under the "it's always something" theory

Raylo · 06-27-2008, 02:45 PM

Yet aother issue with my 4.3L CPI S10 4x4 pickup. I post this not looking for support but as a heads-up to the many here that have this motor or similar GM. I recently installed a new a/c compressor and condenser. No problem there. Of course I had to drain and remove the radiator to get at the condenser. After I was totally done with the job I went to pour the old antifreeze into bottles to take to recycle and what did see? After sitting there for several days a whole lot of oil had separated and risen to the surface. Just lovely. I quickly surmised that it probably was the oil cooler built into one of the rad side tanks leaking. Whilst at Avance Auto getting a flush connector and some oil one of the guys asked me if I needed help. I told him about my problem and he said "you must have a Chevy. Tahoes, Yukons Blazers all do that". Blazer/S10... same difference.

I haven't noticed any coolant in the oil but then I haven't exactly been looking. But I have had slightly higher than normal oil consumption. So new radiator going in this evening to be quickly followed by oil change. It really IS always something. You folks with GM radiators w/built-in oil coolers keep this in mind.

mercedesman · 06-30-2008, 04:00 PM

alot of the time we find that the intake gasket is leaking on these type cars and trucks and it allows oil into the cooling system the gaskets usally leak at the left rear corner (looking at the engine ) and at the right front corner under the ac compressor this more of a common problem with the 4.3 engines than the radaitor oil cooler

Raylo · 07-01-2008, 03:14 AM

Thanks for the input. I am also replacing the intake manifold gaskets to be sure. That is where I have got myself in a bind with the knock sensor. Pulling the harness for interference I managed to break the knock sensor tip whilst removing the connector and now can't figure out how to remove the sensor to replace. Turning the 22mm hex just makes the insides spin around in the housing. Looks like I need to use something on the housing like a pipe wrench or ????? Here is a pic of the new part and you can see how it appears to be crimped around the perimeter. That's where it spins.

http://www.partsamerica.com/productd...pe=412&PTSet=A

Please let me know if you have any experience or suggestions with this piece.

dcraker · 07-01-2008, 07:19 AM

ah, I do have some experience replacing that, in fact two of them for my 95 Pontiac Bonneville.
Only one of them spun, but what I did end up doing? I think I used a Flat head and hammer to make more crimped areas around it, beat the outside of the body as much as I could to cram it in further.

But I think in the end I used whatever I could fit on the outside of the body like channel-locks, get it loose, then I used a modified deep socket to get it out.
All I can say, is good luck.

note: modified deep socket was cut down to size, due to area space, and still had to be deep enough to fit over the connector remains.

Raylo · 07-01-2008, 11:14 AM

That's what I am thinking... channelocks. But I think the key to to this is the factory parts were put on with red loctite. I just looked at a new KS at the Chevy dealer and the bolt was generously coated with the red. I am hoping that my micro butane torch might make this doable. Did you use heat?

dcraker · 07-01-2008, 11:49 AM

No heat was used, the red loctite only aids in better hold for heavy shock and vibration to prevent it from coming out on it's own. It doesn't take much to break it loose, once that is done, then you can easily use a socket (provided that you can fit one) to get the rest of it out.

I did see that they say you can use heat and handtool to remove, but I didn't use any heat other that what outside temperature was when I did this in July '07 in Idaho

06-27-2008, 02:45 PM	#1 (permalink)
Raylo Registered User Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Maryland, USA Posts: 289 OS: XP Desktop, Vista HP Notebook, XP Notebook	under the "it's always something" theory Yet aother issue with my 4.3L CPI S10 4x4 pickup. I post this not looking for support but as a heads-up to the many here that have this motor or similar GM. I recently installed a new a/c compressor and condenser. No problem there. Of course I had to drain and remove the radiator to get at the condenser. After I was totally done with the job I went to pour the old antifreeze into bottles to take to recycle and what did see? After sitting there for several days a whole lot of oil had separated and risen to the surface. Just lovely. I quickly surmised that it probably was the oil cooler built into one of the rad side tanks leaking. Whilst at Avance Auto getting a flush connector and some oil one of the guys asked me if I needed help. I told him about my problem and he said "you must have a Chevy. Tahoes, Yukons Blazers all do that". Blazer/S10... same difference. I haven't noticed any coolant in the oil but then I haven't exactly been looking. But I have had slightly higher than normal oil consumption. So new radiator going in this evening to be quickly followed by oil change. It really IS always something. You folks with GM radiators w/built-in oil coolers keep this in mind.

06-30-2008, 04:00 PM	#2 (permalink)
mercedesman Registered User Join Date: Feb 2006 Posts: 9 OS: xp pro	Re: under the "it's always something" theory alot of the time we find that the intake gasket is leaking on these type cars and trucks and it allows oil into the cooling system the gaskets usally leak at the left rear corner (looking at the engine ) and at the right front corner under the ac compressor this more of a common problem with the 4.3 engines than the radaitor oil cooler

07-01-2008, 03:14 AM	#3 (permalink)
Raylo Registered User Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Maryland, USA Posts: 289 OS: XP Desktop, Vista HP Notebook, XP Notebook	Re: under the "it's always something" theory Thanks for the input. I am also replacing the intake manifold gaskets to be sure. That is where I have got myself in a bind with the knock sensor. Pulling the harness for interference I managed to break the knock sensor tip whilst removing the connector and now can't figure out how to remove the sensor to replace. Turning the 22mm hex just makes the insides spin around in the housing. Looks like I need to use something on the housing like a pipe wrench or ????? Here is a pic of the new part and you can see how it appears to be crimped around the perimeter. That's where it spins. http://www.partsamerica.com/productd...pe=412&PTSet=A Please let me know if you have any experience or suggestions with this piece. Last edited by Raylo : 07-01-2008 at 03:15 AM.

07-01-2008, 07:19 AM	#4 (permalink)
dcraker Registered User Join Date: Jan 2008 Posts: 62 OS: Windows 2000	Re: under the "it's always something" theory ah, I do have some experience replacing that, in fact two of them for my 95 Pontiac Bonneville. Only one of them spun, but what I did end up doing? I think I used a Flat head and hammer to make more crimped areas around it, beat the outside of the body as much as I could to cram it in further. But I think in the end I used whatever I could fit on the outside of the body like channel-locks, get it loose, then I used a modified deep socket to get it out. All I can say, is good luck. note: modified deep socket was cut down to size, due to area space, and still had to be deep enough to fit over the connector remains. __________________ Thanks, David If you cover it in chocolate, it'll look better.

07-01-2008, 11:14 AM	#5 (permalink)
Raylo Registered User Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Maryland, USA Posts: 289 OS: XP Desktop, Vista HP Notebook, XP Notebook	Re: under the "it's always something" theory That's what I am thinking... channelocks. But I think the key to to this is the factory parts were put on with red loctite. I just looked at a new KS at the Chevy dealer and the bolt was generously coated with the red. I am hoping that my micro butane torch might make this doable. Did you use heat?

07-01-2008, 11:49 AM	#6 (permalink)
dcraker Registered User Join Date: Jan 2008 Posts: 62 OS: Windows 2000	Re: under the "it's always something" theory No heat was used, the red loctite only aids in better hold for heavy shock and vibration to prevent it from coming out on it's own. It doesn't take much to break it loose, once that is done, then you can easily use a socket (provided that you can fit one) to get the rest of it out. I did see that they say you can use heat and handtool to remove, but I didn't use any heat other that what outside temperature was when I did this in July '07 in Idaho __________________ Thanks, David If you cover it in chocolate, it'll look better.