94 chevy s10 4.3 v6 problems - Page 2

gatewaygod · 08-31-2008, 02:26 AM

something to try is the FORD wiggle test used by ford techs yes ford made a diagnostic tool FREE OF CHARGE LOL start it up start wiggling wires pulling pushing twisting, not enough to pull the wires out of the connectors just to see if there is any change in engine performance.

gatewaygod · 08-31-2008, 02:48 AM

what i would suggest is a load test on the vehicle.
leave the vehicle shut off for a good 10 to 15 min

(the battery can still hold a residual charge if the engine was just shut off)

have them do a battery load test (with the engine off) before they do a alternator load test, reason the same as above if the battery checks bad dont rule it out just yet, have them do the alternator test and if its bad i would try just replacing that first and if you still have a problem like hard starting due to low battery voltage etc. then replace the battery.

and YES a bad alternator could be the cause of those proplems.
most of the time when they go bad its the rectifyer bridge.
the part that changes the AC power to DC if the alternator is letting AC through those AC voltage spikes will cause very funky wierd things dealing with the computer.

hope that helps.

autotech zach

my bat doesnt really hold charg would a bad alt cause this?[/quote]

**Midnight Tech** · 09-03-2008, 06:54 PM

For those who saw what was posted by gatewaygod yesterday, he had posted unsupported claims that parts sold at any place other than the dealership are "seconds".
That is odd...I work in a parts store where we sell the exact same parts in many cases that are sold at the dealership and are even on occasion purchased from us by the dealerships. We have sold sensors, modules, coils, etc., that are actually OEM parts that have been purchased by the aftermarket companies and put into their own boxes. Most water pumps are remanufactured by only a couple companies and I've NEVER seen one that was just "cleaned and spraypainted". They are cleaned, disassembled, and reassembled and coated with an anti-rust spray - never painted.

gatewaygod · 09-04-2008, 09:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Midnight Tech

For those who saw what was posted by gatewaygod yesterday, he had posted unsupported claims that parts sold at any place other than the dealership are "seconds".
That is odd...I work in a parts store where we sell the exact same parts in many cases that are sold at the dealership and are even on occasion purchased from us by the dealerships. We have sold sensors, modules, coils, etc., that are actually OEM parts that have been purchased by the aftermarket companies and put into their own boxes. Most water pumps are remanufactured by only a couple companies and I've NEVER seen one that was just "cleaned and spraypainted". They are cleaned, disassembled, and reassembled and coated with an anti-rust spray - never painted.

THEY ARE NOT THE SAME, AND THATS WHY THE "CHEAP AUTO PARTS STORE PARTS LAST SO LONG RIGHT"

YOU KEEP WORKIN AT YOUR PARTS STORE ILL KEEP BEING A TECHNICAN HERE IN THE GARAGE

**FreoHeaveho** · 09-04-2008, 10:09 PM

Gatewaygod, please refrain from "yelling" at members and being rude at TSF. This is a family orientated forum, and as such we value all reasonable opinions. There is no need to devalue other's opinions here, and btw, no swearing.

If you would like to remain a part of this community please do, but do it in a respectful manner.

Co.45 · 09-05-2008, 05:29 AM

I'm Cheap

I've Been Buying Cheap parts for my cheap cars since i been able to fix them Fuel pumps spark plugs cap rotar wires radiators brake pads FPR Nut Kit ALL Cheapest i could find no problems yet.

No Offense though its just like computers some people dont like gateways becasue they had bad experience but its not about the company as a whole its about that one experience! (And in my opinion all pc companies put low end materieals in there towers) I believe what happened to you is possible but it doesnt mean there all bad everywhere i went into a auto pars store and i went to buy a relay and it took me 15 min of arguing to try to convince the store clerk that i wanted the part but she wouldnt sell it to me becasue when she opened it up it looked like someone had used it!
she made me wait another day for a new one to come in!

just like it was said before everyone is entiltled to there opinion
I had bad experience with LG recently sold me a broke choc and now they wont fix it but that doesnt make me think all LG is garbage IM not going to run to return all my plasmas and LCD's becasue i got a 1st gen cell phone that had a bad chrager port!

Anyways thanks for the Advice with the ford test i did a quick version of it yesterday but i need to acutally rip some of these wires down and make sure there connected my first test is the TPS and IAC And i really do think my alt has a big deal in this day time i ride the bat is at 14v then as soon as the engine stalls or is turned off (stalls more than its turned off) the bat drops down to 12 withiin seconds and if i roll any windows down it will got down to 10 or 8 and while i run at night with lights on its at 12 the whole time engine is running?

did have bat tested came out good (i should have rolled windows down before test it wouldnt have passed :)

Im giving this beast one more week of testing then im giving in taking it to the GM dealership directly behind my house they want 84 dollars to diagnose the problem!

ohh and i just recently paited my truck OD Green doing the camo thing is there any topics on such a thing in this forum?

Co.45 · 09-08-2008, 05:26 PM

Quick question? Well knowing me it will be long but i fully intended to make it quick before i started typing!

I just recently redid my winsheild seal. The track was very rusty had to do it and like i said above im cheap so i did it myself went through without a problem outside of scrapping and sanding down all the rust in the track!
cost me 6 dollars for the tube of poly and i had sand paper left over from the paint job i just did!

a tad bit cam trhough in one spot front right passanger side (top right)
so that would explain a little bit of the smell?

but two days ago i figured out that i have been a complete idiot ever since i first got this truck i think im going on 5 weeks now i put in a referbed digital dash console that is great i only paid 60 dollars for and its covered for life!
when i was doing that i pulled my dash around the steering wheel out including the hvac controls ( 94 S10 blazer tahoe lt) when i pulled them out it was really tight i mean i had to pull with alot of force on the vacum lines connecting to it to give me some room to squeeze my hand in there!

anyways after that i put everything back together and it works like a dream (the dash that is) the hvac control knob on the right (chooses ac vent defrost and off) wouldnt slide down into the off position and i assumed i messed it up and thought it was off i just meessed it up well two days ago i got frustrated playing with it and banged it down with alot of force and it went into off and made that noise vacum letting go! so that was cool that i was driving around in my truck for id say 3-4 weeks with the ac that doesnt work in the first place on max ac!

so now im running the same but the truck is letting off this terrible smell almost like burning plastic??

sorta smells like its coming from the underbody but i got under it and smelled everything same with compartment double checked no vac lines or electrical where touching and it seems good but im still smelling that smell ?

only thing i could think of is some of the old sealant from the windsheild fell into that little vent looking thingy right there below the winsheild (on the outside) i know some did but i didnt think it would make that big of a stink??

Any Ideas!! ??

Sorry for it being so long i feel if i include the whole story then your better prepaired to assist.

08-31-2008, 02:26 AM	#21 (permalink)
gatewaygod Registered User Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: ohio Posts: 7 OS: vista :(	Re: 94 chevy s10 4.3 v6 problems something to try is the FORD wiggle test used by ford techs yes ford made a diagnostic tool FREE OF CHARGE LOL start it up start wiggling wires pulling pushing twisting, not enough to pull the wires out of the connectors just to see if there is any change in engine performance. Last edited by Midnight Tech; 09-03-2008 at 06:37 PM. Reason: Removal of unsupported claims against parts manufacturers

08-31-2008, 02:48 AM	#22 (permalink)
gatewaygod Registered User Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: ohio Posts: 7 OS: vista :(	Re: 94 chevy s10 4.3 v6 problems what i would suggest is a load test on the vehicle. leave the vehicle shut off for a good 10 to 15 min (the battery can still hold a residual charge if the engine was just shut off) have them do a battery load test (with the engine off) before they do a alternator load test, reason the same as above if the battery checks bad dont rule it out just yet, have them do the alternator test and if its bad i would try just replacing that first and if you still have a problem like hard starting due to low battery voltage etc. then replace the battery. and YES a bad alternator could be the cause of those proplems. most of the time when they go bad its the rectifyer bridge. the part that changes the AC power to DC if the alternator is letting AC through those AC voltage spikes will cause very funky wierd things dealing with the computer. hope that helps. autotech zach my bat doesnt really hold charg would a bad alt cause this?[/quote]

09-03-2008, 06:54 PM	#23 (permalink)
Midnight Tech Admin/Head GreaseMonkey/Igor's alter ego/Grand Exalted PoohBah Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: SC Posts: 2,901 OS: Windows XP Home/Pro SP3/Windows 98SE/Fedora Core 6/RH 7.2 with Autopoint/TAMS II	Re: 94 chevy s10 4.3 v6 problems For those who saw what was posted by gatewaygod yesterday, he had posted unsupported claims that parts sold at any place other than the dealership are "seconds". That is odd...I work in a parts store where we sell the exact same parts in many cases that are sold at the dealership and are even on occasion purchased from us by the dealerships. We have sold sensors, modules, coils, etc., that are actually OEM parts that have been purchased by the aftermarket companies and put into their own boxes. Most water pumps are remanufactured by only a couple companies and I've NEVER seen one that was just "cleaned and spraypainted". They are cleaned, disassembled, and reassembled and coated with an anti-rust spray - never painted. __________________ Please post all questions in the appropriate forum. Questions sent by email or PM will not be answered. Sharing my life...with my Imzadi! Interested in Trek gaming? Check out the Dynaverse! Proud supporter of the Carolinas Aviation Museum. If we have helped you in any way, please donate to keep TSF up and running!

09-04-2008, 10:09 PM	#25 (permalink)
FreoHeaveho TSF Enthusiast Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Australia Posts: 3,213 OS: Windows Vista Ultimate 64 SP2, Windows XP Professional SP3, Mac OSX Leopard My System	Re: 94 chevy s10 4.3 v6 problems Gatewaygod, please refrain from "yelling" at members and being rude at TSF. This is a family orientated forum, and as such we value all reasonable opinions. There is no need to devalue other's opinions here, and btw, no swearing. If you would like to remain a part of this community please do, but do it in a respectful manner. __________________ PC Wizard-VGA 2009 Charts-Power Supply Info-Multi/Single Rail PSU?-Speedfan-Driver Sweeper

09-05-2008, 05:29 AM	#26 (permalink)
Co.45 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: pa Posts: 16 OS: vista home	Re: 94 chevy s10 4.3 v6 problems I'm Cheap I've Been Buying Cheap parts for my cheap cars since i been able to fix them Fuel pumps spark plugs cap rotar wires radiators brake pads FPR Nut Kit ALL Cheapest i could find no problems yet. No Offense though its just like computers some people dont like gateways becasue they had bad experience but its not about the company as a whole its about that one experience! (And in my opinion all pc companies put low end materieals in there towers) I believe what happened to you is possible but it doesnt mean there all bad everywhere i went into a auto pars store and i went to buy a relay and it took me 15 min of arguing to try to convince the store clerk that i wanted the part but she wouldnt sell it to me becasue when she opened it up it looked like someone had used it! she made me wait another day for a new one to come in! just like it was said before everyone is entiltled to there opinion I had bad experience with LG recently sold me a broke choc and now they wont fix it but that doesnt make me think all LG is garbage IM not going to run to return all my plasmas and LCD's becasue i got a 1st gen cell phone that had a bad chrager port! Anyways thanks for the Advice with the ford test i did a quick version of it yesterday but i need to acutally rip some of these wires down and make sure there connected my first test is the TPS and IAC And i really do think my alt has a big deal in this day time i ride the bat is at 14v then as soon as the engine stalls or is turned off (stalls more than its turned off) the bat drops down to 12 withiin seconds and if i roll any windows down it will got down to 10 or 8 and while i run at night with lights on its at 12 the whole time engine is running? did have bat tested came out good (i should have rolled windows down before test it wouldnt have passed :) Im giving this beast one more week of testing then im giving in taking it to the GM dealership directly behind my house they want 84 dollars to diagnose the problem! ohh and i just recently paited my truck OD Green doing the camo thing is there any topics on such a thing in this forum?

09-08-2008, 05:26 PM	#27 (permalink)
Co.45 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: pa Posts: 16 OS: vista home	Re: 94 chevy s10 4.3 v6 problems Quick question? Well knowing me it will be long but i fully intended to make it quick before i started typing! I just recently redid my winsheild seal. The track was very rusty had to do it and like i said above im cheap so i did it myself went through without a problem outside of scrapping and sanding down all the rust in the track! cost me 6 dollars for the tube of poly and i had sand paper left over from the paint job i just did! a tad bit cam trhough in one spot front right passanger side (top right) so that would explain a little bit of the smell? but two days ago i figured out that i have been a complete idiot ever since i first got this truck i think im going on 5 weeks now i put in a referbed digital dash console that is great i only paid 60 dollars for and its covered for life! when i was doing that i pulled my dash around the steering wheel out including the hvac controls ( 94 S10 blazer tahoe lt) when i pulled them out it was really tight i mean i had to pull with alot of force on the vacum lines connecting to it to give me some room to squeeze my hand in there! anyways after that i put everything back together and it works like a dream (the dash that is) the hvac control knob on the right (chooses ac vent defrost and off) wouldnt slide down into the off position and i assumed i messed it up and thought it was off i just meessed it up well two days ago i got frustrated playing with it and banged it down with alot of force and it went into off and made that noise vacum letting go! so that was cool that i was driving around in my truck for id say 3-4 weeks with the ac that doesnt work in the first place on max ac! so now im running the same but the truck is letting off this terrible smell almost like burning plastic?? sorta smells like its coming from the underbody but i got under it and smelled everything same with compartment double checked no vac lines or electrical where touching and it seems good but im still smelling that smell ? only thing i could think of is some of the old sealant from the windsheild fell into that little vent looking thingy right there below the winsheild (on the outside) i know some did but i didnt think it would make that big of a stink?? Any Ideas!! ?? Sorry for it being so long i feel if i include the whole story then your better prepaired to assist.