the hood, between the fender and the battery. (picture 1)

After making the connection, turn the key to the ON position (turn the ignition on, but do not start the car). The check engine light will blink out the trouble codes. To interpret the codes, the check engine light will start blinking in pulses. These pulses are 2 types, long pulses and short pulses.

The long pulse - (1.2 seconds) counts off the first digit (or tens position) in code.

The short pulse - (0.4 seconds) counts off the second digit (or ones position) in code

Example: To interpret a code 12 (it's blink....(1.2 seconds) ..blink-blink(0.4 seconds)...........( 4 second interval)....... next code.

There are 2 types of diagnostic connectors another type is a single pin (green casing) located driver's side under hood rearward of strut mount, to be grounded. ( picture2)

Larger, 6-pin (actually, only 3 pins used) green casing, same location, for code signals.

1: Red/Black 12 V
2: Light Green/Black Code Pulse
3: White/Yellow Monitor Lamp

WARNING ! The Red/Black wire is coming directly from the main relay, which in turn is supplied from the battery through a 30A fuse. Leave this connector alone !!!!.

To Clear The Codes:

Codes are stored in KAM, or "Keep Alive Memory" which is powered by the car battery. To clear the KAM, disconnect the battery for at least 5 minutes. A problem with this is that the PCM (Power-train Control Module) will lose what it has "learned" and you may experience drivability problems for 10-15 miles, but no damage should occur.

To help alleviate some of these problems, after resetting your PCM, start the car and let it idle for approximately 10-15 minutes, so that the PCM re-learns the engine's idle characteristics. Also, drive the car 'normally' for approximately 15-20 miles, so the PCM will re-learn your driving habits.

The car should run normally.

TROUBLE CODES:

01 Ignition Diagnostic Monitor (IDM) or Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP)
02 Crankshaft Position Sensor #2 (CKP2)
03 Cylinder Identification (CID) Sensor
04 Crankshaft Position Sensor #1 (CKP1)
05 Knock Sensor (KS)
06 Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS)
08 Volume Air Flow (VAF) or Measure Core Volume Air Flow (MAF) Sensor
09 Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
10 Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor
12 Throttle Position (TP) Sensor
14 Barometric Pressure (BARO) Sensor
15 (Left) Heated Oxygen Sensor (LHO2S) Voltage Always Below 0.55v
16 EGR Valve Position (EVP) Sensor
17 (Left) Heated Oxygen Sensor (LHO2S) Voltage Does Not Change
23 (Right) Heated Oxygen Sensor (RHO2S) Voltage Always Below 0.55v
24 (Right) Heated Oxygen Sensor (RHO2S) Voltage Does Not Change
25 Fuel Pressure Regulator Control (FPRC) Solenoid
26 Canister Purge (CANP) Solenoid
28 EGR Control (EGRC) Solenoid
29 EGR Vent (EGRV) Solenoid
34 Idle Air Control (IAC) Solenoid
41 Variable Resonance Induction System (VRIS) Solenoid #1/High Speed Inlet Air (HSIA) Solenoid
42 Turbocharger Boost Control Solenoid (BOOST)
46 Variable Resonance Induction System (VRIS) Solenoid #2
55 Pulse Shift Generator (PSG)
56 Transmission Oil Temperature (TOT) Sensor
57 Reduce Torque Signal #1 (RTS1) (to PCM)
58 Reduce Torque Signal #2 (RTS2) (to PCM)
59 Torque Reduce/Engine Coolant Temperature Signal (TRS) (from PCM)
60 1-2 Shift Solenoid (SS1)
61 2-3 Shift Solenoid (SS2)
62 3-4 Shift Solenoid (SS3)
63 Torque Converter Clutch Control (TCCC) Solenoid
64 Downshift Solenoid (DSS)
65 Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) Solenoid
66 Line Pressure Solenoid (LPS)
67 Low Cooling Fan (LFAN) Relay
69 Cooling Fan Engine Coolant Temperature (ECTF) Sensor
No Code Pass Code

Let us know your results.

good Luck !

06-07-2009, 01:16 AM	#1 (permalink)
95probe Registered User Join Date: Jun 2009 Posts: 4 OS: vista	95 Probe GT Can anyone help with my Probe? 95 gt with mazda 2.5 not getting fire to the plugs.

06-07-2009, 09:15 AM	#2 (permalink)
octaneman Mentor Home Support, Gearhead Automotive Center Join Date: May 2009 Posts: 551 OS: WINXP	Re: 95 Probe GT Hi 95probe The no spark issue can be attributed to several factors, you need to perform some tests to verify. First, you need to check to see if you are getting fuel as well for they usually go hand in hand. You will need to check the CPS wire, that should be located somewhere along the dipstick area, the wire rubs causing a no spark/fuel problem. There should be a a plastic or metal clip holding it, disconnect the plug and take off the 10mm bolt and visually check for open or cut wires. You will also need to check for the EEC relay and see if you are getting power to it. Since its a 95 it should be an OBD1. It's good idea to take out the the codes, If memory serves, one way to do this is to take a cotter pin and jump pins 10 and ground on the OBD connector and count the CELs.

06-07-2009, 05:12 PM	#3 (permalink)
95probe Registered User Join Date: Jun 2009 Posts: 4 OS: vista	Re: 95 Probe GT hello octaneman, I have replaced the cps 3 times. the last one got rubbed, i replaced it and no fire since.I have replaced the module, cap and rotor button with used parts. I have also changed the cpu. Still no fire.

06-07-2009, 10:32 PM	#4 (permalink)
octaneman Mentor Home Support, Gearhead Automotive Center Join Date: May 2009 Posts: 551 OS: WINXP	Re: 95 Probe GT Check the distributor and see if the rotor spins, check the timing belt for it may have jumped a tooth. I do recall the 95's had a distributor problem but for the life of me I can't recall the nature of it. ( ill get back to you on that ) Have you tested the cps since you had it replaced, it's possible the used part maybe a bad one.

06-09-2009, 07:04 PM	#6 (permalink)
95probe Registered User Join Date: Jun 2009 Posts: 4 OS: vista	Re: 95 Probe GT sorry it has taken me so long to get back to you. ok that sounds easy enough, but what is the key fob?

06-09-2009, 08:12 PM	#7 (permalink)
octaneman Mentor Home Support, Gearhead Automotive Center Join Date: May 2009 Posts: 551 OS: WINXP	Re: 95 Probe GT key fob (1) A remote control car door opener such as the common 'clicker' used with most modern automobiles. A key fob is a type of security token: a small hardware device with built-in authentication mechanisms. Just as the keys held on an ordinary real-world key chain or fob control access to the owner's home or car, the mechanisms in the key fob control access to network services and information. The key fob (and similar devices, such as smart cards) provide two-factor authentication: the user has a personal identification number (PIN), which authenticates them as the device's owner; after the user correctly enters their PIN, the device displays a number which allows them to log on to the network. Because a key fob is a physical object, it is easy for the owner to know if it has been stolen. In comparison, a password can be stolen (or guessed) and used for an extended period before -- if ever -- the theft is detected. Last edited by octaneman; 06-09-2009 at 08:14 PM.

06-10-2009, 02:21 AM	#8 (permalink)
95probe Registered User Join Date: Jun 2009 Posts: 4 OS: vista	Re: 95 Probe GT wow, ok i didnt get a clicker with it