TITT4TATT

it seems their are a couple of way's to doing this

method one way says to pump brake peddle several times,'tighten the brake nipple every time brake peddle is depressed to the floor board,before releasing the brake pedal' [cylinder nipple connected to plastic tube immersed in brake fluid oil]

method 2 is the same accept, I' don't haft to close the nipple every time I' press the brake peddle up and down, I' close the brake cylinder nipple when no air is present in the clear plastic hose

is method 2 acceptable ?

I don't see the point in closing the wheel cylinder nipple every time the brake peddle is released,if I' have it immersed in brake fluid oil

8210GUY

Anything to do with brakes requires exactness or it could cost lives, with that said the way you worded it I would say NO, as you rightly say there are 2 methods (unless your a garage with the right gear), the first as you describe requires opening the bleed valve then pressing down firmly on the brake pedal and holding it there until the nipple is tightened again, when it is you can release the peddle, if you release before the nipple is closed you will suck air back into the system, you repeat this until no more air shows then move onto the next bleeding point checking and topping up the reservoir as needed every so many pumps on the brake pedal or again if it gets to low you will be back to square one again.

Now the other method (which is what I think you meant to describe above) requires pouring brake fluid into the bleed jar as well as the above guide for the reservoir, I suggest maybe a third of a jar and be ready to top it up if needed telling the driver to halt until your ready again, then insert the hose into it and make sure it NEVER comes to a point where fluid is not comfortably covering the end of the bleed hose, failure to do so will result in air being sucked back into the system and making you start over, then as per above when no more air close the nipple while the hose it still immersed, then repeat for each bleeding point in turn until finished, this is a valid method and works, so long as you NEVER let the tube become exposed to air at any point while the nipple is open.

And don't forget, there is an exact order that you must do this or you will be wasting your time so check your manual for that before starting, I also suggest if using method 1 or 2 that you devise a clear signal of commands to each other (brakes are a 2 person job), I suggest the person on the brakes says "down" then the driver respond with down, and hold it there until the person on the brakes says "up" then the driver confirms back "up" and repeat every time so the person on the brakes is in control as only they will know when the nipple is open or closed, it can be a tricky job, I also suggest caution when you first start it up and drive after to test the brakes in a safe way and area until you are certain the breaks are responding correctly, and don't forget brake fluid will damage paintwork, so if you spill any wash it off as soon as you can afterwards.

Midnight Tech

Also...bleeding an antilock system opens up a whole new can of worms....see if you can find a shop manual for your car.

TITT4TATT

thanks for the response

unfortunately theres no reference in my repair manual that states "when replacing the brake shoes make sure master cylinder as well as wheel cylinders don't go beyond a certain point or the rubber seal will crack"!

I' could have avoided all this headache if the O.M. that I' bought mentioned this 2 cents of advice!

warning,buy this retainer device for your brake cylinders so you don't cause $500 in brake damages to your master cylinder or brake cylinders!

albeit to damage the M.S. you mustn't depress the brake pedal beyond it's normal range of motion.

Midnight Tech

What kind of car is it?

TITT4TATT

1999 chevrolet cavalier

Midnight Tech

I'll see if I can find out proper procedure for your car Thursday.

Bearcamp

Another way that works (takes a little time) is to fill the master cylinder and leave the cap off. Open up the bleeders on the rear axle until you have a steady flow of fluid. Keep an eye on the fluid level in the cylinder. Close the bleeders and repeat on the front. Anothe ris with a vac pump. You actually sucking the air out. We used the vac way quite a few times when buliding street rods as alot of the master cylinders are at or below floor level. Also whenever bleeding by pumping, you should start at the wheel that is the furtherest away from the cylinder to the closest.

Midnight Tech

Bear's got it...do the right rear, then left rear, then right front, then left front. If there is a bleeder on the ABS unit, bleed it last.
Sometimes on ABS systems however, if this doesn't work, they may have to be bled with the assistance of a scan tool...which cycles the ABS unit to purge the air.