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Old 01-09-2009, 10:00 AM   #12 (permalink)
SABL
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Galena, Ohio
Posts: 937
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Re: Mechanica, Electrical, Plumbing and Structural

Thanks Donald the pics really caused problems with my browser. They are easier to view now I had the same problem in the auto support group, had a hard time with the pics.

Hi Mack1

Sam is an acquired taste..... it is a real heavy beer. I only started drinking it about 7-8 yrs ago because one of my sons wanted the bottles for homebrew. If you didn't care for Sam, don't even try AB American Ale. That is the only other beer that is close to Sam. If you want a real jolt go for the Guiness Xtra Stout

Feel free to join in.... I am not all knowing and seeing. I am a team player, there is no I in team. I have worked with many that had I problems when things went well but shifted to they when things went not so well. I am the opposite.... I shift to I when things go wrong with a project and others are involved.

Lee

Back to the pics

First issue is to determine the presence of any footer under the planters and how far below the grade they might be. You could try a metal rod (3-4 ft long) and a sledge hammer, driving the rod along side the block and seeing how far you get before the rod hits the footer. You can use any suitable method, but you must determine if and where a footer exists.

The steel columns will not go very far past the soffit (ceiling) and should be supporting a "header" which (from looking at it) will be 2 2X8's at minimum.

There seems to be no problem with roof support, if the planters are on solid footing. I would knock the planters down to "grade" on the outside and below grade inside the mudroom. I"m still studying the pics.... your roof and the planters are offset from each other. Notice the position of the columns on the planters Looks like a minor miscalculation...BFD. Just have to find a solution without replacing the roof.

The sag in the slab indicates lack of footing....very common. If the planters are on footers (viable footers) they will have to be bridged with a connecting footer between them, along with being "pinned" with rebar at the connecting points. You don't want floating footers!! Tie everything together to prevent drywall cracking and trim separation... the foundation and framing make the job.

The rear porch doesn't even appear to be 6:1.... that ratio would provide a 2" drop per 12" run. I might have looked at it wrong, but it looks like it follows the slab which should be 3/8" per foot for drainage. The main roof looks to be above a 2/12 pitch.... maybe 3 or 4 inch rise per foot. That's not much and the framing will be bigger than normal to carry a snow load. It looks like you have 2X8 rafters to compensate for any snow. I'm only going by looks.... another consolation is the era in which your house was built. The framing lumber was larger back then... the nominal sizes stayed the same but the net dimensions were reduced in the early '70's.

Let us know what you find on the planter issue and footers... I'm still pondering the back porch
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