FAQ

I took my Ford Escape to a garage for an oil change. They put an original Chrysler brand, Mopar oil filter on my Ford. Does it really matter or should I go to ask them: Chrysler part on my Ford?

Basementgeek

If it is the correct one, no harm if it is a Chrysler one. If you know the number of the filter, you can check on line to see if it will work on your engine.

BG

FAQ

I can't see any number on the filter. It fits because there is no leak but Chrysler part??? They must get a volume discount or something on those filters!

bruiser

A handful of companies make all oil filters. Chrysler doesn't make any, they have them made for them.

Do a search for "oil filter study". You'll soon find out what's quality and what's not. Here's a surprise: Fram is generally a pos filter.

FAQ

I googled "oil filter study" and found an article interesting. Mopar could be a pos Fram clone? Maybe I should do my own oil change instead. :)

bruiser

You're better off doing your own oil changes. You'll know for sure what kind of oil and filter you're using.

thomasew

I have had so many bad experiences with people changing my oil, such as jiffy lube, and dealerships. This is a critical piece of maintenance, and I don't let other people mess with my car with this. I do it, and I know what weight, brand of filter, etc. has been used. I have found that doing this eliminates stress from my life, and it is really easy to do. Don't let dealers, etc. fool you, anyone can do this, it doesn't require a lot of mechanical ability or knowledge. Google it, and you will find a menu that will tell you how to do it.

Basementgeek

I have to disagree on how easy they are, some are easy, some are hard. My full size Chevy van is pretty easy, my Chevey sedan is not

You might, probably, need to jack up the front of the car which means you will need jack stands for safety. If a vehicle falls on you, when you are under it, you can easily die.

You will need tools to do this. You need an oil filer wrench, possible a cap filter wrench. Also something to catch the waste oil in. You also have a couple of gaskets on hand for the drain plug as well as NEW drain plug. Also will need a wrench for the plug. Don't use an adjustable wrench.

You see that doing your own oil change can easily cost $200.00 for all the tools.

If the car is still under warranty, you will need the paperwork Pro shops give you. If it is not establish, a relationship with a good independent garage. They too will give you paperwork but you maybe able to establish a better relationship with them.

Whilst I can change my own oil, have all the tools and knowledge, I generally pay some one to do it for me. I never use the quick oil change places. I don't trust them at all.

BG

SABL

I, too, have had bad experinces with "oil shops". My vehicles are easy to crawl under and I can forego the support issue. Of course, the running boards on the van force me to make my "entrance" from the front.

There are other things you must do when changing your oil that are often overlooked by the home mechanic:

Check all fluids....including the differential unit and/or transmission if it is a manual tranny.

Lubricate all suspension components....can be tricky to find and requires a grease gun.

Check all filtration elements...... air cleaner or intake filter.... sometimes more than one.

Did you check the brake fluid? Air pressure in the tires? Lubricate the accelerator and tranny linkage?

OK, you got all the bases covered (or most of them). What to do with the used oil? The EPA will frown if you use it for dust control on your driveway or your neighbor's driveway when he isn't looking. Not good for deep frying a turkey or fixing up a mess of fish. You can burn it in the trash pile but is not a good idea to start your charcoal or fireplace with it. Black smoke is a dead give-away and the EPA will be very curious as to it's origination.

Forget the previous paragraph..... you can often return the used oil to the auto parts store for recycling..... the refineries sold it to you once.... why not sell it to you again?

An oil change is a simple procedure but there is more to it than draining and filling and changing the filter. If you don't understand the process or obey the instructions... especially with the filter (must be tightened 3/4 turn after gasket makes contact with the mating surface).... oh yeah, lubricate the gasket with a thin film of clean motor oil.

It is simple and easy but a mistake can cost you an engine..... don't be afraid..... just be informed. Do a complete job or find a reliable auto shop to provide your maintenance needs......watch out for the quickies.

SABL

ebackhus

http://www.autozone.com/R,202863/sto...ductDetail.htm

2-ton jack stand (pair) - 19.99

http://www.autozone.com/R,2427077/st...ductDetail.htm

15-qt oil pan - $9.99

http://www.autozone.com/R,1082620/st...ductDetail.htm

12-ton hydraulic jack - $29.99

Cap wrench (various) - $3.99-5.99

Total? About $60. Not even close to $200. Throw in some of those awesome blue Shop Towels for another $3 or so and you're set. In most cases you don't even need the cap wrench. Since you only need to buy the tools once you aren't really out much. Compare it to the time and cost of having a shop do it and it pays for itself.

I also buy the 1-gal oil bottles to save some scratch and to make recycliing the used oil easier. They range from $13.00 to a bit over $20/gal. Oil filters vary from $3.49 to over $20 for my car. I use a simple FRAM UltraGuard for my car and my girlfriend's car. Since my car uses 4.5qt of oil I still need to buy an extra quart every 2 changes, but I only spend about $20 total for oil and filter.

bruiser

ebackhus, you should get away from the Frams and get a good filter. Check out the oil filter study.

ebackhus

My whole family uses them and we've never had an issue.

I'll check out the study anyway to see what all the hullabaloo is about.