1994 Ford Tempo Brakes

Tumbleweed · 09-06-2007, 05:49 PM

My daughters 1994 Ford Tempo is having an issue with Brakes. I initially changed the pads on the front axles, bled the brakes, and all of sudden all i get is spongy brakes that only lock up the right front wheel. So being a parts changer not a mechanic I changed the front calipers, the master cylinder bench bled the master cylinder rebled all the brakes and the crazy thing is the Passenger Rear and Driver Front brakes during the bleed do not drop the brake pedal to the floor nor do they expel the amount of brake fluid the passenger front and driver brakedo. The brakes remain extremely spongy and still do not stop the car. I am at a loss. can anyone help?

**manic** · 09-06-2007, 08:48 PM

When bleeding you should start from the back passenger wheel, then
the back driver side, then the passenger front, then driver front.
Basically starting from the farthest point from the master cylinder.
Forcing the air systematically through the lines. You probably have
a air bubble trapped somewhere in between. I believe there is a
proportioning valve, think thats what its called, that may be clogged
or has a air bubble trapped. Is that four wheel disk or shoe brakes in
the rear? If shoe in the rear how does the wheel cylinders look, are
they dry or wet and spongy? Kinda rare for a proportioning valve to
go bad, not even sure if that vehicle has one, might have a issue with
air in the master cylinder. Good luck post back, got me curious.

**qldit** · 09-09-2007, 06:26 AM

Good Evening Tumbleweed, your problem seems very odd, you can expect similar flow from all the bleed nipples, I would try removing the bleed nipples completely and seeing if the flow is proper and the pedal bottoms with them out, separately.
The nipples may be partially clogged.

The rear and front brake circuits should be separate, but the pedal should still bottom on both circuits.

When you bleed the brakes, use your hand to press the pedal, don't apply too much pressure (it tends to breakup trapped air) and ensure the pedal returns fully for ten seconds or so before repeating the process. Sometimes aging master cylinders can suck air rather than replenish properly from the reservoir.

As manic suggests, bleed the furthest point first and work from there to the closest point from the M/C.

Spongy-ness is usually only caused by air and can cause erratic non-symmetrical braking.
If you have changed your calipers ensure the connecting hoses have no sign of chafing or weepage.

If the vehicle has rear drum brakes, it is a good idea to adjust the handbrake and brake system properly before starting bleeding.

When you complete the work, try the low pressure test, (no engine running) apply light foot pressure and retain that as if you were slowing down, the pedal should not progress further over a five minute period.
This is just a test for master cylinder sealing leakage internally, often older master cylinders suffer from pedal creep.

Cheers, qldit.

09-06-2007, 05:49 PM	#1 (permalink)
Tumbleweed Registered User Join Date: Sep 2007 Posts: 1 OS: xp	1994 Ford Tempo Brakes My daughters 1994 Ford Tempo is having an issue with Brakes. I initially changed the pads on the front axles, bled the brakes, and all of sudden all i get is spongy brakes that only lock up the right front wheel. So being a parts changer not a mechanic I changed the front calipers, the master cylinder bench bled the master cylinder rebled all the brakes and the crazy thing is the Passenger Rear and Driver Front brakes during the bleed do not drop the brake pedal to the floor nor do they expel the amount of brake fluid the passenger front and driver brakedo. The brakes remain extremely spongy and still do not stop the car. I am at a loss. can anyone help?

09-06-2007, 08:48 PM	#2 (permalink)
manic Mod Hardware Team Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Florida Posts: 5,254 OS: xp	Re: 1994 Ford Tempo Brakes When bleeding you should start from the back passenger wheel, then the back driver side, then the passenger front, then driver front. Basically starting from the farthest point from the master cylinder. Forcing the air systematically through the lines. You probably have a air bubble trapped somewhere in between. I believe there is a proportioning valve, think thats what its called, that may be clogged or has a air bubble trapped. Is that four wheel disk or shoe brakes in the rear? If shoe in the rear how does the wheel cylinders look, are they dry or wet and spongy? Kinda rare for a proportioning valve to go bad, not even sure if that vehicle has one, might have a issue with air in the master cylinder. Good luck post back, got me curious. __________________

09-09-2007, 06:26 AM	#3 (permalink)
qldit TSF Gearhead Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Brisbane Australia. Posts: 592 OS: All Systems, mainly Linux	Re: 1994 Ford Tempo Brakes Good Evening Tumbleweed, your problem seems very odd, you can expect similar flow from all the bleed nipples, I would try removing the bleed nipples completely and seeing if the flow is proper and the pedal bottoms with them out, separately. The nipples may be partially clogged. The rear and front brake circuits should be separate, but the pedal should still bottom on both circuits. When you bleed the brakes, use your hand to press the pedal, don't apply too much pressure (it tends to breakup trapped air) and ensure the pedal returns fully for ten seconds or so before repeating the process. Sometimes aging master cylinders can suck air rather than replenish properly from the reservoir. As manic suggests, bleed the furthest point first and work from there to the closest point from the M/C. Spongy-ness is usually only caused by air and can cause erratic non-symmetrical braking. If you have changed your calipers ensure the connecting hoses have no sign of chafing or weepage. If the vehicle has rear drum brakes, it is a good idea to adjust the handbrake and brake system properly before starting bleeding. When you complete the work, try the low pressure test, (no engine running) apply light foot pressure and retain that as if you were slowing down, the pedal should not progress further over a five minute period. This is just a test for master cylinder sealing leakage internally, often older master cylinders suffer from pedal creep. Cheers, qldit.