mack1

Hi Vince,
I'm kindly like cardoc in that I think you should be able to fix the problem, though he didn't say it that way. Here's my thought patterns when I read your first post. It started backfiring after a car wash. "Probably mosture in the distributer cap", but just under that, you said that you had replaced the distributor (and other ignition parts). Since it backfired and the distributor was OK, must have been something else that caused it to fire at the wrong time. (fuel is OK, or it wouldn't have been able to backfire) "It must be timing", so the timing chain between the crank shaft and the camshaft must be off (chain slipped or stripped plastic gears). Now, I hear that the chain and timing marks between the chain and gears are in alignment according to the marks on the chain and gears mesh up. (I was going to apologize for not telling you about the marks on the chain and gears, but you seem to have known)'"good show".
That being the case, I then get to wondering if when you installed the new distributor, did you make sure that the gears between the distributor and the camshaft matched such that it was in time. Don't know about your vehicle, but they normally have to be meshed in such that when the rotation caused by the angled gears(distributor and camshaft) end up with the rotory button pointing to the right position when the distributor is bottoms out. Your posts suggest that you are on top of that situation, again "good show".

Now, there is a couple of things that are true that might not have been addressed as yet. Can't say about your car, but on a little later models, the computer tells the distributor when to fire each cylinder. It gets it engine position signal from a sensor located at the front of the engine that looks at a gear mounted on the camshaft. It senses when #1 cylinder reaches near top dead center and initiates a fire #1 plug signal based on that signal. Other signals follow until all is fired, then it looks for #1 again. (wider gap or something tells it that it is #1) Could this senosr signal be faulty because of loose or dirty connection or muck on the gear?????? (something is causing the backfire). Then, on your post #23, it sounds like timing is no longer a problem, except it might be a little off.(not backfiring after you got #1 and #2 wires straightened out).

So, if that gets us down to fuel and minor timing adjustments, here is a couple of things to know about fuel supply. When you turn the key from off to on(not start), the fuel pump runs for about 2 seconds. (you can hear this) You will measure the normal pressure with your fuel pressure gauge. May be up to 66 lbs., more or less, depending on your pressure regulator(I don't have a book on your vehicle). With no leaks, that pressure will slowly decrease. (several seconds to reach zero) Now, when you move the key from on to start, the fuel pump is susposed to come on again. (you can't hear this because of the noise of the starter) Put someone under the car to listen for this. If it don't come back on during the time the starter is engaged, it will not start. You might have the the observer to watch the pressure gage instead. Same idea applies.(when starting, the pump should come back on). You mentioned a leaking schrader valve where the pressure gauge attaches. That being the case, I would expect the initial pressure to blead off in just a few seconds, but it should go back up during a start attempt.(remember, the pump comes back on during starting)

If all criterian is met,(compression, ignition, fuel mixture) it should start and sound good when you start the car.

If you want to pay $69 per hour (plus parts) to fix it, go for it. I think you already know enough to fix it. Self confidence is a great thing to have. Ability comes with a little help from friends.

Have a nice day,
Mack1

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