1999 5.7 won't start

kevin r · 12-08-2008, 09:04 AM

I just replaced my gaskets from the heads up. Not sure I have the dist. in the correct spot anymore? In 1 position the engine turns over 1/2 way and stops. Like it fighting to turn over. Rotating 180 it turns over great but won't fire. Not sure what to do know? Thanks for any help in this area.

**SABL** · 12-09-2008, 08:49 AM

Hi kevin r,

A little late now, but, when working on the top half of any engine, the mechanic simply marks the spot that the rotor is pointing to and reinstalls the distributor with the rotor pointing to the same spot.

All you have to do now is find Top Dead Center of the #1 cylinder and install the distributor with the rotor pointing in the #1 firing position. With the valve cover off, rotate the engine until the timing mark shows TDC and the rocker arms on #1 cyl are even with each other (neither valve opened) and replace the dist with the rotor in #1 position.

Now that you have attempted to fire up your engine, installing the dist becomes a little trickier. More than likely you will NOT get the dist to drop where you want it to and all you need is a little patience (not talking Guns and Roses,,, but a good song).

Install the dist (after finding TDC on the firing stroke of #1 cyl). We are only interested in getting the dist to fully seat (drop) in any position...makes no difference where the rotor is pointing. The critical issue is getting the dist to drop with the mating surfaces of the dist housing and the intake manifold in complete contact.

If the rotor is pointing to #1 position of the cap you are done...say no more, say no more (Monty Python). See if you can get the old 350 (5.7 L) to fire up.

IF the rotor is pointing to any other position than #1 you will have to bring the oil pump in sync with the dist drive. Lift the dist with one hand while the other hand is lighty holding the rotor and pay attention to the direction the rotor is moving.... do not remove the dist, just lift it enough to disengage the gears on the back of the cam and the dist drive. The rotor WILL rotate!! If the rotor is moving CW ( I think this is your case) when lifting the dist housing, turn the rotor CCW to catch the next tooth on the drive gear and redrop the dist in place. It MUST drop completely in place!! This action is done more by feel than sight.... I'm gonna guess you will be moving the rotor about 1/2 to 3/4 inch... maybe less. Repeat this action until the rotor is in #1 position and the dist has fully dropped into place. This process is easier to do than to explain.

Best of luck,
SABL

kevin r · 12-11-2008, 06:56 PM

Sorry it took so long to get back to you. Thanks SABL I will give that a try tomorrow after work. But I believe my dist. shaft end is shaped like a flat blade screw driver? It only allows me to turn it 180 deg? I read somewhere that i'd use a screw driver to turn the oil pump to accomplish what your talking about? Thanks again I'll let you know how it went.

**SABL** · 12-11-2008, 09:33 PM

That's it..... the oil pump drive. You can use a screwdriver to accomplish the alignment process but I am very accustomed to doing the drag and drop method..... and I don't need a flashlight to try and see the pump. Both methods will work and I suggest you use the method that you will be comfortable with. The main thing is to get the engine working.

Let us know how you are doing with your project.

**SABL** · 12-12-2008, 01:34 PM

Hey Kevin,

I hope you see this B4 proceeding in the event that you attempt the drag and drop method of oil pump sync. It has been many years since I have had to do the procedure and after some thought I realised I was incorrect in my instructions. Move the rotor in the same direction that it turns, when raising the dist, to the next tooth and then drop the dist in place and proceed until at the correct position. I hope I have not been an inconvience in your situation.

**bruiser** · 12-12-2008, 02:07 PM

What kind of vehicle? GM has a 5.7, as does Chrysler.

kevin r · 12-15-2008, 04:39 AM

Thanks Sabl,
I got it to fire up Friday night. I didn't think I'd ever hear it start! Didn't have anytime to fine
tune yet but it was good to see the old Tahoe running again. Thanks again for your help.

**SABL** · 12-15-2008, 06:30 AM

Good to hear, Kevin!!

Stop back any time and best of luck.

**Midnight Tech** · 12-15-2008, 05:26 PM

What did you do to fix it?

kevin r · 12-17-2008, 04:43 AM

Sorry I took so long to reply. I tried the screw driver trick, but found it difficult to land into the slot. I ended up using the dist/rotor to move the oil pump. I would recommend that prodecure.
I originally started this project because of the intake gasket. A long with that problem the Tahoe ran like it had a choke? If I slammed the pedal down the engine wouldn't respond. I mean there was nothing there for a couple of seconds then I could hear it backfire via intake. I wouldn't dare and try to get onto the highway without having a clear lane.
So why I had it down for the intake I noticed the fuel regulator leaking so i replaced that.
Well after replacing the intake & head gaskets, seeing as i had it down that far i replaced those. But i'm still having that stumbling problem. Not sure what to do at this point. Sorry for being so winded.

**SABL** · 12-17-2008, 08:49 AM

Hi Kevin,

Now we need to know the mileage on the engine, it could be a timing chain issue from the symptoms.

A compression test will also need to be done..... maybe not. What did the combustion chambers/valves look like when you had the heads off?? A burned valve or seat is hard to find even if you are looking for that problem. I don't really think it will be the valves unless you are running a Throttle Body carb and the fuel in the intake is being burned off due to a faulty intake valve.

Seeing how you mentioned intake minifold, instead of plenum, I am going to presume you have the TB and not multiport fuel injection. If this IS the case, you might want to start at that point and have the injector/s tested.

Seeing that the issue of stumbling was the main cause for the tear-down, I am not going stress but only mention the possibility of the dist being 1 tooth off.

Nice to know you mastered the drag and drop procedure......way too easy. To tell you the truth, I have never tried the screwdriver. I learned the DandD about 40yrs ago..... don't do it very often any more but you never forget or lose the feel of catching the drive gears 1 tooth at a time.

**SABL** · 12-17-2008, 08:55 AM

OOPS......

Even if you have MPI have the injectors tested and inspect the fuel rails and "O" rings. I will see what I can find in my Master truck manual..... big thick hardback that covers most light trucks.

kevin r · 12-17-2008, 10:07 AM

It has 160,000 on it. It also is a throttle body intake. When I removed the plenum there was carbon all over and the injector body appeared to have been hot a couple of times.(burnt)
This was my 1st tear down thinking the stumbing problem was because of the leaking fuel regulator. But it didn't effect the outcome. As far as the heads go, They looked good.
No carbon at all.

**SABL** · 12-17-2008, 10:41 AM

It sounds like the injector is leaking and causing the flooding issue. I remember years ago when the float/s in carbureted engines (if they were out of 'setting') would cause the engine to really "bark" at you through the carb when you floored it. All you got was a nose dive and lots of back-firing through the air cleaner.

kevin r · 12-17-2008, 11:14 AM

I will pull off the plenum and check it out. I'll let you know what I find. It will be a couple of days before I can get back into it. Thank you for your help!

**SABL** · 12-17-2008, 11:30 AM

Your truck is 2yrs newer than my tech manual.... maybe they have changed things. If you have TBI the injector should be visible after taking off the air cleaner.

I need to get some new books.....

Take your time....I'm in no hurry

kevin r · 01-05-2009, 06:01 AM

Hi SABL
Just wanted to let you know that I'm waiting on my fuel injectors to show up. There was a leaking issue.

**SABL** · 01-05-2009, 12:53 PM

Hey Kevin!!

I hope the new injectors solve the problem...there can be issues when they fail. I remember the time when FI was what everyone dreamed of....

Your reply back to this forum puts you high on the list of responsible people. Without your response, many will be left in the dark. Many peeps will benefit from whatever input you can provide. You may never know how many you have helped just by becoming involved.....I thank you.

kevin r · 01-15-2009, 06:39 AM

Sorry for taking so long. Had a little problem with my injector order. All good now. I installed all of my injectors and the Chevy runs like new.
Thank you for your help! I would still be running in circles if it wasn't for your positive input.

**SABL** · 01-16-2009, 04:09 PM

Hi Kevin

Great to know the "Chezzie" is running

I think the thanks has to go to you for sticking with the project and reporting back to this forum!! Many others might benefit from your experience and your input back to TSF to the solution.

I wish you well and hope you return... this is a nice place to be. If you can pull the top-end of an engine and get it running again, you must know something about autos or you have a fine sense of mechanical aptitude.

Again, thanks for reporting back to TSF!!

SABL

#500 goes to Kevin and auto support

12-08-2008, 09:04 AM	#1 (permalink)
kevin r Registered User Join Date: Dec 2008 Posts: 8 OS: WIN XP	1999 5.7 won't start I just replaced my gaskets from the heads up. Not sure I have the dist. in the correct spot anymore? In 1 position the engine turns over 1/2 way and stops. Like it fighting to turn over. Rotating 180 it turns over great but won't fire. Not sure what to do know? Thanks for any help in this area.

12-09-2008, 08:49 AM	#2 (permalink)
SABL Moderator Relaxation Room Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Galena, Ohio Posts: 1,229 OS: WinXP SP3	Re: 1999 5.7 won't start Hi kevin r, A little late now, but, when working on the top half of any engine, the mechanic simply marks the spot that the rotor is pointing to and reinstalls the distributor with the rotor pointing to the same spot. All you have to do now is find Top Dead Center of the #1 cylinder and install the distributor with the rotor pointing in the #1 firing position. With the valve cover off, rotate the engine until the timing mark shows TDC and the rocker arms on #1 cyl are even with each other (neither valve opened) and replace the dist with the rotor in #1 position. Now that you have attempted to fire up your engine, installing the dist becomes a little trickier. More than likely you will NOT get the dist to drop where you want it to and all you need is a little patience (not talking Guns and Roses,,, but a good song). Install the dist (after finding TDC on the firing stroke of #1 cyl). We are only interested in getting the dist to fully seat (drop) in any position...makes no difference where the rotor is pointing. The critical issue is getting the dist to drop with the mating surfaces of the dist housing and the intake manifold in complete contact. If the rotor is pointing to #1 position of the cap you are done...say no more, say no more (Monty Python). See if you can get the old 350 (5.7 L) to fire up. IF the rotor is pointing to any other position than #1 you will have to bring the oil pump in sync with the dist drive. Lift the dist with one hand while the other hand is lighty holding the rotor and pay attention to the direction the rotor is moving.... do not remove the dist, just lift it enough to disengage the gears on the back of the cam and the dist drive. The rotor WILL rotate!! If the rotor is moving CW ( I think this is your case) when lifting the dist housing, turn the rotor CCW to catch the next tooth on the drive gear and redrop the dist in place. It MUST drop completely in place!! This action is done more by feel than sight.... I'm gonna guess you will be moving the rotor about 1/2 to 3/4 inch... maybe less. Repeat this action until the rotor is in #1 position and the dist has fully dropped into place. This process is easier to do than to explain. Best of luck, SABL

12-11-2008, 06:56 PM	#3 (permalink)
kevin r Registered User Join Date: Dec 2008 Posts: 8 OS: WIN XP	Re: 1999 5.7 won't start Sorry it took so long to get back to you. Thanks SABL I will give that a try tomorrow after work. But I believe my dist. shaft end is shaped like a flat blade screw driver? It only allows me to turn it 180 deg? I read somewhere that i'd use a screw driver to turn the oil pump to accomplish what your talking about? Thanks again I'll let you know how it went.

12-11-2008, 09:33 PM	#4 (permalink)
SABL Moderator Relaxation Room Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Galena, Ohio Posts: 1,229 OS: WinXP SP3	Re: 1999 5.7 won't start That's it..... the oil pump drive. You can use a screwdriver to accomplish the alignment process but I am very accustomed to doing the drag and drop method..... and I don't need a flashlight to try and see the pump. Both methods will work and I suggest you use the method that you will be comfortable with. The main thing is to get the engine working. Let us know how you are doing with your project.

12-12-2008, 01:34 PM	#5 (permalink)
SABL Moderator Relaxation Room Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Galena, Ohio Posts: 1,229 OS: WinXP SP3	Re: 1999 5.7 won't start Hey Kevin, I hope you see this B4 proceeding in the event that you attempt the drag and drop method of oil pump sync. It has been many years since I have had to do the procedure and after some thought I realised I was incorrect in my instructions. Move the rotor in the same direction that it turns, when raising the dist, to the next tooth and then drop the dist in place and proceed until at the correct position. I hope I have not been an inconvience in your situation.

12-12-2008, 02:07 PM	#6 (permalink)
bruiser TSF Enthusiast Join Date: Jul 2005 Posts: 1,973 OS: xp	Re: 1999 5.7 won't start What kind of vehicle? GM has a 5.7, as does Chrysler.

12-15-2008, 04:39 AM	#7 (permalink)
kevin r Registered User Join Date: Dec 2008 Posts: 8 OS: WIN XP	Re: 1999 5.7 won't start Thanks Sabl, I got it to fire up Friday night. I didn't think I'd ever hear it start! Didn't have anytime to fine tune yet but it was good to see the old Tahoe running again. Thanks again for your help.

12-15-2008, 06:30 AM	#8 (permalink)
SABL Moderator Relaxation Room Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Galena, Ohio Posts: 1,229 OS: WinXP SP3	Re: [SOLVED] 1999 5.7 won't start Good to hear, Kevin!! Stop back any time and best of luck.

12-15-2008, 05:26 PM	#9 (permalink)
Midnight Tech Admin/Head GreaseMonkey/Igor's alter ego/Grand Exalted PoohBah Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: SC Posts: 2,920 OS: Windows XP Home/Pro SP3/Windows 98SE/Fedora Core 6/RH 7.2 with Autopoint/TAMS II	Re: [SOLVED] 1999 5.7 won't start What did you do to fix it? __________________ Please post all questions in the appropriate forum. Questions sent by email or PM will not be answered. Sharing my life...with my Imzadi! Interested in Trek gaming? Check out the Dynaverse! Proud supporter of the Carolinas Aviation Museum. If we have helped you in any way, please donate to keep TSF up and running!

12-17-2008, 04:43 AM	#10 (permalink)
kevin r Registered User Join Date: Dec 2008 Posts: 8 OS: WIN XP	Re: [SOLVED] 1999 5.7 won't start Sorry I took so long to reply. I tried the screw driver trick, but found it difficult to land into the slot. I ended up using the dist/rotor to move the oil pump. I would recommend that prodecure. I originally started this project because of the intake gasket. A long with that problem the Tahoe ran like it had a choke? If I slammed the pedal down the engine wouldn't respond. I mean there was nothing there for a couple of seconds then I could hear it backfire via intake. I wouldn't dare and try to get onto the highway without having a clear lane. So why I had it down for the intake I noticed the fuel regulator leaking so i replaced that. Well after replacing the intake & head gaskets, seeing as i had it down that far i replaced those. But i'm still having that stumbling problem. Not sure what to do at this point. Sorry for being so winded.

12-17-2008, 08:49 AM	#11 (permalink)
SABL Moderator Relaxation Room Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Galena, Ohio Posts: 1,229 OS: WinXP SP3	Re: 1999 5.7 won't start Hi Kevin, Now we need to know the mileage on the engine, it could be a timing chain issue from the symptoms. A compression test will also need to be done..... maybe not. What did the combustion chambers/valves look like when you had the heads off?? A burned valve or seat is hard to find even if you are looking for that problem. I don't really think it will be the valves unless you are running a Throttle Body carb and the fuel in the intake is being burned off due to a faulty intake valve. Seeing how you mentioned intake minifold, instead of plenum, I am going to presume you have the TB and not multiport fuel injection. If this IS the case, you might want to start at that point and have the injector/s tested. Seeing that the issue of stumbling was the main cause for the tear-down, I am not going stress but only mention the possibility of the dist being 1 tooth off. Nice to know you mastered the drag and drop procedure......way too easy. To tell you the truth, I have never tried the screwdriver. I learned the DandD about 40yrs ago..... don't do it very often any more but you never forget or lose the feel of catching the drive gears 1 tooth at a time.

12-17-2008, 08:55 AM	#12 (permalink)
SABL Moderator Relaxation Room Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Galena, Ohio Posts: 1,229 OS: WinXP SP3	Re: 1999 5.7 won't start OOPS...... Even if you have MPI have the injectors tested and inspect the fuel rails and "O" rings. I will see what I can find in my Master truck manual..... big thick hardback that covers most light trucks.

12-17-2008, 10:07 AM	#13 (permalink)
kevin r Registered User Join Date: Dec 2008 Posts: 8 OS: WIN XP	Re: 1999 5.7 won't start It has 160,000 on it. It also is a throttle body intake. When I removed the plenum there was carbon all over and the injector body appeared to have been hot a couple of times.(burnt) This was my 1st tear down thinking the stumbing problem was because of the leaking fuel regulator. But it didn't effect the outcome. As far as the heads go, They looked good. No carbon at all.

12-17-2008, 10:41 AM	#14 (permalink)
SABL Moderator Relaxation Room Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Galena, Ohio Posts: 1,229 OS: WinXP SP3	Re: 1999 5.7 won't start It sounds like the injector is leaking and causing the flooding issue. I remember years ago when the float/s in carbureted engines (if they were out of 'setting') would cause the engine to really "bark" at you through the carb when you floored it. All you got was a nose dive and lots of back-firing through the air cleaner.

12-17-2008, 11:14 AM	#15 (permalink)
kevin r Registered User Join Date: Dec 2008 Posts: 8 OS: WIN XP	Re: 1999 5.7 won't start I will pull off the plenum and check it out. I'll let you know what I find. It will be a couple of days before I can get back into it. Thank you for your help!

12-17-2008, 11:30 AM	#16 (permalink)
SABL Moderator Relaxation Room Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Galena, Ohio Posts: 1,229 OS: WinXP SP3	Re: 1999 5.7 won't start Your truck is 2yrs newer than my tech manual.... maybe they have changed things. If you have TBI the injector should be visible after taking off the air cleaner. I need to get some new books..... Take your time....I'm in no hurry Last edited by SABL; 12-17-2008 at 11:31 AM.

01-05-2009, 06:01 AM	#17 (permalink)
kevin r Registered User Join Date: Dec 2008 Posts: 8 OS: WIN XP	Re: 1999 5.7 won't start Hi SABL Just wanted to let you know that I'm waiting on my fuel injectors to show up. There was a leaking issue.

01-05-2009, 12:53 PM	#18 (permalink)
SABL Moderator Relaxation Room Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Galena, Ohio Posts: 1,229 OS: WinXP SP3	Re: 1999 5.7 won't start Hey Kevin!! I hope the new injectors solve the problem...there can be issues when they fail. I remember the time when FI was what everyone dreamed of.... Your reply back to this forum puts you high on the list of responsible people. Without your response, many will be left in the dark. Many peeps will benefit from whatever input you can provide. You may never know how many you have helped just by becoming involved.....I thank you.

01-15-2009, 06:39 AM	#19 (permalink)
kevin r Registered User Join Date: Dec 2008 Posts: 8 OS: WIN XP	Re: 1999 5.7 won't start Sorry for taking so long. Had a little problem with my injector order. All good now. I installed all of my injectors and the Chevy runs like new. Thank you for your help! I would still be running in circles if it wasn't for your positive input.

01-16-2009, 04:09 PM	#20 (permalink)
SABL Moderator Relaxation Room Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Galena, Ohio Posts: 1,229 OS: WinXP SP3	Re: 1999 5.7 won't start Hi Kevin Great to know the "Chezzie" is running I think the thanks has to go to you for sticking with the project and reporting back to this forum!! Many others might benefit from your experience and your input back to TSF to the solution. I wish you well and hope you return... this is a nice place to be. If you can pull the top-end of an engine and get it running again, you must know something about autos or you have a fine sense of mechanical aptitude. Again, thanks for reporting back to TSF!! SABL #500 goes to Kevin and auto support