FAQ

I use the beam type torque wrench to tighten the wheel nut. But I have to use a deep socket in order to clear the wheel. It calls for 100 ft-lb torque for a 92 aerostar. There is no way I can do it because it gets so tight when it reaches 50-60 ft-lb. Does the length of the deep socket which is 3" long affect the required torque?

BBF2530

Hi FAQ. No, a deep socket should not affect the correct operation of a torque wrench.

Are you gripping and applying pressure out at the end of the wrench handle, where you can apply the most "torque" (the proper way)?

If you are, then perhaps your wrench is no longer calibrated properly?

I would try another torque wrench, if you can borrow one.

Good luck.

FAQ

Thanks BBF2530. Yes, I pull from the hand grip only. The torque wrench is brand new. First I bought a fancy click type, but there was no click and the nut was tight. I returned it and bought a cheapo beam type, that was where I was at now. Maybe it doesn't call for 100 ft-lb, but I searched the internet, it called for 100 ft-lb for all Ford. Could it be right? Anyone?

BBF2530

Hi FAQ. Hmmmm, strange. Are you also using an extension, along with the deep socket? If you are, perhaps it is not a high quality extension, and it has too much flex?

I use a good quality click type, and have never had a problem. Odd that you would have a problem with two different (and different types) of torque wrenches.

Foolish question, but I have to ask, are you sure you are reading the settings correctly?

Concerning the recommended torque settings: No, all Fords are not 100 ft-lb. However, they are relatively close to that number. For example, I have two Fords and one has a recommended setting of 94, the other is 100.

If I come up with any other ideas I'll let you know.

Good luck!

FAQ

Thanks again. I didn't use any extension with the deep socket at all. I only pushed or pulled at the handle. With the click type, I locked the setting at 100 ft-lb. With the beam type, I watched the needle like a hawk. Maybe I didn't do it right. Do I tighten the nut in one last stroke without stopping? But the click type has ratcheting action? Or does it matter.

Please, BBF2530 tell me how you do it. Maybe I can learn a few tricks from you.

BBF2530

Hi FAQ. Well, as I stated, I use a good quality click type.

It is really pretty simple. You set the Torque Wrench for the recommended ft-lbs, then you tighten the nuts clockwise until you begin to get close to the point of proper tightness (you just get a feel for it).

When you are at the point where you are very close to the proper tightness, you want the handle of the Torque Wrench to be at approximately the 3 O'Clock position. This is so that you are pushing down on the wrench handle for the final stroke (it gives you the most control).

I like to pretty much stay in the 2 O'Clock to 4 O'Clock range even when early in the tightening process. Again, I feel it gives me maximum control.

The last few strokes, you want to extremely slowly increase pressure until you feel and hear the click. As soon as it "clicks" immediately release all force from the wrench handle, as you are now at the proper torque, and you are done. Again, you essentially want the handle to be between the 2:30-3:30 position for the last 4-5 strokes. Again, this gives you maximum control of the Torque Wrench.

If any stroke brings you past the 3:30 position without a click, just ratchet the handle back to the 2:30 to 3:00 position again.

For a beam or gauge type, you essentially do the same, it is just a bit more difficult, as you need to apply that steadily increasing force to the wrench handle while also watching the gauge on the Torque Wrench.

Personally, I would return the beam type for a good ratcheting "Click Type", like you first had.

I hope my explanation is clear. If not, feel free to ask any questions.

Good luck!

FAQ

Thanks for the instructions. It will be of great help later on. I gave up on the front two tires by re-tightening it after a few days of driving. It should be ok according to my experience. I bought the torque wrench was to eliminate the re-tightening step. LOL :) because it doesn't help at the moment. I'll wait for the snow to come before I put the snow tires on the rear. Then I can use the instructions. Thanks again.

BBF2530

Hello again, FAQ. If I am reading your last post correctly, you say that after driving your vehicle a few days, you have to re-tighten your lug nuts? If I understood correctly, then either your torque wrench is defective, or you are not reading/using it properly. It sounds as though you are under-torquing (under-tightening) them.

While it is always a good idea to re-check the lug nuts (after a wheel/tire change) for proper torque after a day or so of driving, this should only need to be done once. And if torqued properly, they should not be loose.

It really is merely a precautionary measure. If lug nuts are installed properly, they really should not be backing out. If they are, there is definitely a problem.

Good luck.

FAQ

Hello BBF2530, the re-tightening step is merely a precautionary measure when I don't have a torque wrench before. It is only done once with little or no adjustment.

When I used the torque wrench, I loosened all wheel nuts first according to the manual. I knew that 60 ft-lb was too tight because when I loosened them all to recheck, I had to use much more force than before and heard grinding metal noise when the nut was loosened. Do you hear grinding metal noise when the nut was loosened when you do yours?